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-   -   107 dash removel (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-sl-discussion-forum/164422-107-dash-removel.html)

taji medic 09-12-2006 08:52 PM

107 dash removel
 
can anybody tell me how to remove the dash in a 79 450sl i heard its not hard but just takes some time :confused:

Noeljb 09-12-2006 09:13 PM

Dash removal
 
I too heard it was not hard. However I found in my case it was impossible.

I found the nuts/bolts/screws to remove, but I think you need to remove the pilar trim (On each side of windshield). Looks like somebody glue mine on and I was afraid I would destroy them getting them off.

I gave up.I think there are only 4 or 5 attachment points you can easily see some through the holes where the instument cluster was and glove box.

Good luck and let us know. :)

Roncallo 09-12-2006 09:13 PM

The best way to describe this is to get the 107 service CD, For the most part everything is in there accept the CD appeares to describe the proceedure for an early 107 probably 1972. It certainly leaves out a few steps for the 560SL. Most of these extra steps are posted in a thread I started called "Will Sadie Ever Run Again".

The CD starts by saying to remove the seats, this is not required for the 560SL but may be for a 79 450SL.

It basically goes like this.

Remove stearing wheel, instrument cluster, radio, center console, interior trim arround windshield, under dash covers and side and foot air ducting, parking break knob, Light switch, 3 center swiches, glove box and light and switch and disconnect AC temp sensor in dash and side vent control cables underneath. Dash then removes with a nuts and fender washer on each side and 1 bolt in the center. Flexing of the dash will be necessary and if your dash is not cracked you may want to think twice before doing this.

This is not too difficult but it is time consuming, figure about 5 hr to remove and 5 hr to reinstall if you never did it before. Then figure anout 3 hours to remove and 4 hr to install the second time you do it. A good professional MB tech could probably R&R this in 4 hours total.

Then may I ask why are you removing the dash, Is it to fix a vacume element. Figure another couple of hours to remove the heater cover and repair the box and replace the actuators. Be carefull the box is old brittle plastic and parts are no longer available.

John Roncallo

Roncallo 09-12-2006 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noeljb (Post 1274757)
I too heard it was not hard. However I found in my case it was impossible.

I found the nuts/bolts/screws to remove, but I think you need to remove the pilar trim (On each side of windshield). Looks like somebody glue mine on and I was afraid I would destroy them getting them off.

I gave up.I think there are only 4 or 5 attachment points you can easily see some through the holes where the instument cluster was and glove box.

Good luck and let us know. :)

How much are new ones? They dont look too expensive.

John Roncallo

Roncallo 09-12-2006 09:31 PM

Some pictures of a heater box repair
 
3 Attachment(s)
See attached photos of my heater box repair

John Roncallo

Noeljb 09-12-2006 09:34 PM

Pillar Trim
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Roncallo (Post 1274768)
How much are new ones? They dont look too expensive.

John Roncallo

I really didn't look. I am mulling over changinging the interior color.

I have decided to change the exterior to white or Perlecent white. Car was origionally tan but someone changed it to black when they were changing the engine out. There is some body work needs to be done and paint is chiped. White won't clash with the black engine compartment. Black is just toooooo Hot here in East Texas.

Once I change the outside I'll better know what I want to do to the inside. So if I need to buy new pillar trim I'll get the color for the final. The current interior is Palamino or something (I thought that was a horse).

Noeljb 09-12-2006 09:37 PM

Heater Box
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Roncallo (Post 1274776)
heater box repair John Roncallo

VERY Nice. I need to post my Center console cross member repair. Not as fancy but use of sheet metal strips and pop rivets.

nobby 09-13-2006 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noeljb (Post 1274780)
VERY Nice. I need to post my Center console cross member repair. Not as fancy but use of sheet metal strips and pop rivets.

Describing your SL, Noel, makes mine seem like a creampuff. How good/bad was it when you started?

Roncallo 09-14-2006 08:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Noeljb (Post 1274777)
I really didn't look. I am mulling over changinging the interior color.

I have decided to change the exterior to white or Perlecent white. Car was origionally tan but someone changed it to black when they were changing the engine out. There is some body work needs to be done and paint is chiped. White won't clash with the black engine compartment. Black is just toooooo Hot here in East Texas.

Once I change the outside I'll better know what I want to do to the inside. So if I need to buy new pillar trim I'll get the color for the final. The current interior is Palamino or something (I thought that was a horse).

No need to replace the pillar trim most can be painted with
SEM interior paints. I just changed my interior color from Palimino to Black. The attached photos show what needs to be painted. I did paint both door handels, but I did elect to purchase a new left side one since this part will be handeled reguarly. Taking appart the visors for paint is a pain.

John Roncallo

Noeljb 09-16-2006 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nobby (Post 1274935)
Describing your SL, Noel, makes mine seem like a creampuff. How good/bad was it when you started?

Bad steering coupler. Dent front left fender. Rust both front wheel wells. Chips and dings. Control arm bushings, brakes, brake sensor wiring. Vacuum line under hood hooked up wrong. Ignition resistor broken. Engine was not running (bad fuel controler).

Interior looked good. Looks can be decieving.

Vacuum lines hooked up wrong. Upper half of heatting /AC system pulled apart and not put back together very well. Screws. nuts, bolts, and clips missing. Vacuum diaphrams ruptured. Broken vacuum lines. Someone working on center console (AC control and radio) broke the cross members in the center console. Buchered wiring for the radio and anrtenna and rear speakers. Broken Map pockets, I have a plan for those. Seats covers are bad. Seals on soft top bad, top looks good. Rust under rear deck.

Tires are good.

It has been fun working on it but I am getting antsy to drive it again.

I should live long enough to enjoy it a few yrs then leave a good car to my son who was also born in 79.

Noeljb 09-16-2006 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roncallo (Post 1276818)
No need to replace the pillar trim

John Roncallo

Do you not have to pull the pillar trim to get the dash out?

I think someone glue the pillar trim into place and I am aftaid I will rip the trim up trying to get it out.

Roncallo 09-17-2006 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noeljb (Post 1278555)
Do you not have to pull the pillar trim to get the dash out?

I think someone glue the pillar trim into place and I am aftaid I will rip the trim up trying to get it out.

Yes

you have to pull the pillare trim out to remove the dash. But to change color you dont have to replace it

John Roncallo

gary0006 02-11-2010 03:50 PM

My climate control is coming out this week and my mechanic is good but I want to send him some help. this thread should help.





Quote:

Originally Posted by Roncallo (Post 1274758)
The best way to describe this is to get the 107 service CD, For the most part everything is in there accept the CD appeares to describe the proceedure for an early 107 probably 1972 car. It certainly leaves out a few steps for the 560SL. Most of these extra steps are posted in a thread I started called "Will Sadie Ever Run Again".

The CD starts by saying to remove the seats, this is not required for the 560SL but may be for a 79 450SL.

It basically goes like this.

Remove stearing wheel, instrument cluster, radio, center console, interior trim arround windshield, under dash covers and side and foot air ducting, parking break knob, Light switch, 3 center swiches, glove box and light and switch and disconnect AC temp sensor in dash and side vent control cables underneath. Dash then removes with a nuts and fender washer on each side and 1 bolt in the center. Flexing of the dash will be necessary and if your dash is not cracked you may want to think twice before doing this.

This is not too difficult but it is time consuming, figure about 5 hr to remove and 5 hr to reinstall if you never did it before. Then figure anout 3 hours to remove and 4 hr to install the second time you do it. A good professional MB tech could probably R&R this in 4 hours total.

Then may I ask why are you removing the dash, Is it to fix a vacume element. Figure another couple of hours to remove the heater cover and repair the box and replace the actuators tire . Be carefull the box is old brittle plastic and parts are no longer available.

John Roncallo


tecqboy 02-11-2010 11:17 PM

Hope your mechanic doesn't confuse the parking break with his lunch brake.


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