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#1
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82 SL Hardtop rear glass dropped down during storage
After storing wy hardtop verticaly for 2 years as they sit on the storage trollys The Rear window has sunk down so that it is not sealed at the top any more, a good 3/4 of an inch. Has this happened to any to anyone else?
Hope it can be removed and reinstalled without it breaking. Damian |
#2
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82 SL Hardtop rear glass dropped down during storage
Should not happen. The Stainless mouldings, besides the windscreen adhesive should have held it in place. Be CAREFUL, very, very careful with that rear glass. It's laminated as opposed to usual american saftey glass. Check for bubbles in the glass, if there are any, it's the start of delamination of the two pieces of glass that is your rear screen. If bubbles are present you have to be extremely careful removing the glass as this is now a weak spot. Either way, the rear glass is very, very expensive new. Either remove it yourself or have a mobile windscreen fitter remove and reseal it on site.
Get a quote for a new replacement first, that will provide you with the amount of respect the handling of the rear glass deserves. Good luck. |
#3
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Loose Glass
My hardtop glass is loose all around. The three pieces of glass don't rattle, but when I clean the car, I feel it shift around as I clean the glass. Water also wicks up into the lower edge of the back window glass. It dries out eventually, but this is Seattle...
Is this something I should have fixed professionally or try DIY? Scott 1974 450SL with 211K |
#4
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Will any shops do it?
I have had a loose rear windshield for a few years. With the 225/50/16s it rattles. I used some rubber between the glass and moldings to keep it in place but would love to have it resealed. The procedure is in the manual but I have not gotten close to doing it. I have had at least 5 glass shops turn me down, including the one the dealer uses. I cannot find anyone who will do this job for me. I am quite unhappy about it. I forget in the summer and live with it in the winter. I run 205/70/15s in the winter so it doesn‘t rattle as much but I would love it to be resealed. Any suggestions? Anyone done it? How about heating the seal with the wires to a battery (as detailed in the manual)? Advice?
__________________
Steve 1985 Mercedes 500SL Euro (Gray market) 1995 BMW 520i Euro (Gray market) 1992 BMW 525it Wagon 1994 Honda Del Sol Si |
#5
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Well Guys what Ive found out so far is that the side trims on the rear glass will diffinately stop it from shifting sidways, although this wouldn't be any cause for concern. I can't however see how the bottom trim would stop it from shifting down? It seems to screw in from underneath and be hollow inside, am I missing something? Maybe something has been left out from when it was painted?
They have also painted the rear piece of trim that sits right up against the bottom of the glass, not the removable trim but a thin piece that seem to be glued in. Is this ment to be the same color as the rest of the interior? Good news on on part though, if you were woundering how to remove the glass, yes it comes out easily if you apply a car battery to the thermoseal wires. I however used a power supply varied the current around about 7 amps for ten to 15 minutes. After a small bit of smoke and being carefull not to allow the hot wires to touch the interior trim, it come out quite easily. the aid of some suction handles made it easier, but I'm sure you could carefully push it out from inside. For those who are interested the cold resistance of the wire was about 1.6 ohms. So on a car battery it would draw close to 7.5 amps and reduce a bit when it heats up. Useing this method you would just have to be more carefull not to short the terminals and you wouldn't have as much control over the speed or amount it heats up. thanks for you replies Damian |
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