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1998 C43 AMG spark plugs
Hi, all. What is the preferred plug for this car? It has the original plugs with 30,000 miles and 5 years on them. I understand that they should be changed after four years. The original plugs are Bosch F8DPER. A local M-B dealer says to use F8DPP332 plugs. The Bosch website lists 4301 and 4418 as alternatives to the F8DPP322 but does not list the F8DPER. Any guidance will be appreciated.
Also, how in the heck do you get access to change the plugs? The job looks to be a real knuckle buster. TIA.
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Dan 1998 C43 |
#2
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F8DPP332
F8DPER http://www.landiss.com/boschplugs.htm I tried to attach the chart, but its too big of file size.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#3
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Just go with what the parts dept says is correct, MB did change their mind a few times on the 112/113 engine spark plugs.
It can be a tough job, usually you want to start by removing the air filter box, and also the one screw retaining each coil to the valve cover. There is a special tool "wrench" that is recommended for removing the coil wires from the plugs. Yes, I bet that 113 really is wedged in there. Gilly |
#4
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Thank you for the information.
Gilly: The original plugs, F8DPER, are Bosch Supers with one side wire. I understand the F8DPP332 is a dual side wire plug. The 4418 is a Platunum +4 and costs about one-half as much as the F8DPP332. The 4301 is a Platinum2 also dual side wire. Are they acceptable substitutes?
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Dan 1998 C43 |
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This is my first experience with M-B. So, please be patient as I get up-to-speed.
How do you remove the air filter housing? Is it disconnected from the MAF sensor and remove in its entirety? If so, how is it disconnected? Or, does one remove the many small screws and remove only the top half of the housing? Thanks again.
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Dan 1998 C43 |
#6
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Unclip the top of the airfilter box itself , then I believe the wire is disconnected from the mass airflow meter, and the trim can be unsnapped. I don't believe you have to remove any of the screws. Atmittedly the C43 is rather rare, it may help to post a picture of the underhood area, unless a C43 owner can step up and give better advice.
GO with the plugs MB currently recommends, I don't recommend substituting. Gilly |
#7
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Hi, Gilly. Well, I figured out how to remove the air filter housing:
1. Remove the front trim piece. 2. Disconnect the two intake tubes from the housing and move aside. 3. Apply a little vinyl/rubber conditioner to the four rubber buttons. 4. Take a deep breath (since this is the first time) and gently but firmy lift the housing upward. Voila! It lifts right off. 5. Be very careful that nothing falls into the MAF sensor. You don't have to fuss with the MAF. Replacing the housing is easier: 1. Clean and lube the four rubber buttons with the vinyl/rubber conditioner (you probably could use silicon grease) and the rubber sealing ring that mates to the MAF. 2. Align the housing's clips over the buttons. 3. Push gently downward, the housing just slides into place. 4. Verify that the sealing ring mates properly with the MAF. 5. Reconnect the two intake tubes. 6. Replace the front trim piece. I appreciate your advice on using the recommended plugs. I was shocked that the dealers wanted to charge about $12/plug. I found an on-line warehouse in Redding, CA that sells the same plug for $6/plug. I've not dealt with them previously so I'll provide folks with the URL if the transaction has no problems.
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Dan 1998 C43 |
#8
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Thanks for posting that. Admittedly the C43 is a fairly rare machine, and I've only seen them at the new auto shows (and even that's been awhile). Sounds like the engine trim is more along the lines of the V8's used say in the S Class, I was thinking more like the ML.
GLAD you got the correct plugs at half-price, that's what I call win-win. They don't change recommendations on sparkplugs just on a whim, must be a valid reason somewhere. Gilly |
#9
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Hi, Gilly. Well I finally replaced the 16 plugs in the C43. Momma, what a job! Three hours (but that included a walk to the gas station to blow out the air filters) and three skinned knuckles. In addition to the coils you also have to move the windshield washer tank out of the way. The hardest part of the job was pulling the plug caps. I guess I did not have the proper tool, only the pliers type of puller. Well, I lubed the insulators with silicon grease. Hopefully, they will be easier to remove in five years.
I bought the plugs from warehouseauto parts.com. A good price, and quick, friendly service.
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Dan 1998 C43 |
#10
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So Cylocross,
You used the Bosch F8DPP332 plug, not the original right? Any difference in the motor now? Why not change the wires at the same time? Thanks WTS |
#11
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Quote:
The F8DPER looks like a conventional non-platinum plug even though it says "platin" on the insulator. The F8DPP332 looks like a platinum plug with the small diameter center electrode and one side wire. The end of the side wire appears to have a small "dot" opposite the center electrode. I assume the dot is Pt as well. I have not noticed any difference in the motor. Note: the original plugs had only 30,000 miles on them. The wires appear to be integral with the coilpacks and not replaceable. They looked to be in good shape so I left them as-is. The coilpacks are about $120/each. If the wires are replaceable, I'd sure like to know that. Thank you for asking.
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Dan 1998 C43 |
#12
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I think the wires will come off the coil packs just fine. I'd leave them alone though, FWIW.
Gilly
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