door window catching 107

[xkeots]

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Hi Jack
The answer is no. There are three adjustments you should check. The first two are the front and rear window upstops, the third is the actuator arm upstop. The actuator has an upstop and a downstop, and is capable of bending things if those stops are incorrectly adjusted. They limit the up and down travel of the actuator arm. The front and rear window upstops are located under the inner door panel, at the top of the inner door frame area.

When the glass is correctly aligned and adjusted, the front upper edge of the window pane will just touch the rubber seal when the door engages the first stage of the door lock. (Use the rear guide rail and front lower guide rail adjustments to adjust for this.) With the door completely closed, the pane should rest in it's complete length against the inner lip of the front/top rubber seal. The door pane should clear the outer lip when the door is closed. (use the upstops to adjust for this)

The glass pane should be adjusted fore and aft so that when it is up it is fully seated in the rubber seal at the front. (Use the front lifting rail adjustment screws to adjust for this.)

The glass pane should contact the rubber seal evenly, height-wise. (Use the rear lifting rail adjustment to adjust for this.) On my '82 380SL, the actuator arm was actually bent because the actuator upstop was incorrectly adjusted, causing the rear of the glass to be over 1/2" too low, which was too much to adjust for with the rear lifting rail adjustments. It was necessary to straighten the actuator arm to repair this problem.

Whenever you work on a door, be sure to replace the protective plastic sheeting under the inner door panel, it keeps the inner door panel from disintegrating when it rains.

Regards,

Richard,

Thanks for your time.
Should I adjust it with the hard top on first or the soft top on?

Jack
1980 450 SL

[Richard Wooldridge]

Hi Jack,
Good question - The factory manual says that if you have a hand crank 350SL (probably what was around when the procedure was written) you should adjust to the roadster top first, then adjust/shim the coupe top. BUT, here in rainy Washington, I almost always have the coupe top on, so my preference is to adjust the coupe top so it has no wind noise, then adjust/shim the roadster top to be as satisfactory as possible. I have both the earlier and the later factory manuals, but they both read the same in this section (section 72).

Regards,

[xkeots]

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Hi Jack,
Good question - The factory manual says that if you have a hand crank 350SL (probably what was around when the procedure was written) you should adjust to the roadster top first, then adjust/shim the coupe top. BUT, here in rainy Washington, I almost always have the coupe top on, so my preference is to adjust the coupe top so it has no wind noise, then adjust/shim the roadster top to be as satisfactory as possible. I have both the earlier and the later factory manuals, but they both read the same in this section (section 72).

Regards,

Hi Richard,

Here in New York I get a chance for a drop top for about 5-6 months.
I had the factory manuals and I sold them on Ebay last year and I sold my original Becker Mexico 6 months ago never expecting to have the urge to get another w107 but I got bit a few months back.
I had 2 brand new 450sl's a 1977 & a 1980 and I sold my last one in 95.
After a 10 year draught I needed one. I bought a 1980 450 sl with 63,000 original miles that sat under lawn furniture and everything else in a garage for about 10 years. My sister-in-law gave me her 85 380 sl with 155,000 to sell for her so I had 2 to choose from. I decided on the 450 as it is a better car (it needs small things and paint. The 380 needed that and more). I sold the 380 to my neighbor.
I bought a cd manual but it doesn't work correctly on an Apple. I am not used to working on Me/Be but I am getting there through this list.
Thanks for your help

Jack
1980 450 SL
1989 560 SEC

[DanielG]

Sorry to revive a really old post -- but this one seems to have the correct answers but the pictures are no longer available (the rest of the results of my search were not as good). Can anyone fill in the gaps?

I have a 87 560sl with a left front window that sits too high and forward.

John Roncallo did you ever post your DIY write-up on correcting this? I would appreciate a link.

Thanks!

[Roncallo]

Originally Posted by DanielG

Sorry to revive a really old post -- but this one seems to have the correct answers but the pictures are no longer available (the rest of the results of my search were not as good). Can anyone fill in the gaps?

I have a 87 560sl with a left front window that sits too high and forward.

John Roncallo did you ever post your DIY write-up on correcting this? I would appreciate a link.

Thanks!

Oh the things we promise in the heat of the battle. Sorry I never got the DIY yet. See the Component Picture Thread (Sticky)

John Roncallo

[DanielG]

Thank you -- found it!