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#1
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Biobor, what is it, why do I need it???
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 01-28-2012 at 09:53 AM. Reason: fixed links |
#2
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Great stuff
Just bought a 1980 300Sd that had been parked for three years. The fuel was dark brown from the critters living in it. I drained about nine gallons into two five gallon Nalgene jugs with the intention of dumping it. I pulled and cleaned both tanks, cleaned the screen, replaced the rubber fuel lines, and blew out the feed and return lines. I put in about ten gallons of fresh fuel with new filters and a shot of Biobor and that made the car happy again. Just for fun I gave one of the jugs a shot of Biobor too. In two days the treated jug was clear enough to see the bottom so I treated the other one. A week later I ran it through a 5 micron filter to get rid of the goo and used it in my daily driver.
Most impressive thing I've seen with Biobor is the treatment of 8,000 gallons of continated fuel in a boat. They shocked the tanks with Biobor and two days later came back and pumped the fuel into their holding tank while they flushed the tanks with 15 gallons of kerosine. They saved his fuel, cleaned his system, charged him $500 and gave him a one year warranty. |
#3
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Like most car maintenance this is another area where prevention is the best approach. Generally, algae in the fuel is preceded by water in the fuel. Generally, fuel that is kept free of water is also free of algae.
That point having been made, I consider it cheap insurance to treat your fuel with a biocide a few times a year to curb this problem before it gets out of control. |
#4
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How about dumping a couple cans of HEET into the tank? Supposedly it works for diesel too.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#5
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I used BioGuard (made by ValvTect) on someone else's recommendation. Got it at Outdoor Superstore for $13 plus $6 shipping (Price increased to $15 now). Put a clean prefilter on, dumped it in my tank. Drove to work the next morning and the prefilter was already clogged with the black stuff. Soon as the tank is low, I'm changing out the tank filter (already had one on hand).
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85 300CD 83 300TD 78 240D (daughter) |
#6
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Fungus is like the clapp: You don't geyt it unless you get exposed to it. Fungus doesn't come out of the air: you have to get fuel contaminated with it. So what is I'm saying is that Biobor is not preventive mintenence. Its only needed if you have a fungus contaminated fuel system.
I have been using Diesel engines for 40+ years and only has a fungus problem one time. That was in my '80 300SD that has been in all the startes less one. Someplace in those travels, I got contaminated fuel and had to use Biobor to kill the fungus. Since using the Biobor 10,000+ miles I had to replace one inline fuel filter and did no other cleaning fo the fuel system. P E H |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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it is
my information that if you have water in the tank fungi will grow. no water no fungi.
so i believe that you can get it without being contaminated from the outside. after all where would the first fungi contamination come from otherwise? or also you can get it from a contaminated tank. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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T walgamuth,
U don't need water in tank for fungus to grow, it actually lives off the Diesel fuel. U get fungus by buying contaminated Diesel fuel. Biobor is best fungus killer, but its expensive. I paid $40 for a quart and $40 more for shipping because its considered a hazardous substance. P E H |
#10
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Fungus
Starbrite's Startron diesel enzyme fuel additive in the diesel tank...no further
worries...breaks down the Fungoidal infestation into particles small enough to pass through the filters and burn in the engine. AKLIM, HEET is ALCOHOL which is hygroscopic (attracts water molecules...bonds with the water molecules...F***s up the Injectors,I.P.and Engine).
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#11
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Quote:
Seriously though, fungus spores are everywhere (we are all quite fortunate gonorrhea isn't equally airborne!). Bacteria are also everywhere. If something hasn't been specifically sterilized, you can pretty much bet there's stuff growing on it. That includes you.
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'81 300TD Wagon 355k (Miss Diesel) '83 300SD 180k '84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out) |
#12
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In my opinion Startron works better than Biobor. Besides Biobor specifically says "not for automotive use" on the label.
That said you can get both items at West Marine. Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#13
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Yep. It's illegal for use in on-the-road vehicles. EPA standards and all that. It's actually spelled out on the 1 QT and bigger containers of it, with a big 'It is a violation of federal law to [...]' thrown in for extra fear.
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#14
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CI are you telling us that if we know in fact that we have algae to use startron instead?
Whats the dose for an infected w123 with a stock tank? |
#15
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europower,
U can't know in fact that U have algae because algea does not grow in oil. What U might have is a fungus that will grow in oil. P E H |
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