86SL Rad neck spout

[Louis M]

I sure wish i would of known when i bought my [Shania] - name i use for my 560 that the weakest part on a Benz is the part where the top rad hose is mounted to the neck with the hose clamp and that a person should put a piece of pipe inside it so when you tighten the rad hose it doesn't crack and break the neck . Well low and behold here i am now with the neck broke off and have the rad hose clamped on to the rad with only mabye a 1/4 of an inch and mickey moused to hold it there with wire. I'm sure it was cracked when i bought it. So what's my alternative buy a complete new rad? she 's a 86' Louis Caroline Alberta Canada

[Strife]

This has been discussed before (also happens on other MB's)...but I don't think there is any real peace of mind choice but to get another radiator. After it is broken I don't think there is any glue of any kind that will really hold for any length of time. This is not an area to fool around with because a sudden loss of coolant when the engine is hot (on the highway) can warp the heads on any aluminum engine, not just MB's...

Be aware that it is thought that bad motor mounts contribute to this breakage, the top hose pulls on the radiator neck when there is excessive engine movement.

That being said, an aftermarket radiator is not really all that expensive and (having just pulled my radiator to clean it) it's very easy to remove and to replace, taking nothing more than a screwdriver to do. Messy, but rather easy. And a good opportunity to replace the hoses.

[nhdoc]

Consider an all brass/coppper aftermarket replacement. I bought a good aftermarket radiator from a place in texas that advertises in the star. Here is a copy of their ad:

New Radiators: for 280/380/450/560SL, W107 chassis; W124 chassis, heavy-duty, 300E/CE/TE. Tigris International, Box 42408, Houston, TX 77242; 713/628-1362; tigrisint@yahoo.com.

The one I got was about $300 including shipping...in my opinion it is much better than the plastic/aluminum ones made by Behr and Valejo and less expensive too. Mine didn't break at the neck but a seam along the side where the plastic is crimped to the aluminum was weaping...another common fault. At least with this brass/copper unit I can get it fixed if it starts leaking but it has been in there over a year so far with no trouble.

[Dee8go]

Why do they break so easily? Is the plastic not thick enough on the neck? Has MB changed this at some point?

[Louis M]

Ok thanks guys i'll look here in Canada for a good aftermarket if not i'll contact the address above and yes that's for sure that this is not too play around with.I'm getting the ol' girl completetly redone, all chrome off , the whole bit so i'll take the rad out at the same time, thanks again --Louis

[jml214]

Ok: Here is the real bottom line.

The plastic tank on the passenger side needs to be replaced. Try Pacific Radiator in North Hollywood CA USA
Phone 1-818 761 5195. They replaced mine with NOS part. If he has both, get both. They can be attached at any good radiator shop in Canada. It's a an easy out radiator be sure that you do the tansmission cooling lines carefully.

Charlie Mosier, the manager said that the plastic gets very hot if the amount of coolant flowing in is reduced, which weakens the plastic and it becomes brittle so always be sure that your reservoir is at the correct level.
Good luck be patient. Monty

[Louis M]

Ok, will do. Didn't know about the tranny lines.I read on a a tip that you should put a pipe inside for added strenth.Took the number down, thanks a bunch. Louis

[Jim B.]

You caught the problem just in time, no damage done.

I'd luckily heard about this too ahead of time, so at 75k I took the car into a dealer andhad the radiator (all the OEMs came with radiators with unreinforced hose necks) had it replaced with a new Behr radiator, (with the reinforced hose neck), new coolant and hoses and was good to go.

You should be fine after this. Also,, good preventative maintenance on these motors, change the timing chain, tensioners, and the plastic chain guide rails
(these too are made of plastic and deteriorate after time) each 100k or so, and your motor will be everlasting. My mechanic had an SL whose owner had the timing chain and tensioner changed at another shop but DID NOT do the guide rails, and the new timing chain slipped because of that and ruined the engine. Took it back and put in another timing chain (same shop) and ruined the engine a SECOND time. Finally took it to the mechanic I use, who found the guide rails in pieces this time. 3rd time, it will be done by the mechanic who understood about the guide rails....

At 100k I'd even consider replacing the injectors also.

But don't worry, the R107 was a GREAT model, the run was for 18 years, and they were VERY good models, so you'll have yours for a long time!!

[Louis M]

Man oh man , you got me thinking now, got 140,000 klicks -drove it 3,000 klicks since the crash of the towers cause that's when i came out of the hospital from a lukemia bone marrow transplant from my brother and bought it who-- was a 8-8 match. Ha when i was in the hospital i said if i can get the heck out of here alive i've always wanted a 560 and i'm gonna get one, and if this blood sucken diesease comes back i'm gonna go in style Thanks for the heads up , didn't know about that one -----Louis