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#16
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Quote:
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RM Smith 1988 560SL "Where is it again that we are going, and why are we in this handbasket"? |
#17
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Ive been concerend with over heating my 560SL since i first bought it. and i will tell you after many trips to the mechanics and after enless reading on websites. trust me ,it is normal for the engines to run hot, even close to redline. i know it sounds crazy, but these cars do run hot. its perfectly ok!
its something i never get used too! but it is what it is..... |
#18
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How hot is hot? My 79 450SLC has the temp gauge
is in F degrees, mine runs at 175 degrees to 200 degrees, normal for this car. The owners manual and the shop manual say, when the gauge gets into the red then worry. As far as the digital servo replacement. If that is your concern send it to Performance analysis in Tenn and they will rebuilt it for you. I understand but don't know for sure, these digital servo is not a plug and use arrangement. Also performance, wi replace the plasitc body with aluminium, which is lengthened the life span. I think I wrote in another post, you have to back flush and change your anit freez every two years, YOU ALSO REMOVE THE SERVO, to back flush as stuff can get in there and foul it. I have a hose that connects from the engine to the heater core after the servo is out so you can back flush the heater core also, as anti freeze from the heater core passes thru the servo also. I am still topping off the anti freeze daily as the heater core takes a lot of anti freeze the anti freez ran out for quite a while before clean water did. But it also gets warmer and wamer each time I use it. Yestersay the ambient temp was such the AC kicked in, now I am satisfied everything is working. I top off with distilled water and not antifreez. The mixture is very crictical 55% water and 45% anti freeze is the proper mixture for the 4.5L V8 and it predecessors. Not 50/50 as on most cars. Don't worry as long as your not in the read, but do post how hot the engine does get?
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Al Lueb 1999 C280 54K miles 1979 450 SLC 144K miles |
#19
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Quote:
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#20
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overheating?
I have an 450sl 1977 and this is just my opinion. I think that everything you have done was unnecessary! Temp variation from 175 to 200 plus is average and normal for a 107. None of your indications warranted radiator cleanout, thermostat replacement,etc. Just a case of changing parts with no reason,Sorry to be so blunt. Regards,Abe G PS with 135000 miles and water pump replacement only for cooling system.
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#21
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Quote:
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#22
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Quote:
One thing to check is that the proper thermostat is in the car. The old SLs use a 75C thermostat while the newer ones use 84C. Presumably they increased the operating temperature for environmental reasons.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#23
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ruunnng hotter
In my opinion, anything up to 210 F steady reading on hot run is normal. Just about what I stated previously, 175 to 200 plus, really no porblem. Regards,Abe G
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#24
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Quote:
If this is true. Why did the original posters car run normal at 175 forever then all of a sudden run hotter? Mine is doing the same thing now and I don’t know what’s going on. It almost reaches the 200F but goes down as I drove and it’s at a good driving condition it nears 175 but never goes down from that till the engine is off and cooling down for the day. But again. Mine is doing this now and didn’t run this hot ever. I had a 1974 450Sl ten years ago and it didn’t run past 175. Any insight or idea what is going on with that? |
#25
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If it’s not problem why does the normal operating temp say 175 and it stays there? Why would it go hot at all if not malfunctioning?
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#26
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It's interesting that you picked up a conversation/debate in a 14 year old thread.
Regardless, boiling point of water is 212F/100C. That is increased by about 45F/25C with the 15psi cap on the tank/radiator, bringing the boiling point to about 257F/125C. Nobody should worry about 200F/94C on their gauge, unless the gauge is way off, their pressure cap isn't working, they're running straight water, or have a combination of these bad things. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
#27
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I found this thread because it’s valuable information. Also. The factory books say the normal operating temp is 175*. Regardless if 200 is okay for these 107’s. I don’t believe it’s normal. Why have a temperature gauge at all if the temp doesn’t matter?
I don’t think my gauge is broken. It’s not the fan clutch. But the fan before I replaced the clutch wasn’t blowing a mass amount of air like it normally did before it over heated. It has to be something else. I’m working currently on replacing the thermostat. When I squeeze the bottom hose when the car is off. I can hear like a single tone like a ring or bell as I squeeze the hose. It’s coming from the thermostat housing part of the water pump. Anyway. Is that normal for it to do that? I imagine it like a blown light bulb with the filament rolling around in there. So I imagine while there is something metal rolling around in there. I don’t know. You said to not worry about 200 on the gauge. But I am worried because everything is so hot when I lift the hood. The hood. Everything is hot. When before this all happened wasn’t hot. Just the valve covers and parts near it. Not everything. I replaced my reservoir cap too. It’s holding pressure. Thank you Josh |
#28
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If it was mine I'd start with flushing the cooling system with CRC ThermoCure and replace the thermostat. After thorough rinsing replace the coolant with no more than 50% coolant and the rest water. Add a bottle of RedLine WaterWetter.
Good luck!!!
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#29
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My car has stopped staying hot. When I drive in town it stays between 175-200. When I’m on the interstate or the car in at a steady speed it stays at 175. Still working out the kinks.
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#30
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Josh is the radiator original? If it were mine and radiator was original I'd remove it and either replace or have it recored.
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Jim |
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