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#31
11-17-2006, 04:18 PM
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The latch on the top part (top bow) is adjustable any way side to side/front to back. There are also shims that can be added (if you can order them) or usually there are a couple in there so they can be taken out. If you sorta know which way the top part needs to go you can loosen the attaching screws and move the top part where ever you think it needs to go. Try to make just really small adjustments, don't loosen the screws up alot or the top part might move way too far on you and it's hard to get it back into the ballpark area again. One hint is to look at the black plastic part on the lower cover (below where you are going to adjust, I think you said the left side) and look for any small scrape marks in the plastic, that can tell you definitely which way you need to adjust the top part.
SPORT Light, that's right, messed that up. On the car that was posted, hey I appreciate the tip. I am really pretty determined that the 300 is for me, MAYBE a SL320 if the price is right, but would be perfectly fine with a 300SL, really. It's not that I don't LIKE the 500/M119 moter, anything but. Just as I mentioned before, we will be fine with the 6 holer. I agree the 500 has alot more grunt, but compared to the Sprite a 300SL will feel like a rocketship in comparison, plenty enough scoot for us. I don't think we'll be ready til spring for a few different reasons. The Sprite has to go first. I have received 50% down on it and need the other 50% (because I need the money to do this), and the Sprite has to physically "leave" to make room for another car. I kind of like the looks of that SL, we want to try staying away from the typical red, white, black. I like the maroon red though, but not sure what colors were all offered on the early 300's. We both actually kind of like the original grey cladding and bumpers on the early ones, but see that often times they are resprayed in monochrome, like the later ones. Light blue or silver would be cool, what other colors were there? Wasn't there a more blueish-greenish, as opposed to the regular light blue? My take on the 129 market right now is for an early SL, should be able to get about a 100,000 miler for about $10,000, more $$ for less miles and less $$ for higher miles. We'd like to be in the $10,000 area, OR maybe a bit more more $$ for one below 100,000, rather not go way over 100,000 miles, unless it was a really really sharp one, good color, etc. Would like to find as stock as an example as possible, I really like those 15 hole (?) original wheels, although they are hard to clean. Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) 
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#33
11-19-2006, 04:27 PM
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Fyi
Quote:
All caps is considered SHOUTING IN PEOPLES FACES. Have a great day.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#34
11-20-2006, 08:58 AM
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Gilly,
I still have not figured it out. After I recharged the battery, the top still does not move and red control button and bar button are both lit permanently. If I disconnect the module (when it has juice, right?) how do I synchronize the top? Mine is 97 320 and I already re-synchronized the windows. SOS SOS SOS.....
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#35
11-20-2006, 09:07 PM
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Man, you just posted 1 "hey me too" post and I really don't know much about your problem at all. WHAT Year ya sportin' there, sport? Changes from year to year, not a "one size fits all" thing.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
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#36
11-21-2006, 06:15 AM
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Quote:
As Gilly says there is no hard and fast rule - you can try a few things but inevitably you may have a fault - the solenoids for operating the roll bar for example. Did you try the methods described regarding the fuse pulling? If you're resetting the windows I presume you have a post '94 model.
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#39
11-21-2006, 09:19 AM
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Try disconnecting all 3 connectors on the top control module (key OFF), then connecting again and see if it will work. I understand the lights are on, are you saying the soft top is totaly inop, the rear lid over the top doesn't even open??
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
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#41
11-21-2006, 01:38 PM
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Could be internal leak in the front latch actuators. Are the windows rolling down with the soft top switch?
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
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#43
11-21-2006, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
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#44
11-21-2006, 07:46 PM
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Do the windows roll down with 1 touch operaation (with the window switch express-down, not talking about the top switch now).
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)
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#45
11-22-2006, 05:59 AM
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If the roll bar light is on it suggests a position or solenoid fault - this is usually reset by pulling the roll bar fuse in the boot as mentioned (does the roll bar move using the switch - have you reset it?). If this doesn't work then it sounds like it isn't a straight forward fix and something needs replacing. As Bob says - the codes will need to be cleared and re-read to see what the latest fault is.
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