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#1
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Thanks for the quick response to my heater problem. How much of a job is it to change the monovalve in a 420sel? Is this inside or under the hood? and would this valve effect the air cond. in any way?
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#2
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The valve just controls the flow of coolant through the heater core. Not likely related to any a/c issue.
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#3
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You don't need to change the valve, just the insides. Buy a rebuild kit. You'll see it between the inner and outer firewall, just a bit to the passenger side of the middle. Heater hoses lead to it on from both sides. The kit you buy has a piece of paper that describes how to change it, or at least the one I bought did. It takes more time to find all the right tools and drain some antifreeze than relacing the parts. A really simply DIY job.
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Thank You! Fred 2001 E430 Sport, 192,000 miles 1997 C280 Sport, 142,000 miles 1991 300SL, 189,000 miles 1987 420SEL, 147,000 miles 1986 190e 2.3 16v, 151,000 1968 W30 442, 78,000 miles 1988 46' US1 Cougar, 3 supercharged 572's http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/waybomb/ Warming the globe, 24 cylinders at a time And I want a 126 wagon! Point me to one! |
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#4
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I'll second the advice on just buying the rebuild kit. It's basically the moving piston part. I replaced the guts of mine on my '91 420SEL (W126) a year ago, more or less, at about 170k miles. Symptoms were basically intermittent periods of no heat.
The monovalve is basically a pulse-width modulation system, that is basically either fully open or fully shut. Full open corresponds to full heat, full shut corresponds to no heat at all. For anything in between, the valve opens and closes at the appropriate duty cycle. You can do a fair amount of diagnosing by placing your finger on the top of the valve body - you can feel the valve "cycling" if it is working properly. In my case it would sometimes open up if I set my ACC "temperature wheel" to full hot, but it wouldn't cycle at normal termperature settings. What tends to fail on these is that coolant seeps past worn seals, leading to corrosion. No power corresponds to full-open (i.e. full heat) = a fuse failure of the ACC system results in full heat. If you put the ACC wheel in the opposite state, you should definitely feel the valve move when you remove and re-apply the electrical connection. I think it was this forum where I searched and found a step-by-step set of instructions to installing the rebuild kit, but it was fairly intuitive. A couple of tips, from memory: - I recall moving one or more things out of the way, to get more access or working room above the valve. But now I can't remember what I moved. Maybe it was a switch that detects the hood being opened? I might also have moved the windshield washer fluid reservoir out of the way, and maybe even taken the battery out to get more working room. But I can't remember for sure. - You want to remove the coolant reservoir cap to release pressure from the cooling system before taking the top off the valve. BUT (and this wasn't mentioned in the instructions I found), put the coolant reservoir cap back ON, after releasing the pressure but prior to actually opening up the top of the valve. Otherwise a lot of coolant will drain out onto the floor. With the cap put back on, very little coolant will leak out. - I forget the details now, but be very careful with removing the electrical connector, so as not to crack the plastic of the retaining clip. Last edited by whunter; 04-26-2006 at 10:49 PM. |
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#5
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It is a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10 - Easy as eating pie!
Here: A picture is worth a thousand words: http://mbdieseldiy.tripod.com/monovalve.htm http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ight=monovalve
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1990 300TE 4M Pictures 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo Pictures 1985 300SD Pictures 1980 280SL Pictures 1977 350SLC Pictures 1976 450SL Pictures 2001 Saab 9-5 Wagon Pictures 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Pictures Last edited by whunter; 06-16-2009 at 02:24 AM. Reason: removed dead link |
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#6
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rschleicher,
Even though this post of your was 2 years old it helped me when I took my Monovalve out yesterday. You are right about previous posts or instructions NOT telling you to replace the coolant cap prior to taking the monovalve out. first time I lost quite q bit of coolant. Second time (today)(dummy here reassembled the monovalve with the coil cover upside down with the slots at the bottom) I had read your post and uncapped the coolant overflow tank, and then recapped it. The loss today was less than half of yesterday's loss. It pays to read these DIY hints and posts...even if there are some age to them. Thanks.
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1999 Dodge Quad Cab dually 1ton Diesel, 4X4 Daimler Chrysler era truck. So still in the family. 1984 Euro 500SEC, ("The Blue Bird")Sold 1989 560 SEL "Sylvia" Sold 2001 Texas Heeler (Aussie/Queensland X) "Sulphie" Best dog I ever Had. |
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#7
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JohnHef just did mine and it looked fairly easy. Buy a new one. I have a 420 SEL as well. Mine car is toasty warm now.
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"It's normal for these things to empty your wallet and break your heart in the process." 1987 560 SL- Jezabelle 2000 SL500- Jasmine |
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