450sl Dash/IP removal

[supercanuck]

I have a 1980 450sl, and i'm looking to get into the IP to fix the odometer and clock. Does anyone have instructions for removal of the Dash to get to the IP?

Thanks!

[c107]

The instrument panel is one module that can be removed without taking out the entire dash.

Disconnect the battery or you could wind up with some of the contacts arcing to ground and popping the fuse that controls the panel.

First you have to remove the steering wheel. You can either pry out the Mercedes Logo on the center or just pull off the entire horn pad to expose either a nut or (more likely) a 10mm Allen Bolt.

The instrument panel is held in by friction created by a rubber gasket-type item that surrounds the panel. You might be able to just wiggle it loose with your hands, but if the panel has never been off before, you can either get a tool which is just a rod with a hook on the end to grab the panel and pull forward. Or, it can be made out of coat hanger. Search here for instrument panel removal. I have had mine in and out so much that the rubber material has ripped and, while still snug, can be pulled out by hand easily.

When the panel is popped loose, the first thing you will need to unscrew is the speedo cable. There is not a lot of room to work with until you can get the speedo cable loose. It should be able to be loosened by hand.

Next, you'll need a 10mm wrench to remove the line to the oil pressure gauge. Once these lines are removed, you can further pull the panel forward and you will be able to see the several connections you will need to remove to get the entire panel out.

While it's out, take the time to clean everything and, if you're adventurous, repaint the gauge needles. Some have recommended using Testors RC78 Fluorescent orange. It is extremely sharp in dayglo colors, but not really true to the original color (much more red tone.) You can search for that too.

An excellent method to clean the odometer numbers is to use Simple Green liquid (full strength) and a Q-Tip.

Steve

[Strife]

Two small tips:

1. There are instructions on the Internet for making your own pullers out of piano wire. I found this at a hobby shop, used for making landing gear for model airplanes. It cost $2.00. This is stronger, and thinner, than coathanger wire. I would advise agains coathanger wire because it is thick, and the vinyl covering of the dash is old and brittle and you can crack the covering by distorting it (I know this from firsthand experience). When you remove the dash distort the surrounding padding as little as possible. It may be worthwhile to just get the tools from a supplier - they aren't very expensive.

2. If you paint the needles, be very careful with the oil gauge. I painted mine and although it turned out well, I may have put the paint on a bit too thick and it "stuck" to the 0 stop upon startup until I drove around a bit for several months afterwards. This was, I assure you, a very uncomfortable situation. The reason was, I beleive, that the paint was still a bit soft and caused the needle to stick to the 0 stop. Maybe avoiding that spot would be a good idea.

[kip Foss]

To prevent major catastrophe take the keys out of the ignition and put them in your pocket. If you remove the instrument panel, which includes unscrewing the oil gauge, and happen to start the car you are in for a BIG mess. You will get a stream of 50psi oil all over you, your seats, the carpets, and possibly the headliner depending on which way the oil tube is pointed.

I did this on my 300d and filled the floor pan with very black engine oil. Fortunately the carpets were out but the clean up used most of the rest ot the day and a lot of rags and thinner.