Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-05-2007, 07:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 16
72 250c head removal help needed.

72 250c head removal help needed.

i have a m130v type gas engine in need of a head gasket. at this point i have a few questions. i am following along in the haynes manual step by step and need further advice.

1. how do you pull out the chain tensioner sprocket once the shaft is removed? is there a special trick i have yet to find out? the chain tensioner sprocket and pivot bracket are free from the extracted shaft but it seems to bind against the cam sprocket and chain as i try to pull it out.

2. what size are the two socket head screws that hold the chain guide in? from what i see there are no distinguishable surfaces in the holes to get any tool on to.

3. cam sprocket bolt. leftie loosie, standard bolt right? as i turn the bolt with a breaker bar, the whole engine turns. should i brace the cam sprocket by jamming a bar in one of the holes to stop it from turning?

i am going back under the hood tomorrow.

thanks

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-06-2007, 02:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 504
Where To Begin.....

1. If you need a head gasket, you probably need a new chain. Alwats start at TDC, then measure chain stretch. Cut the old chain with a Dremel, use the master link with the new chain to create a continuous chain.

2. Why do you need to remove the tensioner sprocket? Are you replacing the tensioner rails? It takes a special puller.

3. Why are you removing the cam sprocket? Remember, you are getting a new chain. If you "jam" the sprocket, it will be expensive.

4. Mercedes and Haynes manuals are a contradiction of terms.
__________________
1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-06-2007, 07:51 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
on #2, i suspect you are talking about the pins that hold in the guide rail. these have a threaded center which can be pulled with one of the bolts in the thermostat housing which takes a 10 mm wrench.

using this bolt or one similar and a stack of washers and or nuts you can pull the pin. just take your time and it will come right out. replacement is by tapping it back in with a hammer.

good luck

tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-06-2007, 09:14 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,358
To clarify Tom's procedure. By using a stack of washers he means; the washers against the head need to be large enough for the pin to slide inside. You are trying to create a cylinder. About a 3/8" washer if I remember correctly. Use 3 or 4 of these stacked with two or three 1/4" washers between the larger stack and the head of the bolt you are using to provide the pulling force.

I wouldn't use one of the thermostat bolts. I'm not saying it won't work but those are some pretty low-grade bolts. Disgusting sound, that dull snap. Take one of the thermostat bolts down to the local hardware store and get a 10.9 HARDENED bolt to use.

Usually, when you get the pin to slide it comes out smoothly. Make sure you have the washers centered over the pin.

Alternatively, and the method I prefer, pull the radiator and use a slide hammer.

Before I would use a hammer handle (nothing metal!) through the cam sprocket, and I have used that method with success, I would use an impact wrench to loosen the cam gear bolt.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-06-2007, 01:00 PM
wbain5280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
This is what I used on my 420SEL M116.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/wb300se/MB_420SEL/DSC_0035.jpg

Pretty simple.
__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-06-2007, 03:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,358
Those responses pretty much covered the Continental U.S.!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-06-2007, 07:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 16
thanks for the info.

head is now off. ordering gaskets, valve oil seals and possibly valve guides. sending the head to the shop to be checked out. oil and coolant were mixing causing hesitation, fouled plugs and occasional white smoke. there is evidence of the white creamy mayonaise like substance in the upper portion of the block.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page