380SL simplex Timing Chain

[ewenjo]

Okay,Then. I am ready to install the simplex chain, three upper rails, one upper tension rail, and new tensioner. I have the great procedure compiled and documented by Page62. Are there any other tricks I should be aware of, particularly installing the rails. Do I remove the tensioner before installing the new chain? Is it best to install the rails before the new chain? What's the best procedure for installing the tension rail? One article said to remove the cam sprocket but since I am installing a new chain, I would think that as long as I support the two unconnected ends, I would be able to remove the tension rail> Does that sound correct????

Thanks,as always, this is a great forum>

[ctaylor738]

Maybe I'm challenged, but I don't see how you can get the rails out with the chain tight.

So I would bring #1 to TDC and remove the tensioner.
Mark chain position on both sprockets with a dab of paint.
Remove right sprocket
Replace right rail
Remove left sprocket
Replace left rails
R/R tensioner rail
Install left sprocket
Install right sprocket
Roll in new chain
Install tensioner

[davestlouis]

I tried to locate a single chain for a customer this past week with a 1982 380SL and my friendly service dept informed me that not only is the single chain out of production, but they wanted $5075 to update it to a double chain configuration...he passed, and said if the engine goes kaboom, he'll drop a used double chain engine in it and be done with it.

[ewenjo]

Thanks CTaylor... it's what I came to believe after I looked at the assembly. The MB maintenance manual leads you to believe you can remove the rails without removing the cam sprockets. Now upon removal of the cam sprockets , the manual shows a special cam wrench. Is that essential or is there another way to hold the cam shaft while loosening the sprocket?


To the member in ST Louis... the simplex chain can be ordered from Phil.. I just received one for about $79. I choose to go with the simplex chain because the car is a garage queen.. has about 69000 miles on it now with the original chain... is a sunday spring thru fall drive... and if the stretch is routinely monitored.. I think it will be okay. Prior correspondence with the forum guys led me to this decision. ( I hope it is the correct one!)

[Strife]

I used a very large screwdriver through the gear with the tip inside the head casting to hold it while loosening.

Tightening is trickier and the above is much harder to do; I used a pipe wrench at the middle of the cams where the two pins for the special wrench are (do not apply a wrench on or near any machined surface of the cam!).

Hopefully you have a good torque wrench...

[ctaylor738]

Large vise-grips work well, also.

[Roncallo]

See the DIY article on this. I recomend you spend the money for the rail pin puller and also the chain installation tool. It can be done witout it. But if you search for some of my posts in the service forum you may come accrose a post I put out shoing how to do it without the puller. followed by another post saying something like "HELP, I followed John Roncallo's proceedure and now the rail pin threads are striped out and I had to have the car towed to a shop to finish it.

Also if you find you have trouble with the tensioner pivot pin, PM me. It's supposed to just slide out and it probably did 20 years ago.

John Roncallo