Clock repair - '75 240D

[Roger]

Greetings,

Can anyone tell me if the clock repair made by replacing two capacitors as previously discussed elsewhere on this site applies to the OE clock on my '75 240D?

Prior discussions seem to relate to "older" models from the 80's that have the clock co-located with the tach rather than in its separate housing/dial above and between the two major instrument windows in my cluster.

Thanks

Roger in timeless San Antonio

I'll watch this closely, I have the same problem with my '69 230/6

[vrsmith]

I repaired my clock with new capacitors. If your clock was made by VDO, like my clock/tach, then it is likely that the repair will work. It's worth a try anyway. After my repair, the clock works well and has kept perfect time since.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Roger,
I think the later Quartz clocks have the faulty capacitor probllems. Is your clock a quartz-electronic
movement or is it an electric winding mechanical clock like my 1972 and older Benzes? Besides the 'clean and lube' issues of a mechanical clock, the older electric winding VDO clocks have a contact set at the winding solenoid that can be cleaned up and a thermal fuse that can be resoldered
(It often melts this fuse when the battery is allowed to run down).
There are usually 2 or 3 tiny nuts holding the plastic cover on the back of the clock. (One of them may have a 'Warranty seal' covering it. I don't think you need to worry about the warranty anymore but if you're really clever and worried about originality you might be able to save and reinstall the seal.) Hope this helps.
Mark DiSilvestro

[Roger]

Thanks for the replies. It is a VDO Quartz Zeit. So I take it the consensus is it's problem is likely capacitor related, Will have a go at it and see what happens.
Thanks again!

Roger

[ctaylor738]

Could anyone point me to the original post on fixing the clock? I have a VDO Quartz Zeit with the same problem.

Related question - what is the trick to removing the bezel, which I assume is the key to getting to the problem?

It will turn, but that's all.

TIA

Chuck

[Mark DiSilvestro]

The bezel is crimped on. You'll have to remove the clock and remove the plastic back cover to get to the mechanisim.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[ctaylor738]

I don't understand.

The clock is out. There is a black ring under the bezel, then the clear plastic covering the face. The back of the clock is mostly the metal that the bezel is crimped on.

Does the black ring come out and release the plastic?

TIA

Chuck

[Mark DiSilvestro]

I just dug out my only 114-115 spare VDO clock and opened it up. Unlike the older Mercedes clocks, this one has a one piece
steel case with the chrome bezel crimped over the rim. The 'black ring' on mine is just flat black paint on the inside of the bezel.
Very carefully, with a sharp screwdriver, knife blade, or whatever tool works best for you, it's possible to work loose the crimp on the backside of the bezel. You need to straighten as much as possible the crimp on the backside of the chrome bezel without distortng the front side of the bezel. Then, with whatever sharp tool you prefer, try to gently work the bezel off of the case. Mine has a clear rubber seal under the chrome bezel, then the 'glass', then a cone shaped metal ring and finally, a blue plastic light diffuser behind that ring. There are 3 slotted nuts on the back of the case. 2 of these nuts should already be off after removing the clock from the cluster. remove the third nut and the dial and mechanisim should slide out of the case. When you reassemble it, you will need to figure out how to re-crimp the bezel. Maybe set the clock on a flat surface (with a hole provided to prevent pressure on the dial knob) and roll a round metal bar, ratchet extension, etc against the backside of the bezel.
A final note; My 114-VDO clock is an electric-self winding unit. A discussion on quartz Mercedes clocks that I followed awhile ago indicated that this 'resistor' might be on the circuit board, not inside the clock. I don't have a quartz VDO clock or cluster circuit to dissect.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[Mark DiSilvestro]

In my last message, I meant 'capacitor' not 'resistor'.

Good Luck, Mark

[ctaylor738]

OK, I'll give it a try. I'm on the road this week but as soon as I get home, I will attack the bezel, checking first for a capacitor on the circuit board.

Thanks.

Chuck

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

Roger,
I think the later Quartz clocks have the faulty capacitor probllems. Is your clock a quartz-electronic
movement or is it an electric winding mechanical clock like my 1972 and older Benzes? Besides the 'clean and lube' issues of a mechanical clock, the older electric winding VDO clocks have a contact set at the winding solenoid that can be cleaned up and a thermal fuse that can be resoldered
(It often melts this fuse when the battery is allowed to run down).
There are usually 2 or 3 tiny nuts holding the plastic cover on the back of the clock. (One of them may have a 'Warranty seal' covering it. I don't think you need to worry about the warranty anymore but if you're really clever and worried about originality you might be able to save and reinstall the seal.) Hope this helps.
Mark DiSilvestro

Thank you for saving one of my old clocks the thermal fuse
Was blown and the contacts on the solenoid looked like a bomb crater but it works now. These are quite neat instruments very serviceable instead of the throw away stuff they make nowadays. I use a voltmeter from older jaguars in place of the clock in both my cars it is a perfect fit it looks stock. Therefore, for the clock I guess I will just leave this ticking away on the desk instead of broken in the drawer
Dave S

if anyone needs it, i have a new looking clock for a 123, the arms are still original orange, it works perfect. email or PM with offer.