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#16
11-02-2004, 07:37 AM
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I got mine open last night by drilling through the chrome strip at 3 o'clock per Gilly's instructions.
1. Use a punch to center the hole about 1/4" to the right of the key cylinder at 3 o'clock 2. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole, angle it very slightly to toward the lock. Keep the hole horizontal. You will drill through the chrome strip. Then there is a gap of about 1/4" and you drill through the body/trunk edge. 3. Enlage the hole with 1/4" or 5/16" bit - I used the larger size because it was a lot sharper. When the larger bit went through, it hit the latch mechanism and the trunk popped open. But you may have to poke around with a rod, small screwdriver or such. [Added] Just got the latch out. The vacuum feature does not actually lock the trunk. It has a little cam that moves between the latch and the plate on the back when you lock the door. It prevents the rod on the back of the key cylinder from pushing the latch back to open the lid. So if this is your problem, you need to have a little L-shaped tool that you can use to push this out of the way. Then you can push in on the button and voila! Trust me, there are five large Phillips screws holding the latch. Two on the trunk lid and three on the body. Four of the five are on the horizontal surfaces that close on each other - no way to get to them through the taillight.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe Last edited by ctaylor738; 11-02-2004 at 08:06 AM. 
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#17
11-04-2004, 12:03 PM
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I got it open using the method above.
The small clip fell off that holds the arm to the cylinder. I would reccomend that unless you want to go through this and have to buy a peice of trim. That a dab of JB weld will save you from doing this. Thanks everyone for the help. Steve
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#18
11-05-2004, 07:49 AM
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Guess What?
So I had the lock working perfectly with the trunk open, but the first time I actually closed it, it would not unlock. I think the problem is with the black plastic piece that is controlled by the arm. It has a lot of play in it, making it bind against the trunk edge on the bottom in the "lock" position.
I am going to see if MB offers the plastic piece separately. With the hole drilled, though, no problem to open the trunk. I'm glad that you were able to get yours fixed.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#19
11-28-2010, 01:02 AM
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My W107 - 79 450SL - With 4.5 v8 - has been sitting since it broke while I went through 'meltdown' and NOW I want to open trunk and replace battery etc. to start 'resurrection'. Is there a way to connect under hood to charge the line to the trunk then turn the trunk key??
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#20
11-29-2010, 12:28 PM
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You might be able to jump/charge the battery from the large connector just behind the coolant reservoir under the hood. With engine running, you should have enough vacuum to get it open. The cable runs directly from the engine bay to the battery, with no fuses or any components, so charging from there would be easily doable.
Just a suggestion, Scott
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Remember, it's not just a car. It's an Adventure.
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