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  #16  
Old 07-13-2015, 02:18 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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So a polyurethane filled aftermarket motor mount was still able to collapse? Bizarre.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2015, 08:44 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 262
Design of the subframe allows it.. Under the mount is a large hole. I'd say the filler just separated from the mount.

I'm going to pull the subframe over the winter most likely and if those holes are not to access a bolt, etc.. Then they will be getting plated over.

-Chris
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2015, 09:48 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ooltewah, TN
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Awesome work so far...enjoying following your progress!
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  #19  
Old 07-24-2015, 11:47 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 262
Made some progress finally...

Got the seals in the injection pump replaced and my fuel leak persisted. The pump's seals were shot so no wasted time/money there... but the main leak was coming from the lift pump.

Pulled the lift pump and the IP was FULL of diesel fuel. After quite a bit of digging, finally found all the bosch part numbers and got everything in. I didnt take any pics of disassembly, but here are some shots of it going back together. I also posted a full break down and part numbers for this lift pump in the "Vintage" forum.

Reinstalling the roller plunger.


Plunger installed with new Viton o-ring (cause for the IP being full of fuel.. push the plunger and fuel sprayed out of the back of the lift pump)




Spring & Cup..




New crush washers




Valves and o-rings




Reassembled with new style hand primer & all Viton o-rings.


I stamped the 10 digit bosch number for the pump onto the tag.

I STRONGLY suggest that anyone that has an engine that has been sitting for any length of time... spend the $35 and rebuild the lift pump before it costs you an injection pump.

Gotta pick up a few 14mm crush washers for the banjo bolts and it should be back up and running tonight.. FINALLY!

-Chris

Last edited by AcIdBuRn; 07-24-2015 at 12:31 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2015, 10:19 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 262
It's back up and running with no leaks and much more power.

The car used to hit a dead spot much over 2000 rpm.. Almost like a governor pulling fuel. Now it pulls all the way up and is much more pleasant to drive. $50 well spent (after buying the kits and extra seals)

-Chris
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  #21  
Old 07-26-2015, 03:48 PM
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Posts: 262
Update..

Car is running really good thus far since the lift pump change..


Got around to installing my junkyard front seats... they still need to be recovered but they look and feel much better then the junk that was there before.

Old..


New..


And as it sits...



Still have some major wiring issues to sort out. Everything in the car works except the alternator. I changed the voltage regulator hoping that would fix it... no such luck. I'll be ordering a Saab 120amp alternator sometime this week.

I also need to find out what all the relays/fuses do. Ive been seeing a lot of mixed information.

I did give it some W90 to drink... 50/50 W90 and D2. Runs great on it thus far with no excess hazing, etc. I plan to pick up a small fuel cell, maybe 5 gallon or so, to mount in the trunk for straight pump diesel so all cold running and shutdowns will be on diesel fuel. I'll also switch it up from tank to tank to keep coking at a minimum.

Anyways...
-Chris
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2015, 12:19 PM
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Posts: 262
More updates...

Car has been running great but electrical gremlins have sidelined it until the weekend.

The alternator has been dead since I bought it so I picked up a Saab 115amp alternator for it which I'll hopefully get swapped tonight.

I also need to pull apart the fuse blocks and clean all of the electrical contacts. I'm having issues with the power windows working when they want to... temp and fuel gauges fluctuating at times... sometimes the fuel gauge wont come up at all. Sender and wiring look to be in good shape.

I pulled all the main grounds and cleaned them up.. cleaned all of the fuse sockets and added a ground strap to the gauge cluster... still no change.

I figure I'll take some time this weekend and disassemble the fuse blocks and clean them really well and go from there.

Getting very tempted to just pick up a universal atc fuse block and rewire the car... wouldnt be too hard and would most likely eliminate all of the 40yr old wiring issues. Problem is I'm not sure about using the oem switches and controls...

More to come.
-Chris
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  #23  
Old 08-07-2015, 12:26 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 262
Got the new alternator installed... this thing is massive compared to the old unit. Was a tight fit but it works and was cheaper then the stock replacement for the MB...





Snug fit...


Still need to run an additional 8g feed from the alternator to the battery... but with just the stock wiring hooked up, its charging and the battery light is now working as it should.

When I pulled the stock alternator, all sorts of little parts fell out.. lol.. Probably why it wasnt working anymore.

More to come... setting up the dual tank system this weekend.
-Chris
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  #24  
Old 08-09-2015, 11:32 PM
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Update..

Got a lot of the little bugs worked out for the time being. Cleaned all of the electrical connections under the hood which sorta helped... Ran a single 8ga. feed from the alternator back to the gp solenoid which is directly to the battery... alternator is working great.

Also got the "dual tank" setup plumbed.. poorman style.

Picked up a 6.5 gallon fuel tank that was designed for a boat. Found it on craigslist for $20.


3/8" hardline to the engine bay where it ties into a greasecar 3 port solenoid...


And looped the return


I thought bleeding the system was going to be a nightmare with no return but oddly enough, it fired right up even full of air... cracked the banjo at the filter housing and it cleaned up. Hasn't shown any signs of air intrusion.. no rough running or hard starting.. etc..

So far, the setup is working great. I cold start and bring it up to temperature on pump diesel which is in the small tank in the trunk. Once up to temp, hit the switch and it goes to the main tank which is running straight w90 (~90% waste oil / 10% gasoline). I also switch back to pump diesel when I'm a few miles from my destination so when I shutdown, its running on pump fuel.

So far, no hard starting.. once up to temp, no haze or smoke. Burns clean and runs great. When on waste oil, the engine runs noticeably smoother but has a bit less power then when on pump diesel (most likely needs a bit more timing). So far, no signs of trouble. It does haze a bit when cold but its done that since day 1 on pump diesel... 0 haze/smoke once at temp on either fuel.

More to come soon... considering the condition of the body and the price I paid for the car.. I'm leaning heavily towards a rally style look when its all said and done.

-Chris
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2015, 12:22 PM
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Hmmm....



This 240d needs more air.

-Chris
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2015, 12:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Is it just the camera angle or is the pulley on the alternator mis-aligned with the water pump pulley? It looks to be a bit behind the pump pulley.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2015, 12:36 PM
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Posts: 262
Optical illusion. Belt is straight in person.
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2015, 06:56 PM
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Location: BC,WA
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I noticed that belt too. Glad its just an optical illusion.. Nice to see the car running well... Did you update to a newer glow plug?
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2015, 10:49 PM
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Not yet. The old ones seem to work good thus far... I glow them for 8-10seconds and it hits instantly.

The only thing that kinda sucks is the "high idle" adjuster on the dash doesn't work so it idles a little rough for a few minutes when it first starts unless I hold the idle up just a little by foot.

Seems to be good thus far.
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  #30  
Old 09-22-2015, 05:13 PM
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Cleaned the injectors.... hoping to cure the slight raw fuel haze that the car has had since I purchased it... Still need to adjust valves and check timing... but anyways..

Before...





During...




Done..





Cleaned (soaked in brake cleaner for 20-30min each, wire brushed, cleaned again with brake clean and lubed with wd-40)... lapped all of the sealing surfaces on flat steel with 2500 grit and wd-40... brass brushed the needle and nozzles... We'll see what happens.

-Chris

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