Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Restoration Projects & Long-Term Builds

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-27-2016, 11:03 PM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
$300 1992 300D Restoration

Found a good sub-forum for this project and this will be the thread with updates and repair on my 1992 300D that runs and drives for a whopping $300.

I found the car a few months ago at a gas station parked on the side of a main road before RT 1. Talked to the owner and he wanted too much, so I passed and came back a few months later and got it for a steal because he was going to scrap it so I gave the price the yard told him. This car was and is too nice to scrap.

Handed the money and got the title. Loaded it on the trailer and got it back to a friends house where it resides while I work on it. It was running really rough and smoking and was stalling out when cold. Had no idea what I was working with until I started poking around. Found lots of water in the main filter, dirty black diesel, and lots of dirt particles and a completely black pre-filter.

The initial plan is to purge the motor, replace the filters, drain the tank, add fresh diesel and see what I'm working with after. It does need new glow plugs and most likely rebuilt injectors. All cylinders have good compression.

It does have a few oil leaks (IP) and a trans cooler leak. I ordered both lines. When I got it running the transmission was bone dry. I'm hoping it wasn't driven too far with no fluid otherwise I'm looking at sourcing a new trans.

Found a ton of broken and disconnected vacuum lines so far, repaired a few and had the transmission shifting a lot better (having fluid helps )

The car needs some rust repair that I will repair as time proceeds and funds. The radiator support is fairly rusted on the pipes at the bottom of the radiator. I'm going to bend pipes of same diameter and weld in new metal.

The rear quarter panel has a patch repair that has some rust underneath on the right rear quarter that I will fix next spring/summer. Looks like a fibreglass repair. Everything else is perfect on this car rust-wise.

Suspension has a little play (tie-rods have play as well as ball joints). Will be replaced in future, still passable inspection wise. The shocks and springs appear to be newer.

The muffler rotted off and needs to be replaced with new hangers/donuts. Sourced an aftermarket for $180 bucks that will do. The rest of the exhaust is perfect and rust-free.

The brakes are about the worst I've ever seen. It's absolutely metal on metal brakes and pads. The rotors are so thin on the front its ridiculous. I've never seen anything like it.

The rear end clunks continually when driving. I'm assuming its a diff mount, subframe mounts or a flex disc that I haven't inspected yet.

The fan clutch squeals terribly and is ridiculously loose. Not safe to drive. I've already had a fan clutch go and the fan break off and taking out a radiator, shroud, and hoses on the highway at 80MPH. Horrible time.

List of items currently to be repaired/replaced:
Rotors & pads front and back.
Muffler replacement.
Re-seal IP
Replace both transmission cooler lines.
Determine cause of PS leak.
Drain fuel tank, replace with fresh diesel.
Purge injectors & IP with 2-3 cans of diesel purge.
Replace glow plugs.
Inspect rear suspension for play & fix clunking.
Replace fan clutch.
Repair radiator support tubes rust.
Get inspected, registered insured and hopefully drive it!

Pictures of this beast:



Will update with more pictures and purge results tomorrow!
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-29-2016, 06:04 AM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
Purge complete and filters replaced.

No more smoke cold start smoke. Runs perfect on diesel purge. Once off the purge, it begins to get noisy and nail again.. I'm gonna converse with greazer and arrange an injector service. Good compression. Best $300 car ever!

Here's the purge bottle.


The pre-filter wouldn't even drain the screen was so clogged.

Pre-filter:


Here's how the car sounded upon purchase. Ran horrible.
https://youtu.be/qJ6vQRImgOA

during purge: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtkSzWsR_4s

post purge:
https://youtu.be/nDZJoHh2Ie4

It does nail as you can hear, but no more smoke.. Still smells like unburnt diesel. After the injector service, this thing should be fine!
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-29-2016, 11:04 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 421
Looking good! Great deal at $300! Wish mine was that cheap...they seem to command a premium in the PNW, as far as I could tell shopping around. It sounds like you already know your way around theses cars pretty good, and know what to look for...I'll be following your progress, as we're sure to have similar issues down the line. In particular, I'm curious to see how your injector service turns out - it's on my short list of planned jobs.

Since you've already done the diesel purge and changed the spin-on and in-line fuel filters, and are planning on draining the tank, I'd recommend changing out the tank filter, as well (or at least cleaning the original). The only thing is, the job requires a big socket, somewhere around 46mm. I know Mercedes Source sells one, for a little less than $40 - but it is the right size, and machined down to be low profile, with a 17mm bolt welded onto the female end so that you can turn it with a wrench or socket in a readily available size. Just FYI. I mean, I'm sure there are other ways one could improvise something, or maybe you already have access to a 3/4 in drive 46mm socket. Anyway, I have a new tank filter in my garage - just waiting on picking up the aforementioned tool, and delaying the hassle of emptying the tank. Will probably do it in conjunction with a diesel purge one of these days, though.

One quick question - what's that cupholder arrangement you have going on in the center console there? Trying to find an elegant solution to the lack of cupholders, as my wife DD's the vehicle and it is important to her.

Thanks, and good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-29-2016, 12:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Carolina
Posts: 1,376
Looking Good! Same color outside as mine. Love my '92! Been working through a lot of the same kind of issues since I've had it. Common to these cars I reckon.
__________________
Current fleet
1992 300D "IceBerg"
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro" Gone on to be born again
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-29-2016, 03:29 PM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Looking Good! Same color outside as mine. Love my '92! Been working through a lot of the same kind of issues since I've had it. Common to these cars I reckon.
They all seem to start having the same problems. This car is a labor of love as I dig around. Lots of oil leaks, lots of small issues and odds and ends. Nothing that can be fixed with time and patience. It's a beautiful color! I'll repaint it one day, but only in certain areas. A buff is going to bring all the paint back.

Bimmer-Bob:
Thanks for the info. I will be ordering that socket, I don't have many sockets that large or 3/4 ratchets or sockets. But everything else.

I'd like to think I know my around decently. They're simple cars to diagnose. Everything is mechanic except the electronic idle speed control. I'm gonna try and clean the filter, or replace it in the tank. I discovered algae in the tank today... It started running crappy again and fuel filters are contaminated so I have to remove the tank and clean it and the filler neck and replace all those hoses.

The cup-holder was a terrible arrangement. A piece of wood cut that looks like Steve Wonder cut and drilled into the center console. Luckily it didn't muck up the console mat too much, but I tore it out and threw it in the trash. I like to rest my arms on the center arm rest. It was all broken too. Looked like it came from the dollar store. Nothing I'd recommend doing.

Cupholders are available, but require drilling the door panel (looks terrible) and aren't stable enough around a turn at like 15-20MPH and you'll lose your beverage anyway. Germans weren't big on cupholders in these cars. The ones in the glovebox are beyond useless.
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-29-2016, 03:31 PM
euroamg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: BC,WA
Posts: 574
Car looks great! I'm sure you'll figure out all the bugs in time.. I also have to do the injectors in my car soon. Bought one of the special tool already injection seals are leaking bad. Looking forward to the progress on the 300d.
__________________
'76 300D '82 230CE
'84 300DT '90 300TE
'91 300D 2.5
'86 300D 5 speed
'86 250D 5 speed
'90 300E 24 '88 560SEC
300TE euro 5 speed X2
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...d6605222-1.jpg

Last edited by euroamg; 11-30-2016 at 03:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-29-2016, 04:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Carolina
Posts: 1,376
Check out tractor supply store if you've got one nearby for the huge socket. Got mine there and a drive adaptor. Can't remember of top of my head what the inch equivalent size is for that but it fits just fine.
__________________
Current fleet
1992 300D "IceBerg"
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro" Gone on to be born again
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-30-2016, 12:19 AM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Check out tractor supply store if you've got one nearby for the huge socket. Got mine there and a drive adaptor. Can't remember of top of my head what the inch equivalent size is for that but it fits just fine.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will take a look and see what I can find in PA. There's got to be somewhere nearby. I live right near business one and I95 with major trucks passing through all the time.

EuroAMG: Thank you! She's a diamond in the rough for sure. The beauty lurks with a true buff, some new headlights and repainting the trunk. A true gentleman's car that is for sure. I will continue to update this! Hopefully more tomorrow. Does the tank strainer have to be removed to get the tank out?
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-30-2016, 03:16 AM
euroamg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: BC,WA
Posts: 574
No need to remove the tank strainer if you want to take out the tank. Just remove the hose connected to it. Might be hard to remove the hose as i recall. Some other members will chime in for the exact procedures for it. I might be wrong..
__________________
'76 300D '82 230CE
'84 300DT '90 300TE
'91 300D 2.5
'86 300D 5 speed
'86 250D 5 speed
'90 300E 24 '88 560SEC
300TE euro 5 speed X2
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i3...d6605222-1.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-30-2016, 03:31 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,329
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Check out tractor supply store if you've got one nearby for the huge socket. Got mine there and a drive adaptor. Can't remember of top of my head what the inch equivalent size is for that but it fits just fine.

46mm = 1 13/16"

The fuel level sender and the fuel tank strainer use the same tool to remove them.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-30-2016, 03:39 AM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,329
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. I will take a look and see what I can find in PA. There's got to be somewhere nearby. I live right near business one and I95 with major trucks passing through all the time.

EuroAMG: Thank you! She's a diamond in the rough for sure. The beauty lurks with a true buff, some new headlights and repainting the trunk. A true gentleman's car that is for sure. I will continue to update this! Hopefully more tomorrow. Does the tank strainer have to be removed to get the tank out?
the tank strainer itself does not need to be removed before taking the tank itself out.

I take the fuel feed flexible hose out of the tank strainer, that is a 19mm hex, you will need to remove the rubber seal that cover's the opening in the chassis, then disconnect the flex hose from the steel fuel line, put the wrench to the flex hose's fitting and remove that. The fitting sticks down about an inch from the bottom of the tank when it's in place, that makes it harder to maneuver the tank itself out.

If the flex hose is in good shape you can reuse it as is if the hose itself is bad or the crimp that secures to to the hose bib fitting is rusted you can cut the crimp of and use a band clamp to secure a new replacement hose to the bib and save $30 for a new replacement. 5/16" fuel rated hose if I recall correctly.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:02 PM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatOne View Post
the tank strainer itself does not need to be removed before taking the tank itself out.

I take the fuel feed flexible hose out of the tank strainer, that is a 19mm hex, you will need to remove the rubber seal that cover's the opening in the chassis, then disconnect the flex hose from the steel fuel line, put the wrench to the flex hose's fitting and remove that. The fitting sticks down about an inch from the bottom of the tank when it's in place, that makes it harder to maneuver the tank itself out.

If the flex hose is in good shape you can reuse it as is if the hose itself is bad or the crimp that secures to to the hose bib fitting is rusted you can cut the crimp of and use a band clamp to secure a new replacement hose to the bib and save $30 for a new replacement. 5/16" fuel rated hose if I recall correctly.
Thank you for the informative response.. I still haven't drained the tank, cleaned the algae, but it is a slow work in progress. That's what makes this project fun anyway. It kills my spare-time boredom.

Update:
Rotella 15W40 Diesel weight oil change with a Hengst filter, new o-rings and seal on the filter housing.

Diagnosed some vacuum issues trans related.

Pressure washed some oil stains to get a better idea of what leaks I'm dealing with.


This is my current list of to-dos:
Replace the delivery valve seals, some fuel seepage.
Have greazzer rebuild the injectors.
Remove, drain, clean fuel tank. Clean or replace tank strainer.
Bypass EGR, clean intake.
Bypass fuel warmer with Kent Bergsma's kit.
Diagnose clunking noise when in gear moving, and clunky downshifts.
By that I plan to inspect, rear diff mounts, flex discs, inspect center support bearing.
Replace front ball joints, very dry rotted and cracked.
Replace brakes all around.
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-09-2016, 11:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 66
Definitely drain the tank, I bought a 240D for a couple hundred bucks. Turns out it was sitting for 5 years.

Once I took car of the tank and filters, thing ran like a champ!

Was your car sitting?
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-09-2016, 05:00 PM
jake12tech's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by danderso View Post
Definitely drain the tank, I bought a 240D for a couple hundred bucks. Turns out it was sitting for 5 years.

Once I took car of the tank and filters, thing ran like a champ!

Was your car sitting?
Yes, it was. Approximately 2 years. Needs the tank removed anyway regardless. Algae contamination.

Will do that next week hopefully. It purrs like a kitten on Diesel purge, so I assume that's how it will run after I re-replace the filters, clean the tank, lines, remove algae and re-nozzle the injectors. It also has a few oil leaks and fuel leaks that need to be attended to.

Main point of oil leaks & fuel leaks are:
2 delivery valves that are always wet
The injectors
IP, the bottom of it is leaking engine oil.
Power steering hose leak and trans cooler pan & gasket.

Nothing serious, but the engine has had leaks in the past. It's the filthiest motor I've ever cleaned.
__________________
1999 E300 220k
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-10-2016, 03:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 66
Good plan! Look forward to the progress!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page