Pictorial on how to replace your ignition lock with a stuck or broken key.

[dieseldan44]

am having the exact same problem. discussing it here...

Ignition Key wont turn

[nscarr]

I modified my ignition lock housing after finding it faulty. Well, after finding the lock cylinder faulty and replacing it--I believe the two failures were connected...

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Summary:
I couldn't put key into the ignition at all. Metal dust had been observed for a while but I let it go too long and now there was total failure. Some loose brass bits visible in the keyhole.


Install a new ignition lock cylinder but find the ignition lock housing is bad. Modify the housing to be simpler and smoother, at the cost of becoming less theft-proof.


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The details:


Started by following dieselgiant's excellent illustrated guide (http://dieselgiant.com/repairignitionlock.htm) but ran into a snag when I had some major difficulty removing the ignition lock housing. (I couldn't get the dash to move down by removing the left bolt by the emergency brake release.) I reasoned that I could drill out the ignition lock cylinder enough to disable the tab which holds it in the ignition lock cover. While this worked and doesn't require removal of instrument cluster, etc, this took a number of hours for me as I was not very well equipped and broke ten drill bits in the process; if you decide to go this route, get some good drill bits! Also I broke the paperclip in the hole for the tab release, but was able to drill it out with a 1/16” bit.


I installed the new ignition lock cylinder, but after only a couple of turns of the key, it was stuck in the “off” position. I dreaded drilling that sucker out again, so I gave the removal of the ignition lock housing another try. This time I didn't bother removing the dash bolt by the emergency brake, but I did remove the steering wheel and the two small nuts on the lower steering column support. (Also removed the other things listed in dieselgiant's procedure.) I was surprised how much force it took to maneuver the ignition lock housing out while forcing the dash, but it worked and without apparent damage to the dash.


Now I have my ignition lock housing out, but I can't turn the key to remove the electrical cables to remove it from the car without cutting them! Following dieselgiant's advice, by moving the housing around the key begrudgingly turned. Careful to keep the key in position I, I removed the lock cylinder again and tried to see the problem. Basically I decided the column lock mechanism was bad in the housing—it just seemed too crunchy to get the key to turn, and there is a spring loaded wedge inside the housing that was definitely crunchy, see photo #885. I drilled completely through the locking pin and another place in an attempt to free it up, but this didn't work at all.


Since this housing seemed crunchy beyond use, I decided to see if I could get it to work by stripping it down to it's most basic components. (Also it was Sunday so the parts store was closed, and I wanted my wife to be able to drive her own car on Monday instead of borrowing mine.) I removed the plate holding the guts (photo #887) by drilling through near the edges then prying up with a punch. By rotating the mechanism which interacts with the cylinder, it fell out (photo #888) and was easily disassembled (photo #890). Next, the column lock mechanism came out easily (photo #893), and the shaft and spring removed from the rectangular portion.


To make sure I could remove the lock cylinder more easily in future tests, I ground off the tab on the housing which keeps it in even when the cover is absent (photo #894—not a very useful angle!). I also shaved off the plastic tabs on the electrical switch portion so if something happened in the future I could still remove it (photo #899).


For re-assembly, the plate can only be inserted one way, and the column lock's rectangular portion, too. There is an electrical connection with a small plastic switch which I removed—this helps with installing the rectangular portion. The piece from photo #888 (cylinder interacting mechanism) had to be rotated due to a notch in the plate (photo #896, about 4 o'clock). I greased it up well, epoxied the lid back on, and replaced the plastic piece that controls the shut-off valve vacuum switch—it only goes on the shaft one way, but it has two possible orientations—I took my best guess since I forgot to check before disassembly (photo #902—this is key in “off” position), which worked.


I installed the housing without the lock cylinder since it's smaller that way and much easier to fit in. Then I put the car back together and found the electrical switch didn't need a contact to start—what does it do? Also need to be sure the cylinder is lined up with the plate mechanism properly—it's obvious once assembled if it's not.

[nscarr]

more photos for the previous post.