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#1
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Front Suspension Noise
I have a 79 450sl. Currently creating noise around the right front suspension. sounds like hard thumping sound when turning hard to the right or left at end of turning radius. My thoughts are drag link, tie rod end or possible ball joints all on right side. Anyone have this problem before?
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#2
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Quote:
Only other suggestion is jack each front wheel off the ground and check for play in the suspension that way - grabbing top and bottom of road wheel and try rocking in and out - side to side , if its a badly worn ball joint, physically lifting the wheel will show play. Hope that helps. 280SL |
#3
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My suspension was creeking so bad it was embarrassing. The car was also "wandering" on the road. I had already replaced the tie rods and upper control arms. I finally found an inexpensive tool to remove and install the lower ball joints and man what a difference. The creeking went away completely and the car was steering like a champ again.
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Mike Heath 1988 560SL Black/Palomino 1988 300SEL Black Pearl/Burgandy 1984 500SEC Anthracite Grey/Palomino |
#4
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Problem solved!
I had a INDY replace the tie rods and drag link on my 1989 560SL w/ 80K miles for a total of $307.00 US. Problem solved! No more CLUNK sound when hard turn to either side.
Remove L&R Tie Rod and Replace Drag Link labor $105.00 US Tie Rod Assembly, 2 each @$64.00=$128.00 US Drag Link $74.00 US
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD Last edited by lynns; 11-01-2006 at 03:29 PM. |
#5
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inexpensive tool for ball joints w107?
Hi
Can you please tell me where to get this tool and how easy it as to do thi job, my ball joint boot is cracked and I hear a loud sound when turning or braking to a stop ( clunk) thanks Nick Quote:
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#6
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Here's the link to the tool:
Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press I think I gave the details in another thread probably about 6 months ago. Essentially, the first side took me about four hours as I was figuring things out. I basically followed the service manual procedure and used this tool instead of the one called for in the manual. The second side only took about an hour and a half, and that was at a leisurely pace. I do remember that the instructions that came with the kit were wrong for pressing the joint back in. I think I flipped the clamp 180 degrees from the instructions when pressing the joint back in. It's not rocket science. The adapters only fit one way. I think that's why I was surprised about the mistake in the instructions. Give yourself as much clearance above the ground as you can and don't jack the front end up by the lower control arm. I've done enough suspension work on my SL and SEL that sometimes I confuse them, but I almost certainly had to remove the brake caliper and rotor. So if you haven't done that before, the rotor might take awhile to get off.
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Mike Heath 1988 560SL Black/Palomino 1988 300SEL Black Pearl/Burgandy 1984 500SEC Anthracite Grey/Palomino |
#7
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Here's another thread to look at.
Ball Joints, 1982 380SL Although I wasn't as detailed as I would have hoped. But it's been too long now for me to be any more verbose. Maybe specific questions will jog my memory.
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Mike Heath 1988 560SL Black/Palomino 1988 300SEL Black Pearl/Burgandy 1984 500SEC Anthracite Grey/Palomino |
#8
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Problem solved
My INDY charged me $105.00 US for the labor. It was well worth it vs. DIY.
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD |
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