Hey all,

I don't really know what I'm doing with this build, but I'm doing well enough flying by the seat of my pants. I figured I'd make this thread for any help I might need identifiying little gizmos and whats-its on the om617.

My plan so far is to keep the om617 stock for the swap, and to keep the Toyota body and internals as stock as possible
-Install pyrometer and boost gauge for future use
-Fab some simple engine mounts with a plate of steel and some premade engine mounts like these, with steel stock welded to the frame to attach these to LINK
-Use the MB PS bracket and pump mated to the Toyota PS gearbox, getting rid of the crossover hardlines
-Toyota alt mounted to the MB alt location and modified bracket, using all Toyota wiring
-Toyota starter mated to transfer plate
-No AC since I live in Western WA


I'll update this with pictures and more details as i go along

Howdy all,

I've been working seasonally for two years and living out of my '90 the whole time. Play in the summers, ski in the winters and this fall I had the time to do a major upgrade to the living situation.

Over the years, this low mileage beast has had the standard problems fixed, and now I've got a small budget to do a couple upgrades to make it more liveable. I use it as a snowmobile in the winter, and have a full complement of heavy chains. My first project is to reroute the intake to make room for an army surplus ammo box to be mounted behind the FL headlight. I removed the AC system since it has been dry in the 5 years I've owned it and don't need it in my climate. This freed up some space behind the grill. My plan at the moment is to cut a circle into the frame behind the grill to accommodate a cone filter, remove the radiator overflow, or plumb it to the space next to the battery and windshield wiper fluid, then re configure the stock MAF placement and hosings to fit the box in the engine compartment and free up cab space.

I also found a 12v small diesel boat heater from Planar to heat the area in the winter. Its not planned to be a full time heaters, just mornings and evenings to make it comfortable to sleep and defrost the glass. It will be mounted either in the grill along with the fuel tank where air intake and exhaust will be routed into the AC/heater blower motor box, or infront of the spare tire under the body and will vent up into the drain holes in the floor of the bed. Still waiting for it to arrive and then will fabricate the ducting systems for air and fuel intake and exhaust.

Does anyone have experience doing something similar to the intake mod I have detailed? I've found guides for removing the silencers which is a no brainer, but what is the best way to fabricate or outsource the fabrication of the new intake ducting? Rubber hosing would be awesome because I could do the routing myself.

Here's a picture of the interior at the moment.

Along the course of things, I've decided to preemptively repower the 4runner with a MB OM617.952 engine before I need to do the headgasket again on this crappy 3vze. This is on a '90 4runner with the r150 transmission

Right now, the mission is to get the om617 running in tip top shape outside of the 4runner using a junkyard ignition, starter, and wiring, then extract the 3vze, remove the oil/coolant temp senders and attach them to the block, then drop the mbz in, fab the engine mounts, figure out a radiator solution, wire in a relay for the glow plugs. I'll deal with the tach some time hopefully

Right now, I've got an adapter plate made and installed, oil pan made to deal with steering linkage clearance, oil filter re-locator plate for remote filter to deal with firewall clearance, started on some engine mounts using toyota celica 8359 anchor mounts from a junk yard, started to prep an alternator mount that'll reuse the stock alternator bracket, MB power steering pump should mate to the steering gear box without many headaches and in the stock location on the om617 should allow me to remove the crossover lines that are stock in the 4runner. EGR block off plates are made up. Working on wiring a 12v vacuum actuated solenoid to deal with shutoff. No a/c planned yet.

I've also replaced the plugs, injectors, timing chain, head gasket, adjusted valve clearances, new thermostat, waterpump, replaced some vacuum lines and fuel lines, removed the fuel limiter, cleaned the oily ****er up, installed a pre-turbo pyrometer and intake boost gauge for adjusting boost when its in and running, and have put new gaskets everywhere I can find one to replace.

Down the line, I'll add an a/w intercooler if there is space, might add a hood scoop to deal with clearance (and make it look badass), and once I'm happy with it all, it'll earn the MBZ TURBODIESEL badge

Planning to do the swap in the fall after my USFS field season ends. Until then, I can go ahead with the remote oil filter mount, install the gauges and get them lit, expand the fuel filler neck to accept the standard diesel size.

Here are some crappy cell phone photos of the progress so far.




For the swap, there is a major clearance issue in the engine bay since the om617 is longer than the 3vze by a good deal. People have swapped out the 22re for this engine which has a shorter(w56?) transmission attached and the clearance issue seems to be less in those swaps. To deal with this, I was thinking of finding some drivelines from a similar model year with the W56 transmission and mating them to the transmission and transfer case. Does anyone know if the front or rear driveline from the w56 will mate to the t/case or r150f and pumpkin? I figure that if it does, it would be a great way to not have to pay out the nose in a driveline shop, and that they could simply fab up one driveline instead of both.

I also have the swing out spare tire arm, and was thinking of mounting a radiator remotely under the car to avoid the headaches of trying to jam a radiator and fans into the engine bay. The om617 has a purge tank, so I could use that and don't think that having the radiator mounted flat would be an issue. I would also make a screen using some anti-slip metal walkway tread to protect the radiator from rocks, etc.

some pics from a while back, more to come soon

Well I geuss just you and I are super stoked about this. I am slowly planning a similar swap probably with a pickup though. Ill be keeping an eye out and good luck with all the adapting. There is a pretty sweet pickup on youtube that is inspirational.

Looking good so Far!!!



Also where them pics at??!!??

__________________
1983 240d 5Sp SOLD
1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD
1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD
1984 240d (Executive)SOLD
1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD
1982 300sd SOLD
1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD

How is this project comin along? Where abouts in western washinvton are you?

I'm located in Glacier, wa and will be around puget sound this summer. Swap is done for the most part. Got 4k on the swap at the moment. I lost my phone with a bunch of the along the way photos, but I'm trying to get stuff organized to do a better writeup at some point

Here is a summary of what it took and pictures will be added as I can take them:

-Adapter plate to mate MB om617.952 to Toyota r150

-Bearing adapter
-Redrilled Toyota flyhweel for 8 new MB holes


-modified oil pan for steering linkage clearance (removed steering stabilizer)


-Moved transmission 3in back and made plate for crossmember, cut out space in tunnel for shifters
-Filed down MB AC bracket to mount Toyota V-belt alternator, moved alternator wires to driver side
-Found adapter for PS pump hoses to fit Toyota PS gear box

Very nice.

Did you build your own adapter plate and pilot bushing adapter?

What was the source, or sizes of fittings for the power steering?

Hey man,

I used a 14mm to 16mm adapter listed here

I had to buy 3 of them, so I can send one your way for cost+shipping

The adapter plate I got from joe @ doomsdaydiesel.net

For the vacuum shutoff on the engine, I plumbed a line from the main vacuum pump tubing to supply vacuum to toyota part #90910-12073 and from there to the vacuum shutoff port on the IP with a check valve close to the pump, and a slit cut into the vacuum line to bleed the vacuum off. I wired the VSV into the cigarette lighter 12v+ on. That way, when the car is 'on' the vacuum is closed on the vsv, and when the car is 'off' the port opens and pulls vacuum on the IP, then shortly thereafter, the vacuum is drained from the bleed hole enabling a restart. Plumbing for the line goes to the single port side for the vacuum source, and then the

I ended up culling a bunch of the electrical system the other day, and was left with very little going into the ECU. This diagram shows what was eliminated


Here's some more pictures.

Throttle adapter


Glow plug wiring and placement


A-Pillar gauges


Glow plugs and auxillary switch


Fan relay wiring, stuffed into the fuse box


Repositioned transmission, inside view

Here's some more from the last round of project time


99-04 Mustang hood scoop in ford metallic blue


Centered, templated, and ready to drill


Driled and secured

Your hood scoop turned really good. Do you have any overall pics of the engine compartment?

Also, did you use a body lift to help fit everything in?

Thanks man.

no engine lift to fit everything. the hoodscoop is for an extra .5" clearance for an intercooler

It's good to hear this motor should fit with no body lift.

Did you keep the rear ABS actuator and run the Merc power steering into it, or go straight to the Toyota steering box from the pump?