Conflicting winter storage recommendations

[Gary Baxter]

After searching the forums for advice on storing my 1999 SL500 for the winter, I found conflicting info on a few recommendations and would like you all to weigh in please. My car will be in an unheated storage space in Maine without power.

Generally agreed upon items:

1. change fluids
2. remove battery and connect to battery tender
3. put soft top up
4. don't start the car during storage unless have the tme to bring it up to operating temperature
5. clean, wax, and cover the car
6. leave some moisture absorbent, anti-mildew sheets inside the cabin

Points of contention:

1. add fuel stabilizer to full tank of gas and run long enough to get into entire fuel system. Other side says that the fuel system in my car is a contained system and no water will get in. Also, others say that the new premium unleaded gases don't turn to varnish anymore.

2. jack the car up to prevent flat spots in tires. Also, heard that that's not good for the suspension, that pieces of carpet under the tires will work, and that fancy tire coasters or cradles are best.

3. leave windows slightly open and door closed to first click to prevent flattening of rubber seals. Other side says this is asking for moisture problems.

4. cover exhaust pipe and air intake with pantyhose, stuff with rags, cover with plastic bags and elastics, etc. The thoughts beings that you need to keep varmits from nesting (true, I once had a family of mice living in the trunk of Fiat Spider but that actually enhanced the experience!) or to keep air out. The pantyhose obviously allows air in and the plastic bags do not but the rags would allow some air to pass.

I think that's it but would welcome any other suggestions (other than moving to a normal climate.)

[waybomb]

Three of my cars get stored every winter, along with the boats, and years ago, lawn mowers.


I do 1, 4, and 5, but do occasionally go out and hook up a battery charger. I like to look for mice under the hood at the same time.

Always use fuel stabilizer in full fuel tanks. Especially with today's gas. It is cheap insurance. Put in when you fill up the lasttime, and run the engine until you believe the stabilized fuel has made it all the way to engine. If you don't want to use stabilizer, than at least fill the tanks to the top.

Fog the engines.

I store my cars on the tires, inflated to 40 psi.

I crack the window, but leave the doors closed. I leave the tailpipe alone. Unless you vacuum bag the car, moisture will get in. This is Physics at work. I vote for letting it breath. Works for me.

[tecqboy]

I do everything on both of your lists except the pantyhose thing. Since you don't have power in the garage, I suppose it's best to remove the battery and keep in charged inside your home. But be prepared for possible "computer confusion" in the spring when you re-install the battery. I usually don't change oil before storage unless it is near due by mileage. Synthetic oil can hold up over the 5 months I store. Otherwise, it's all good advice.

[cbdo]

I'd be reluctant to leave anything open (varmints), but I do leave a couple of the moisture absorbant canisters in the cabin, and small packets in the top compartment (I get mine at West Marine). Since you're without power, I'd pull the battery, although if you could charge it perhaps every six weeks or so that'd probably be adequate. My experience has been that the charger (a three-amp Guest) doesn't need to run very long even at that interval, though my usual is to simply leave the battery in and a maintainer/charger on. I absolutely use fuel stabilizer, though I don't fog or cover the tailpipe. I leave the hardtop on and the soft top folded, again with anti-mildew packets. And the best advice I've seen about car covers is no; it's better to let it get a bit more dusty than to trap condensation under the cover.

[snowbilt]

I would say the best thing to do mechanically is drive it every couple of weeks. Most winters have breaks in them when the roads are dry. My garage is climate controlled so I don't worry much about varmits and such. I just let it breath and clean it off if needed. I do like the idea about the anti mold packs for the soft top compartment since I put the hard top on in the winter.

[Pete Geither]

Mousetraps,,, lots of mousetraps.

[OB Joe]

I sprinkle moth ball crystals around the car and hang one in the engine compartment and one off the rear end. My storage barn can have mice but have never had a problem with them in the car. The crystals evaporate (sublime) over a couple of weeks so it does have to be redone but I believe it works.

[mwalters]

In the big white North, we don't drive in winter. For my 560SL, which stays in an unheated garage, it gets: an oil change and "hibernation" service at my local indie; full tank of gas with stabilizer; tyres pumped up; the hard top put on; the battery removed (indoors); and covered with a large cloth sheet.

During winter, I rotate the wheels a third of a turn every two months, and trickle charge the battery a couple of times.

I have chosen not to start the car over winter, though I have a neighbour who does just that with an immaculate Supra (first body style).