92 300E W124 ignition cylinder removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

treiberg · #1 05-17-2010, 09:01 PM

My ignition cylinder is starting to stick so I want to get it replaced before it locks up and will need major attention. I can get the switch to position #1, but cannot seem to remove the cylinder. I have made a tool from a hanger, with the pointed ends as discussed on threads here. Thy seem to insert OK, but cylinder will not pop out.

The threads are a bit confusing, with some saying you only need to insert on top hole, some say both. Some threads say you have to turn the outer black ring CCW once tool is inserted, some say the cylinder should just pop out. A bit confused and looking for some clear direction on this model. I am guessing that this should not require much force, if any.

Thanks for the help, guys!

JohnM. · #2 05-17-2010, 09:03 PM

I'm also wanting to replace my cylinder soon. I too thought the directions were a bit ambiguous and would like a clear picture of what to expect!

fred1948 · #3 05-17-2010, 09:40 PM

I replaced mine a few months ago and found it quite easy to remove. You must be able to get it to position 1 or cutting will be required.
The tool must be bent so that the 2 legs are exactly the same length and parallel when inserted into the holes. The tool presses down a spring catch on the side of the cylinder and also enters two recesses in the rear of housing that holds the cylinder. This swings a couple of cams that do the final releasing.
Very difficult to explain exactly how it works. The entire mechanism is as intriguing as any Chinese puzzle that I have seen!

Be sure to have the ends of the tool sharpened at an angle exactly as the pictures show. This aids in pushing the cams into position.

If your key is sticking sometimes, I would not take any chances. Remove the cylinder and use a screwdriver to start the car for a few days until the new cylinder and key arrive. Very easy to insert a large screwdriver into the switch to turn it.

You should not have to rotate anything to remove the cylinder once the tool is properly inserted. May take a little jiggling to get the tool into position however.

J. M. van Swaay · #4 05-17-2010, 10:59 PM

I just did this a few weeks ago. I also had trouble. I could get the release tool inserted but no release.............

Finally, I used a flashlight to look carefully into the holes where you insert the release tool. It turned out the the ignition had to be almost at position 1 but not quite. By the way, position 1 was much further clockwise than I thought. Using the flashlight, I could see when the holes lined up with slots in the tumbler. (the tool has to slide through the tumbler slots to properly release the tumbler)

Hope this makes sense.

J. M. van Swaay

TnBob · #5 05-17-2010, 11:50 PM

Remember that a locksmith can make your new ignition lock match your existing key for about $20

ps2cho · #6 05-18-2010, 01:52 AM

Your tool might be too thick. You need to give it a good "push" to depress the spring that allows it to unlock. If you cannot feel the spring depress, your coathanger is too thick. Find another one that is thinner.

Also use a flashlight as J.M stated above to make 100% sure it is lined up. Assuming it is, either push harder or the coathanger is too thick...Or I guess too thin even? It's gotta be dead right diameter.

treiberg · #7 05-18-2010, 01:55 AM

Excellent advice from all! I will report back in the next day or two.

treiberg · #8 05-18-2010, 06:56 AM

Duh!! My problem was that I was not in position #1. For some reason, I was thinking that position #1 is where the hole would line up with the first notch on the black collar...wrong! A simple review of the manual showed me position #1 is where the key lines up with the second notch in the collar. Once I did this, I literally had it out in 5 seconds.

Learnings....I really hope this saves others a little time...and for me a pic is worth at least a hundred words, so please review pics to get a real understanding of this.

1) See pic for true position #1 (feel stupid in hindsight!)

2) Used metal coat hanger, which measured very close to 2mm.

3) Used two seperate peices of wirte instead of one u-shaped wire. It appears that you only need to release the top one, as the bottom one did not have a tab on it. Maybe this is specific to model, I am not sure.

4) I did not remove plastic trim piece initially, not understanding how things fit together. When cylinder was pulled out, it pulled the plastic trim with it.

5) See pic for clear understanding of how notches line up for insertion of wire.

As I play with the cylinder, it grabs pretty hard and does not turn smoothly at all, with both of my keys.

Plan on taking advice from earlier reply and getting a locksmith to re-key my new $17 cylinder to my existing keys (especially if it can be done for $20). The problem I could see here is if your keys are quite worn.

J. M. van Swaay · #9 05-18-2010, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treiberg

Duh!! My problem was that I was not in position #1. For some reason, I was thinking that position #1 is where the hole would line up with the first notch on the black collar...wrong!

Don't feel bad, I did the exact same thing! After correctly identifying position 1, I had it out in 10 seconds...............

J. M. van Swaay

samiam44 · #10 05-18-2010, 12:44 PM

You can order a new cylinder from the dealership already key'd by your VIN.

M

treiberg · #11 05-18-2010, 01:22 PM

(You can order a new cylinder from the dealership already key'd by your VIN.)

That is a good point, but I was just trying to save money. Hopefully, less than $40 including re-keying, versus around $90+ at dealership (based on what I read on the forum).

ps2cho · #12 05-18-2010, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treiberg

(You can order a new cylinder from the dealership already key'd by your VIN.)

That is a good point, but I was just trying to save money. Hopefully, less than $40 including re-keying, versus around $90+ at dealership (based on what I read on the forum).

$90? Try like $150! That is what I was quoted.

fred1948 · #13 05-18-2010, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

$90? Try like $150! That is what I was quoted.

Sounds like the prices are all over the map.
I just looked up my receipt from 10/12/09 and I paid $75 plus $6 tax at the local MB dealership and I don't get any special discounts.
This was for a 1995 W124 and the part number was 126-460-02-04. The description is "lock cylinder". It does not mention in any of the documentation at the dealer that this also includes the key. The parts person that I spoke with assured me that it would come with a key, and he was right.

I wonder if some of the higher quotes are including the price of a key in addition to the cylinder?

Gerard · #14 05-18-2010, 06:33 PM

I replaced my ignition barrel a few years back with a second hand unit, but never liked being on 2 keys. Then my drivers door started acting up. So I bit the bullet and ordered 2 barrels (door and ign) and a spare key from Merc. It cost around £180STG (ordered it in Northern Ireland, I dont like the dealers in Ireland) which is around 240-260 USD......depending which day we calculate.
I normally dont spend so much on my car, doing all my own work and I use second hand and OEM parts where possible. Although expensive...I'm happy I did it as I have the car over 6 years, and its one simple but enjoyable improvement.

treiberg · #15 05-22-2010, 08:16 PM

Popped my new cylinder in place and think I will just use two sets of keys, one for doors and one for ignition. The upside is that both the key and lock are new, so they should last a long time (another 19 years?). That might outlive the car.

Another very good thread that I wish I would have found prior to starting this job (great pics and explanations): W124 Lock Cylinder Replacement: How-to