Battery went dead, soft top no worky, ABS light on, more.. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tecqboy · #16 10-21-2005, 08:52 PM

Are we talking about a 1991 300SL or what? Lot's of bad (mis guided) advice here because car model and year was not specified in the original post. Sorry to be so blunt, but it's difficult to help because these 129's evolved rather radically over the 12 years they were produced. While synchonizing windows works in later models, it has no effect in early ones. The modules and electronics, even the engines are very much changed after 1995. Also, it can make a difference whether the car is USA or world market. As a reminder to all those who are looking for help; please include as much info as possible.

waybomb · #17 10-21-2005, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tecqboy

Are we talking about a 1991 300SL or what? Lot's of bad (mis guided) advice here because car model and year was not specified in the original post. Sorry to be so blunt, but it's difficult to help because these 129's evolved rather radically over the 12 years they were produced. While synchonizing windows works in later models, it has no effect in early ones. The modules and electronics, even the engines are very much changed after 1995. Also, it can make a difference whether the car is USA or world market. As a reminder to all those who are looking for help; please include as much info as possible.

The car is a 91 300SL, WDBFA61E8MF026531.
I did some searching per bobterry99's advice and printed off a bunch of the found posts. I'll try resetting it in the am.
Thanks

tecqboy · #18 10-21-2005, 09:45 PM

When clearing the codes on the top controller, be sure to clear the codes at least twice. Just keep going through the clear/erase sequence over and over until you are down to one flash. One flash = OK. That's just the way it works.

Roll Bar Codes and Reset Procedure.

To recover: Short pin 7 to ground (Pin 1) with LED + to pin 16 (+12V)

Code 1 = No faults in system.
Code 2 = Roll Bar Control Unit
Code 3 = Voltage Supply
Code 4 = Driver Seat Belt Lock Relay (K18/2) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 5 = Passenger Seat Belt Lock Relay (K18/3) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 6 = Roll Bar Deployment Solenoid (Y57/1) open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 7 = Left and/or right rear axle switch open or short circuit to terminal 30 and/or 31
Code 8 = Roll Bar Warning Lamp
Code 9 = Roll Bar Warning Lamp and/or impulse counter held too long to erase malfunctions
Code 10 = SRS Control Unit

Mercedes Soft Top Controller Reset Procedure.

At diagnostic connector (under the plastic cover at the hood-up switch) on
the passenger side near strut mount.

To recover codes for the soft top controller:

Connect shorting switch between pin 1 and pin 10

Short 2 to 4 seconds to read error code.
Lamp in top switch will flash out a number of pulses.

Short 6 to 8 seconds to erase error code.

Some codes must be read twice before they will erase.

The codes that will suspend operation of a soft top on the early R129 are 21, 22, 26, and 30.

A code of "1" indicates no faults and no hard top in place, while a code of "20" indicates no faults and the hard top is assumed to be on the car.

3.= Limit switch, right locked ,soft top storage compartment cover.
4 = left compartment cover closed switch
5 = right compartment cover closed switch
6.= left front latch switch.

10.= left rear latch switch.
11.= right front latch switch.

16 = roll bar retracted switch
17 = Left window failed to lower (limit switch open)
18.= Right window failed to lower (limit switch open).

20 = Hard top installed, no faults.

23 = roll bar control unit not functioning.

25.= contradicting inputs.

27 = insufficient voltage
28.= Speedometer signal is missing.
29.= Wheel speed from ABS control module missing.
30 = Top operation disabled (due to #29).

waybomb · #19 10-22-2005, 06:02 PM

Well, I didn't get to it this morning - took my boat out of the water for the winter and worked on it all day. So, tomoroow am I am digging ointo this.
Everybody - thanks!!!!!

waybomb · #20 10-23-2005, 01:00 PM

Ya Baby!
Soft top works and engine runs fine, and ABS light out.

What I found:
OVP relay had one of the 10 amp fuses bad. It looked ok, but tested bad. Replaced it and car started and runs fine. Only issue left is the vacuum / miles per gallon gage stays at 30 plus.

Soft top - I think every code on the list came up, and then some. Cleared them all, got the single flash, and all works fine.

So, my only remaininmg problem is the vacuum gage reads 30 plus miles per gallon. I wish it were true. I'd like to fix it. Any ideas.

And again - everyone here - thanks a bunch!

tecqboy · #21 10-23-2005, 02:15 PM

Great! A little knowledge can save lots of money. I have no experience with the MPG gauge except to point out that it is not a vacuum guage. Someone with electrical diagrams will need to help out. I believe the MPG guage takes the tach pulse (vehicle speed ) that is also used by radio volume control and the wiper intermittent speed and integrates it with a signal from a fuel flow sensor. Really need the Alldata info for this.

waybomb · #22 10-23-2005, 02:56 PM

Just got back from a long ride on the highway. The miles-per-gallon gage started working all by itself. Maybe a wet or corroded connection someplace. Anyway, the car is back to 100%.
All of this because I let the battery go dead.
So, y'all solved my problems, so can any of you bring back the 85 degree sunny days? Right now it is about 50 and rainy. Yuk.

LeaUK · #23 10-26-2005, 02:29 AM

Glad you resolved your problems even through the 'bad advice' - fuse the culprit again!

The MPG gauge and associated electronics is housed within the instrument cluster (IC) and samples the engine rpm. May be a dry joint within the IC - let's hope not - watch out for this to reappear.

Hope for sun and enjoy.

Lea