129 top contoller codes - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

chronodeco · #1 08-02-2004, 12:21 PM

I checked my top codes on our 1990 300SL this weekend. Pretty easy to do - my top and rollbar lights have been on for about a month now but everything still works so I am not in a panic to fix this. I got codes: 10, 16 and 23 and was able to remove 10 but 16 and 23 remain. I know what 23 is so I'm hoping that I don't need another controller. Could someone please advise on checking the # 16 - roll bar limit switch not retracted? I'd like to try to fix this first. I have read several previous posts on this but this code repair is not all that clear. Thanks, Craig

bobterry99 · #2 08-02-2004, 12:58 PM

You can check the switch and its wiring to the controller. The switch is wired between chassis ground and pin 31 of the "Y" connector to the soft top controller. The controller is under the plastic cover in the storage area behind the passenger seat, and the "Y" connector is the long one. To test, you'll need to disconnect "Y". If you have difficulty seperating it from the controller, you'll find it is very easy if you take the time to remove the two 10mm nuts and un-mount the controller from the chassis. Resistance between Y31 and ground should be 0-5 ohms with the bar lowered and open circuit with it not lowered.

Regarding the roll bar, you can run diagnostics on that as well by checking socket 7 of the diagnostic connector. You'll need an LED to see the pulses.

The location of the roll bar switch is on the left side of the car as shown below.

chronodeco · #3 08-02-2004, 01:48 PM

Thanks for all of your help. I used your older posts to do the code checks. I have had the controller out before so I will check that 1st. For the socket 7 test, will a volt meter with an LED display work or do I need something special for that? Looks like a ''fun'' job if I have to get to that switch. Craig

bobterry99 · #4 08-04-2004, 12:21 AM

You may be able to use a voltmeter as well as an LED for checking codes of the other systems. If you find yourself needing an LED, I recommend Radio Shack's LED with an integrated resistor PN 276-209.

LeaUK · #5 08-04-2004, 02:19 AM

Bob

Great image you posted there - does it come from Starfinder by any-chance? If not maybe from the DVD?

I find those 2D drawing rather horrible sometimes and by having 'real' photos had got to be a boon.

Cheers
Lea

bobterry99 · #6 08-05-2004, 09:54 AM

The image is Starfinder, Lea, and I got it from a German website. It's under "Teilefinder". Did you get my PM?

A couple other notes. I got a bootleg of the DVD for $25 and expect to evaluate it in a few days. And I wired-up a pulse counter for reading diagnostic codes. No longer have to stare at an LED and count the number of flashes. Required just a pair of integrated circuits, a two-digit LED display, and two transistors -- all for about $12. Next step will be to automate erasing codes.

chronodeco · #7 08-12-2004, 03:03 PM

Hi again - I tried to read the rollbar codes (pins 1 to 7) with a led volt meter last weekend but was unsuccessful. I need a more detailed discription of this proceedure and a list of the codes at this location. IE: do you short 1 and 7 for the same times as 1 and 10 to start (2 to 4 seconds) the codes and then clear (6 to 8 seconds) the codes?
Thanks, Craig
Early 1990 300SL

bobterry99 · #8 08-12-2004, 05:33 PM

The procedure for checking socket #7 is the same as for #10 as you suspected, Craig. The LED from Radio Shack connects from socket #16 (12-volts DC) to the socket being checked (#7 in your case). The LED will blink just like the lamp in the convertible top switch did when checking socket #10. Important: the LED is polarity-sensitive. If you connect it backwards, no damage will come but the LED will never blink or turn on.