Finally...Combining TWO 1985 300D's - Page 14 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vwnate1 · #**196** 06-19-2018, 11:18 PM

The fuel hose is important to be DIESEL RATED else it will turn to soft mush in a few months .

Just be smart and buy the right stuff, the proper hose clamps are # 12 or 14, I prefer the #12's but they're snug to slide onto the hose .

The clear plastic primary screen (it's NOT a filter) can be removed and blown out backwards if it keeps clogging up . (BT, DT) .

Get some Biobor A.S.A.P. as the fungus is growing and spreading as you're reading this and the car is sitting quietly at the curb .

I hope you know to look in pawn and thrift shops for decent used tools, no need to go all out and buy $pendy Mechanic's kits, just buy a giid box and slowly fill it with the tools you need for each job at hand .

The valve adjust needs the special bent 14MM wrenches plus a 22MM socket and ratchet, 13MM socket and 6" extension, stepped typ feeler gauges, those usually remain unlosd at shops because no one knows what they are anymore so a good KD or Blue Point American made one can be $5 ~ $10 .

Make sure it has both .004" & .014" blades, not all have the .004" .

I helped some guys once in Long Beach, they said thank you by stealing a truck load of tools I happened to have there at that moment and I needed to get back to work Monday so I managed to fully kit out for $1,000 including a battered but still good (50 years later) Kennedy rollaway box on large casters .

Lots of old Craftsman, Japanese and even some Chinese tools now make up my kit, (Alltrade is good Chinese stuff) .

Either way you choose to go is good, I prefer to do my own works and have the tools on hand but you only need what you need .

300Drestoration · #**197** 06-20-2018, 10:32 AM

I have Biobor and main filters arriving soon, will also order some proper diesel fuel hoses and clamps.

Valve adjustment is monday.

So that's three different "factors" i'm addressing.. air leaks, valve out of adjustment, and my fuel system being infected. I'm hoping that if i tackle all of these factors at once it will solve the lumpiness and maybe even improve some performance as well.

I also have some Diesel Additive / Fuel Injection Cleaner on hand that i just got recently. Is it safe to put this in along with the Biobor each time i refill? Or should i focus on the Biobor for several tanks and then get to the additive after that?

I will hold off on tackling the fuel tank filter for now. The line back there looks to be ok too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

The fuel hose is important to be DIESEL RATED else it will turn to soft mush in a few months .

Just be smart and buy the right stuff, the proper hose clamps are # 12 or 14, I prefer the #12's but they're snug to slide onto the hose .

The clear plastic primary screen (it's NOT a filter) can be removed and blown out backwards if it keeps clogging up . (BT, DT) .

Get some Biobor A.S.A.P. as the fungus is growing and spreading as you're reading this and the car is sitting quietly at the curb .

I hope you know to look in pawn and thrift shops for decent used tools, no need to go all out and buy Mechanic's kits, just buy a giid box and slowly fill it with the tools you need for each job at hand .

The valve adjust needs the special bent 14MM wrenches plus a 22MM socket and ratchet, 13MM socket and 6" extension, stepped typ feeler gauges, those usually remain unlosd at shops because no one knows what they are anymore so a good KD or Blue Point American made one can be $5 ~ $10 .

Make sure it has both .004" & .014" blades, not all have the .004" .

I helped some guys once in Long Beach, they said thank you by stealing a truck load of tools I happened to have there at that moment and I needed to get back to work Monday so I managed to fully kit out for $1,000 including a battered but still good (50 years later) Kennedy rollaway box on large casters .

Lots of old Craftsman, Japanese and even some Chinese tools now make up my kit, (Alltrade is good Chinese stuff) .

Either way you choose to go is good, I prefer to do my own works and have the tools on hand but you only need what you need .

Diseasel300 · #**198** 06-20-2018, 01:27 PM

If it's the grey-bottle Power-Services stuff, you can add that to every fuel fillup if you want. It gets expensive... It will help with nailing and clattering at idle since it contains a cetane booster, but don't expect miracles. You can put it in with the BioBor.

300Drestoration · #**199** 06-20-2018, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

If it's the grey-bottle Power-Services stuff, you can add that to every fuel fillup if you want. It gets expensive... It will help with nailing and clattering at idle since it contains a cetane booster, but don't expect miracles. You can put it in with the BioBor.

It's this stuff https://www.bigmachineparts.com/products/diesel-additive-injector-cleaner-shop-pack-43564p?variant=14373145027&gclid=CjwKCAjw9qfZBRA5EiwAiq0AbZnA8iiY6h9v1NgwR4k4HW2ko3EHJkdOpv1jZz6nJUc Jf7cp5iRkpRoClHMQAvD_BwE

It would be nice to be able to toss it in with the Biobor so that i can really quadruple whammy this all! Think that stuff is safe too?

vwnate1 · #**200** 06-20-2018, 10:44 PM

I know patience is a big PIA but it's necessary or you'll wind up chasing your tail until you get disgusted and junk the car .

You're on the right track now, follow it and keep driving the car, it needs time and miles for the biobor to work .

I don't know about the additive you have chosen .

I too like, use and highly recommend Diesel Kleen by Power Service, it's cheaper than the stuff you're describing there .

300Drestoration · #**201** 06-21-2018, 09:40 AM

I’m seeing lots of diesel fuel line associated with “VW” / “Porsche” that is BRAIDED.
Is braided an advantage?

vwnate1 · #**202** 06-21-2018, 09:43 AM

It's the correct stuff .

300Drestoration · #**203** 06-22-2018, 12:38 PM

here's something else i just discovered.. the fan is broken off of the center bolt and obviously doesn't do anything, and also that A/C condenser (the unit that looks like a radiator) is rather damaged and some of the damage is behind the fan from the loose fan. This must have happened recently. I saw my engine temps go a few C above operating temp the other day and was wondering. It was during a long uphill climb on highway. It went back down after getting over the hill so i assumed it was normal, but now i'm thinking this lack of fan and bad condition of condenser is the cause.

Here is a pic, and then after this is a pic of my parts-car's fan and radiator setup. It looks a whole lot better, so i'll go ahead and plan to do a swap over.

Any thoughts or suggestions during this stage? My A/C works mechanically but the air is nominal temperatures. I'm assuming i need a "recharge" which i have yet to learn about. But is there anything i should pay attention to when doing this fan and condenser swap over?

One more thing.. there is some sort of line/pipe that is hand taped with electrical tape. There is also a tiny oil leak under my car at this spot. I assume this oil leak is from this pipe. What is this line called? I'd like to go about replacing it soon. Pic is below too.

Diseasel300 · #**204** 06-22-2018, 01:14 PM

The electric fan is there mainly to assist the A/C performance. Definitely replace the broken one. The fan won't come on unless the refrigerant pressure is high enough to activate it. It has no bearing on engine temperature until you're well north of 100˚C. If the bent fins annoy you, you can straighten them out with a plastic knife, or you can get a fin rake and get it all straightened/spaced back out like new.

Get that oil pipe fixed NOW. That's one of the infamous oil cooler lines. Google this site for more info. If it lets go and the oil filter thermostat is open, it'll dump your engine oil RIGHT NOW. Damage will occur before you even have time to react/pull-over/stop-engine.

vwnate1 · #**205** 06-22-2018, 07:45 PM

Stop RIGHT NOW and do not operate the engine again until both upper and lower oil cooler hoses there have been replaced .

It's a DIY job but not for the faint of heart .

As mentioned, when that stupid tape lets go, before you can say "?? what??" the engine will be ruined beyond repair .

Don't buy cheapo hoses here either .

300Drestoration · #**206** 06-23-2018, 07:56 AM

Glad I asked but also this is very bad timing regarding work schedule. Very bad.
So, what brand? What’s the good ones to get? Will a shop typically have these? Or any car parts stores?
OR, is it a wasted effort to just take them from my other car? Cause maybe I could do it this weekend if that’s the case.
As for the work.. Is it just a matter of draining the oil completely like any oil change and doing the physical connections labor? They look a little intimidating. Especially since I’m still without any tools after that theft.
I’ll do some homework here..

300Drestoration · #**207** 06-23-2018, 09:04 AM

Alright,
Here’s my method:
On Monday I’m having the valve adjustment down the street. I feel like that process will give my guy a chance to sort of rate the engine’s health and all its wear and tear details. I will ask him to do so.
I have my other engine which has 75K fewer miles on it and also has the fresh turbo and fresh engine mounts and shocks.
If during the valve adjustment my guy says something looks pending end of quality of performance, or worse, then at that point I have greater decisions to make anyways. And perhaps bringing in the other engine will be a good idea regardless of this leaking oil cooler line.
I have an informal car gig friend in town who does engine swaps regularly and knows these cars well.
Looking at the pricing of the two lines and knowing a little about the work behind it, and the fact that there is some overlap of related projects... since apparently I have to lift the engine and engine mounts as well? Giving me access to engine mounts?.. I think I’ll wait until the valve adjustment goes down Monday to determine my fates. I will of course talk about the cooler line project with the shop as well. Sounds expensive to me right now.
And for the time being, Ive learned that if i always have my eye on the oil pressure gauge that I can monitor the situation and pull over if I ever see the gauge start to dip. I need to do some things involving shirt drives under 10 minutes each, between now and Monday. The consequences of not doing these things will be rougher than just a messed up car situation.
Coincidentally I have always had my eyes glued to the oil pressure gauge just out of pure worry that I’m burning through oil and my engine was going to suddenly sieze up. So I’m completely in the habit already. And just to announce.. I’ve been hardly going through oil at all. It’s remarkable. It was at the top line for several months and now is just barely under.. To me that seems different than previous parts-vehicle. I remember refilling regularly. This is why I’m attentive to gauge now.
Anyways, I’m sure this isn’t so smart sounding but I need to keep a balance..

Also, I contacted the previous owner just now and here’s what he said..

“The lines are old dried and cracked, which is common. They’re sealed with silicone and silicone tape. They should be OK but need to be replaced. Replacements are about $80. It’s a bit of a hassle because you have to undo engine mounts and jack up engine to gain access in the rear. Something to be careful of is that the unions are alloy, screwing into alloy, so have a tendency to strip out, as they weld themselves in over time. Plenty of releasing oil! The other option is to cut the high pressure fittings and remove the lines from the metal ends, leaving them in the block or filter housing, and the oil cooler in the front, replace with high pressure hydraulic lines with 2 clamps both ends. The lines should be the rubber type, not the metalized kind as they need to be clamped. I’s a metric sized hose, not inches, I seem to remember 15mm. I found posts on line, people have found this method effective.”

300Drestoration · #**208** 06-28-2018, 03:40 PM

BIG DAY TODAY!!!

Ok,
so yeah I've been driving and paying strict attention to things. I know i'm risking it.

but...

I finally got my appointment to happen for the valve adjustment. I screwed up the appointment TWO times this week, making stupid mistakes. I guess i'm stressed with work lately.

Anyways, so he did the adjustment, and my unknowledgeable newbie self was dreading the phone call to pick up the car because i thought he'd say something like i'd blown a valve or my engine was heavily worn somewhere or something. But he said they just had been tight and it had been a while since the last adjustment and that i would notice a solid improvement.

He also discovered two fuel injector seals were leaking so he replaced them as well.

And, he noticed that my accelerator linkage was completely trashed at the connection point to the firewall. So, the little hinging point was entirely disconnected and free floating. I had been for months noticing that there was a strange feel in it and sometimes it would actually get a bit stuck. So silly me was going down and looking under the pedal itself. But the rotating hinge point in engine bay was a gonner. Totally worn away inside. See the pic at the bottom. He basically said ummm yeah you're gonna notice quite the difference when you have that fixed since before you were basically accomplishing nothing with the pedal until you were 50% pressed down. So when i got back from the shop i pulled mine from my parts car and popped it in. Had to use weird tools but i got the job done cleanly. He had lubricated a bunch of the linkage but i went through and did the rest.

Also, is white lithium grease ok to use for this? I used it for window regulators a while back.

So with my linkage actually working, and the valves adjusted, and the fuel injectors not leaking... the car just takes right off now!! Flies off right away at the press of the throttle. And sounds much quieter and easier too. Driving around my small town i didn't even come close to pressing down 50%. I'll have to give it a real go on a highway on-ramp to see how it feels. Going to be fun.

This a great relief because now the system has been under the eye of an experienced person and he didn't have any "this car is toast" news. He does know these vehicles well. We set up a plan where he's going to quote me for the full replacement of the oil cooler lines. I asked him to also set up a quote for the timing chain replacement as well. He said it's ok but a little loose and needs to be changed at some point soon.

So with this stage, i'm ready to full commit to this vehicle/engine. Time to really dive in.

His price for the adjustment and the general lookover and small repairs was completely fine. Even bit less than i expected. Saved me SO much time in regards to both he injector seals and the linkage hinge point on firewall. I would not for a long time known that the linkage hinge point was busted inside because it looked fine when the throttle was not being used and i was working in bay. So who knows how much time and chasing that saved me.

So, i know i might get hit hard with a price for the cooler lines and that most people prefer DIY for this reason, but i'll wait and see what he says until i try to move forward with anything in that regard. It's not leaking right now and hasn't been for several days. But i will always have my eyes glued to the meter and to the rear view mirror. I've been avoiding driving at night for this reason too.

Now, as for one of the main issues which is the lumpiness.. it's a lot better but it's still coming back a little bit. I described the issue to him after he had done the work and he said it certainly could have been related to the injectors leaking.. "when there are fuel leaks anywhere in these cars, they can behave in all sorts of weird ways." So, this could have contributed, but now i should change the fuel hoses as the next step.

Lastly, check out the second pic below! Happened yesterday..