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#1
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I have a problem with my heater in my 1984 300SD. With the climate control knob at max I push the defrost button, or the front vent button, or any settings to make it blow, it blows cold air. OK that’s bad. But it some times blows hot air. It will blow hot air when the car is at idle (when it’s warming up in the morning, or at a stop light for a few min) it will blow hot air, but as soon as the car starts moving it blows cold air again. I don't understand why. Any one knows what the problem could be?
thanks Nik |
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#2
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Sounds just like a monovalve:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...61#post1026761 See the links on my entry on the attached thread. Also look at this: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...64#post1023864 If it is the monovalve then you need to get a replacement center piece: Bosch part number 1 147 213 007. I got mine at Olympic Auto Parts for ~$60, but you can get it on line here for less if you want to wait for delivery (I didn't). The dealer wants about $100, but some will say you need the whole valve for over $330!
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1990 300TE 4M Pictures 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo Pictures 1985 300SD Pictures 1980 280SL Pictures 1977 350SLC Pictures 1976 450SL Pictures 2001 Saab 9-5 Wagon Pictures 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan Pictures Last edited by pwogaman; 11-30-2005 at 07:52 PM. |
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#3
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Thanks a bunch. I'll order that soon and let you know if it was the problem.
i posted this probelm on some other MB forums... with no responce. thanks for the quick responce. Nik |
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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This doesn't really sound like a monovalve problem to me. Why would a bad monovalve provide heat at idle, but not when driving? I guess it could be sticking closed sometimes, but that sounds unlikely. One way to find out would be to unplug the monovalve and verify that you get maximum heat. If you get max heat with it unplugged it may be the control unit acting up. I would give that a try before ordering any parts.
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'82 300D (514K) '83 240D (242K) '83 BMW R80/ST (36K) |
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#6
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Depending on the size of the hole in the diaphram the problem may only occur at higher engine rpm because the water pump is working harder. At lower rpm the water pump is working slower and not causing the hot coolant to by-pass the heat exchanger. Eventually, once the hole is big enough the heat will fail entirely.
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#7
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Quote:
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'82 300D (514K) '83 240D (242K) '83 BMW R80/ST (36K) |
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#8
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Just had this problem/symptoms. A new monovalve rebuild kit fixed SPARKY THE DIESEL right up. Strange as how it sounds, it also fixed the tach problem I was having.....no tach at idle with air con/heater blower on.
Was about $28.00 cost and freight off e-bay total. Was willing to try a junker valve before invested in a good one from our sponsor. Regards Run-em 1983 300 S D- aka- SPARKY THE DIESEL |
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#9
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I just changed my monovalve and it was easy. You can find a really great "How To" at:
http://mbdieseldiy.tripod.com/monovalve.htm My MB is a 1990 560 SEC and I wasn't getting any heat. Works great now. BSA |
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#10
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Just curious about a notion mentioned earlier...when un-plugged, the mono-valve will default to...either open or closed (assumption). Anyone know which way? I ask because while I love my low budget SD and just love the hell out of wrenching-while-driving as I've been doing for the last 700 miles...well...it's getting right cold here in Va and my climate control is suspect...as is just about everything right now heat-wise. It's getting difficult to hit stereo pre-sets with mittens on...darn face plate keeps falling off.
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1983 300SD... 269,000 miles, nearly 2,500 on my B-100, Faded Grey, Ugly in an elegant sort of way...Duh-Benz If any of this has been a blasphemy to you, then good, because it's been a blast for me to...A.Whitney Brown |
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#11
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Quote:
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'82 300D (514K) '83 240D (242K) '83 BMW R80/ST (36K) |
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#12
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Bump
for customer.
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