Turbo Cartridge Replacement

[1983/300CD]

Does anyone know exactly how to take the turbo apart in order to replace the middle section (cartridge)?

There are 6 bolts at "A",
4 bolts at "B",
and 6 more bolts at "C".

Removing the 6 "C" bolts exposes the compressor blades. I'm assuming this is all I need to take off the front.

Removing the 4 "B" bolts does nothing. The turbo center section now spins, but will not separate.

Only 4 of the 6 "A" bolts can be removed because there is not enough clearance to remove the last two. (You can see in the picture that the top bolt is too tight.) There has to be some trick here that I don't know about. But in any case, when the "A" bolts are loosened, it doesn't help anything. It doesn't feel like it is going to come apart.

I would rather replace the cartridge than send it in to be rebuilt. Any suggestions?

[jbaj007]

Keep going, don't forget locknut on shaft. Blow-up diagram with this kit may help (no affiliation) FWIW.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPL...ayphotohosting

[1983/300CD]

Thanks, but my compressor wheel is mangled too. I thought it best if I just replaced the whole cartridge (it also rocks a little when you wiggle the shaft). I guess I'll just have to order a cartridge and see what it includes.

[dannym]

Here are some threads from my subscritions that may help you:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=111519

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=115670

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=113087

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=114337

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...d.php?t=115718

I don't know if it's in any of these but there is a thread with a complete parts list for about $20.
There is also a thread with a drop in replacement for around $300.

Danny

[RAYMOND485]

1984 300d Turbo
Rebuilt Turbo $595.00 Core $200.00. Install One
On The 300d 1-800-521-7656 2-6 Hrs Diy. The Smoke Was The Valve Stem Seals **************.com Have The Seal Kit, Guide Book, Xtra
Nuts, Push On Tool, $78.00 3-8 Hrs. Diy

[1983/300CD]

Thanks, I want to get to those valve stem seals too someday.

Someone told me that it is the "A" bolts that I need to work on while banging the housing. The housing is supposed to separate, allowing me to unscrew the bolt the rest of the way.

Okay, while on the topic of turbo... Where is the overboost protection and what is the thinking behind it? If you have a wastegate, that should do it, no? And if you have an "overboost protection", then why worry about the wastegate? Why not set the wastegate to all the way max pressure (never to open), and let the overboost protection protect you from overboosting?

[dannym]

Found this in the first link I posted earlier:

I just "rebuilt" my turbo by buying a complete "cartridge" from East Coast Turbo, LLC out of Locust, North Carolina. The cartridge contains all the working "inards" of a complete turbo, balanced and ready to drop into your housing. The cost was $250 with free shipping, plus $60 core....very reasonable....I don't remember their price for a complete turbo, but it was reasonable (maybe another 100 dollars).

[Johnhef]

I'm in the process of going the rebuild it myself $20 route, I'm waiting for a fax back from the place in Texas.

[Brian Carlton]

Originally Posted by Johnhef

I'm in the process of going the rebuild it myself $20 route, I'm waiting for a fax back from the place in Texas.

Would you know if they carry parts for the KKK?

[Johnhef]

I would believe they do, the first thing they asked me was if it was a garrett or kkk. The person I was dealing with was Mark if you decide to call.

First one of us to do the rebuild is required to do step by step photos!

[sailor15015]

Originally Posted by 1983/300CD

Okay, while on the topic of turbo... Where is the overboost protection and what is the thinking behind it? If you have a wastegate, that should do it, no? And if you have an "overboost protection", then why worry about the wastegate? Why not set the wastegate to all the way max pressure (never to open), and let the overboost protection protect you from overboosting?

Wastegates can fail. So can over-boost protection devices. I'd rather have them both working than have the boost psi shoot up uncontrollably and blow a gasket or worse. Makes me sleep easier at night anyway.

[1983/300CD]

Thanks, but I have already made the decision to replace the cartridge, I just need help on how to get the turbo apart! And I've banged on it with a hammer, it won't budge. I can't get the last two bolt out because the oil line and shape of part are obstructing their removal.

I've included a picture. Should I take a prybar to it? I am having no luck with the hammer. I don't want to crack it, and banging on it won't budge it or loosen it at all. The loosened ring you see in the picture is apparently what keeps the center connected to the exhaust section. That is, unless it is corroded together.

[t walgamuth]

any positive suggestions except to be careful with the banging. a cracked housing will be costly to replace.

tom w

[Brian Carlton]

It would appear that the final two bolts will need to be removed if you expect to seperate it. May need to modify a box wrench to do it.

[1983/300CD]

I got it apart! I wedged a screwdriver between the top of the bolt head and the oil line mounting and just pounded it in there. Once it is free, it's just a matter of pushing them apart with one hand as you unscrew the bolt with the other.