14.9mpg in my SDL, no, the math is right...and the odometer works too...

[P.E.Haiges]

Want,

Tank strainer easy to check. Remove rubber fuel line where it attaches to steel fuel line. If fuel comes out in a steady stream, the strainer is OK and nothing has to be done.

If fuel doesn't come out fast, the strriner needs to be cleaned. Usually the strainer gets plugger by fungus growing in the fuel and you need a biocide to kill the fungus.

P E H

[WANT '71 280SEL]

braverichard, thanks for the link. I came across that site last night and ordered two bottles. I'm going to run 2 through the fuel hose at the fuel filter with the return line in the bottle. I will do this after I've installed the new spin-on filter since someone here said I would get most efficiency that way.

P.E., thanks for the info. I'll check that out either today or tomorrow and will post results. Currently I need to tap the drain plug on my SD, replace a GP, and put the thermostat housing back together so I can deliver it to the purchaser Sunday.

Thanks Guys
David

[NC240D76]

I think Phil at fastlane just had the lubro moly on sale, if I am remembering correctly, I got 20 cans for $80.00 and that included shipping.
I would think he will still be competitive and we need to help suppost this forum.

David,
Just as a tip (I learned the hard way), don't forget that the 'spin on' filter is actually a 'bolt on' filter

The filter looks a little less like a filter when you get done trying to 'spin' it off with a pair of humongous channel locks

You probably already know this but its worth checking anywho

Have fun

[boneheaddoctor]

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

David,
Just as a tip (I learned the hard way), don't forget that the 'spin on' filter is actually a 'bolt on' filter

The filter looks a little less like a filter when you get done trying to 'spin' it off with a pair of humongous channel locks

You probably already know this but its worth checking anywho

Have fun

You aren't the first one to make that mistake.................

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

You aren't the first one to make that mistake.................

...which is why I shared again hehe

[Hatterasguy]

Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL

I constantly have the throttle down resting on the kickdown or about 3/4 for normal acceleration.

David

Try this, once you get all clean filters and fluids in her. Then make sure the brakes are not draging. Do two 0-60 runs and average the time. It sounds like she is a little low on power, you should not have to get on a 603 that hard in normal driving.

I think the high fuel use and low power are related. I am thinking your injectors maybe not be up to par.

[Diesel_Canuck]

I've got a few questions regarding your poor fuel economy and black smoke.

1. Did the black smoke occur suddenly, or gradually increase over a long period of time?

2. Have you calculated your fuel consumption with a gas cap in place? (I once lost my gas cap, and was surprised by how much fuel spilled down the side of the car)

3. Have you checked your engine oil level recently? How much oil is your car using?

4. Has the Trap Oxidizer been replaced?

I suspect a failed trap oxidizer, which is pushing engine oil through your turbocharger seals, and into the intake, causing your lack of power, poor fuel economy, and black smoke. It happened to my '87 SDL last year. If this is the cause of your complaints, take your car to the dealership for a pile of free parts installed at MB's expense.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Second time typing this, so I'll be short.

Trap has been replaced.

It's had this condition since I bought it.

Gas cap is now on and I've gone 350 miles or so and used about 3/4 a tank or so.

I know about the spin-on filters. I've done this service to my SD before.

If I adjust the ALDA will it affect boost? I'd like to check boost first, but I may just go straight to adjusting the ALDA.

Thanks
David

[psfred]

IP timing is way late, you have the "normal" fuel leaks in the suction hoses, and probably some dribble off the return line main hose -- those leaks aren't very obvious on the 603.

Especially check the lines around the fuel preheater thermostat, bolted to the block the IP, they are bent pretty sharply and crack, allowing an amazing amoutn of fuel to drip straight onto the sound panel underneath.

I'll bet the timing chain slipped while being installed and the IP timing very late -- should be 15 degrees ATDC using the Bosch tool. Via drip tube method it should be the normal 24-26 BTDC.

I would guess you also have bad injectors as well.

Driving around at 3/4 throttle all the time you should be crashing into things.

One last thing -- remove and plug the EGR line from the EGR valve. Large amounts of black smoke, lethargic performance, and bad milage will result if the EGR is hanging open. It should be closed at idle, open fully by partial thottle, then close again completely at full throttle -- if it sticks, the excess exhaust gasses will cause severe overfuelling (because there is too little air, not because of too much fuel), and exhaust temps stay way low, so you get no turbo. When the turbo finally spins up, the smoke goes away and you get near normal power.

If disconnecting the EGR cures it, you can either plate it off (a bad valve will often leak) or plug the line with a BB.

Peter

[Hatterasguy]

Originally Posted by mespe

possible bad bearing in Alternatorm PS pump A/C Water pump. And it might be an accumulation of things, i.e. low tire pressure = 5% drop, bad bearing = 5% drop, struck brake = 10% drop,,,,,
I seriously doubt if ANY ONE component is causing such bad performance.

Last month the bearings in my water pump and alt died in about a three week period. I didn't notice much of a mileage or power drop before I changed them out. I didn't drive with them like that for long but maybe my mileage dropped off 1mpg if that. Bearings make a lot of noise you will know when you have a bad one. Besides the 603 has one belt driving everything, if you let bearings get that bad you are asking for trouble.

But since the belt comes of so easy it is probably worth the time to check. Might as well check everything and rule out everything you can.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Peter, how can I check IP timing on a 603? Are the IP bolts any easier than the 617 ones? I'll go through your list within the next week or so and keep you guys updated.
Thanks
David

[MS Fowler]

I saw a question about possible brake system drag, but no answer. After a drive, are the wheels hot to the touch? Is there excessive brake dust?
I've seen a single dragging caliper cut mileage in half. It also makes for a sluggish car. Both symptoms you have.

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Ms, I'll be sure to check that when I have the car in the air on the lift next time. Right now, I've gone 350 miles and have a quarter tank left. I'll fill it up this evening and get back to you guys.
Thanks
David

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Today I filled up my tank. I came back home and did the math...I got 21.4 mpg on the last tank which consisted of about 60%+ highway drving.

Also, today I met a member here, zbenz, and he drove the car. he said the low power felt alright but he didn't hear or feel the turbo coming in if I understood him correctly. So, I guess I need to go to Autozone tomorrow and buy a boost gauge and we'll go from there. What do you guys think?

Thanks
David