Help! Oil spewing from timing chain tensioner / aluminum washer area

[71Rcode]

Can anyone suggest where I can get another aluminum washer for my timing chain tensioner?

Just started the engine for the first time after the head gasket replacement (M104 '95 E320) and oil is spewing from the timing chain tensioner. It's coming from where the large part of the tensioner threads into the engine block. So I pulled the AIR pump and removed the tensioner. The washer was somewhat rolled over, so I hammered it back flat and reinstalled it. Still spewing out, although not as bad.

Think it's time for a new tensioner? Or should I just try and source a washer locally, and try things again? Any ideas on where I can get an aluminum washer on a saturday? Thanks!

[Arthur Dalton]

Can't help with washer, but make sure you know about the tensioner being a ratchet type mechanism... have seen many that have not reset the tensioner plunger after some chain/head , resulting in disaster...

http://webwench.net/w123manuals/Service/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/104/05-3100.pdf

[71Rcode]

Thanks, Arthur. I've got the workings of the tensioner down. I've just got to find an aluminum O-ring.

[ozzy]

Try your local bearing/hydraulic shop.

ozzy.

[Ferdman]

71Rcode, call your local MB dealer's Parts Department about the aluminum washer ... they will have the part in stock or can get it overnight.

[Arthur Dalton]

Originally Posted by 71Rcode

Thanks, Arthur. I've got the workings of the tensioner down. I've just got to find an aluminum O-ring.

Ok ..
For those following the thread :
Tensioner has to be reset by pushing the plunger through and re-entering it in the other side to re-establish the correct tension.

[Ralph69220d]

I was a little unclear as to whether the leak you mentioned was from the area of the "bolt" through the tensioner housing or from around where the tensioner housing bolts to the block. If the latter, though I'm uncertain on your model, the sealing element is either of two rubber o-rings, or a gasket. If of the o-ring type, there are two machined grooves that the o-rings fit into. The lubricating and oil pressurization (if of the non-ratcheting type) passes into the tensioner through the large hole and exits through the smaller hole, thus creating the pressurization. Sorry if you're referring to the large headed "bolt" that passes through the housing.

[71Rcode]

Thanks, guys. I was able to source the alumimum o-rings from the MB dealer. However, and I feel like an idiot for this - but I cross threaded the tensioner housing as it goes into the block. I realized today that has been my problem all weekend. Can't believe I did that.

So I tried reinserting the tensioner housing into the block, using a stout screwdriver and care on my wrench to get it to thread and seat correctly. Although it seemed to have gone in quite straight this last time, I'm still spewing oil from the same location --- right side of the tensioner housing, with the oil coming from behind the aluminum o-ring. I will also admit I lost a few threads (aluminum) in the female part of the block, where the tensioner housing threads. But, I have plenty of threads in the block to where she'll tighten down.

I'm really down about this. What should I do?
a) Tow it to and indy?
b) Find a tap and rechase the threads ---- (btw, does anyone know the size?)
c) Or, is there still hope with me trying my method of seating this thing correctly? I've only been tightening down the housing by feel. With the aluminum o-ring, I don't want to go crazy with the torque. Should I consider using a thin coat of MB sealant on either side of the o-ring? Or is that a future disaster waiting to happen?

Thanks, guys.

Ralph, my oil leak was from where the tensioner housing threads into the block. And it's the ratcheting type. And don't be sorry, I appreciate your post. Thanks again.

[Arthur Dalton]

<< >>

Both torque specs are on page #1 of the Instuctions I sent you.....

[71Rcode]

Arthur,

Yes -- I see it now on the drawing. 80Nm tensioner housing / 40Nm end cap. Thanks for straightening me out on that.

[Arthur Dalton]

Originally Posted by 71Rcode

Arthur,

Yes -- I see it now on the drawing. 80Nm tensioner housing / 40Nm end cap. Thanks for straightening me out on that.

Rounded off conversion will be 30 and 60 ft/lbs......

[71Rcode]

Arthur, thanks again. Reseated the tensioner correctly - I had it cross threaded -- and thankfully, I was able to save it. 59 foot lbs on the tensioner housing and she sealed right up. No more oil spewing.

And, no more leaking oil from the front cover. But, I have a new oil leak, or one I wasn't aware of. It's now dripping down on the alternator, and dripping off the alternator housing. I've never seen oil come from this location before. It's always been from the upper cover, and closer to the block. This leak is further out at the alternator. There are no visible signs of the leak source. Upper cover dry. Tensioner dry. Valve cover dry. Head where it meets the block, dry.

I'm thinking now it's the lower cover.

BTW, the car is running great after the head gasket repair.

[Arthur Dalton]

Clean it all off and watch closely..you may have a lip seal leak..you have to use the Benz sealant or Loctite 5900..