W123 Vickers type 24 power steering pump questions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #1 06-03-2010, 05:17 AM

G'day Folks,

I'm trying to re-seal my power steering pump. It is a Vickers type 24, 65 bar, model that seems to be fitted to most W123s I've seen.

I'm a bit stuck trying to get the pulley off (everything has been pretty much stuck fast on this car so far). There is an arrangement with woodruff key on the shaft that helps to hold the pulley in place but perhaps is also making it harder to take off!

Question 1

How have people before me removed their pulley's - pullers, bashing and heat?

Question 2

Is there a special tool - a partially circular socket (like two half moons facing each other) - available for undoing the nut inside on the other end of the pulley shaft to release the inner bits?

Any help will be greatly appreciated (before I just install the secondhand replacement I got and hope for the best!)

mbdoc · #2 06-03-2010, 08:17 AM

I use a puller on the pulley, loosen the nut & use the grooves on the end of the pulley &
the bolt of the puller on the end of the shaft with the nut still on.

Stretch · #3 06-06-2010, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M.B.DOC

I use a puller on the pulley, loosen the nut & use the grooves on the end of the pulley &
the bolt of the puller on the end of the shaft with the nut still on.

Thanks for the tip. I used a puller like you said but some one before me who had painted the pump got paint to stick between the shaft and the pulley. In the end I used puller, fire, and hammer to get the BLEEPing thing off. The pulley got damaged.

I didn't realise this but you just need to tap out the shaft from the housing once the pulley has been removed.

Unfortunately as it was a bit stuck the vanes all fell out before I could see which way they go back in.

I assume you need to put them in this way

Is this correct? The vanes have a sharp flat end and a curved cornered end. I'm guessing the curved corners go on the outer side of the rotor so that they don't scratch the stator.

Am I right? (Just checking)

Stretch · #4 06-08-2010, 08:53 AM

Does anyone know where I can find the correct identification number for these pumps? The number stamped into the little black identification plate on the front does not help the dealer find the parts that I need.

According to the dealer Vickers changed these pumps 3 times and introduced three different sealing kits and two different shaft seals.

Stretch · #5 06-09-2010, 04:57 PM

I think I found the correct part number for the dealer. It is embossed on the side of the casting - I had to take an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment to take away all the crud and crud mingled paint off.

Can anyone confirm the position of the vanes shown in the photographs above?

oldiesel · #6 06-10-2010, 06:24 PM

Vanes are in the correct orientation for a normal hydraulic pump,i have no experience with that particular pump but for what its worth that is how i would put them. Don

Stretch · #7 06-11-2010, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldiesel

Vanes are in the correct orientation for a normal hydraulic pump,i have no experience with that particular pump but for what its worth that is how i would put them. Don

Thank you very much for the reply - it looks about right doesn't it?

Stretch · #8 07-25-2010, 02:48 PM

Well I've got my mits on a FSM and the vanes do indeed go in as shown above.

The bit that goes around the vanes also needs to be in the correct way.
There is an arrow cast into this bit to show the direction of rotation.

I had a miserable time getting the pump to work after I had carefully cleaned it, resealed it, and put it back together. I was convinced that I had put it back together properly and in the end that proved to be correct... although I took it on and off the car another FIVE times before I found out what was wrong.

I went through 5 litres of ATF getting it to work and all that was wrong was a tiny bit of grit on an internal shuttle valve...

...as it is often said here what a PITA!

I'll post some pictures of the offending part when I get them off of the camera.

Yak · #9 07-25-2010, 08:23 PM

Did you also replace the rear seals? I did mine about a month ago. The rear o-ring was leaking. That repair is pretty straightforward. You only need a C-clamp. You can see the bad O-ring.

Strife · #10 07-25-2010, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

Question 2

Is there a special tool - a partially circular socket (like two half moons facing each other) - available for undoing the nut inside on the other end of the pulley shaft to release the inner bits?

Any help will be greatly appreciated (before I just install the secondhand replacement I got and hope for the best!)

There really is a tool specifically made to remove these - I THINK it's a SIR tool - I bought it ($80!) but I don't know if it is still available. It makes this job pretty simple. The pulley is stamped and very easy to damage. The tool is a bolt pulling back on two pretty tough steel half-circles captive in a metal shell.

Yak · #11 07-25-2010, 10:36 PM

I wonder if the $8 HF puller would work? Doesn't do Army in NL any good, but it might work for someone else.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/automotive-pulley-puller-66868.html

Stretch · #12 07-26-2010, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

Did you also replace the rear seals? I did mine about a month ago. The rear o-ring was leaking. That repair is pretty straightforward. You only need a C-clamp. You can see the bad O-ring.

Hi Yak - yes I did a complete reseal - the front pinion seal as well - this bit wasn't necessary, but for 10 euros I hope it turns out to be good preventative maintenance.

Stretch · #13 07-26-2010, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strife

There really is a tool specifically made to remove these - I THINK it's a SIR tool - I bought it ($80!) but I don't know if it is still available. It makes this job pretty simple. The pulley is stamped and very easy to damage. The tool is a bolt pulling back on two pretty tough steel half-circles captive in a metal shell.

Wow that's exactly what I needed. I did indeed kill one pulley as some kipper (before me) covered => painted the whole steering pump which effectively glued the pulley into place.

I've seen pictures that people have posted showing a three legged puller pulling the pulley off, and that is what I tried with the original pulley. If anyone doesn't have the correct puller I'd advise them to protect the back of the pulley as best as they can and then use a copper drift and a hammer to remove it. I've found you do a lot less damage.

Strife - do you happen to have a product number for that tool?

(I've tried searching through SIR tool listings before but often find it hard to get the one I need - they make so many!)

Stretch · #14 07-26-2010, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yak

I wonder if the $8 HF puller would work? Doesn't do Army in NL any good, but it might work for someone else.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/automotive-pulley-puller-66868.html

I tried several options similar to this over here - the pictures look great on the internet but when they arrived all of the ends of the pullers were too thick to fit in the little groove...

...That SIR tool looks the best so far to me!

jimmypete · #15 09-12-2010, 04:12 PM

I think that SIR tool is no longer made. Anyone know what mm size the pulley is? I have read rumors that OTC Tools 4681 puller will work. Check e-bay for them - around $50. Supposed to remove and install press-fit pulleys with a hub diameter of 1-1/8" (28mm), 1-1/4" (32mm), 1-5/16" (34mm), or 1-3/8" (35mm).