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Pre-purchase suggestions for 560SL
I’m locked in on a 1988 560SL with just over 37,000 miles. The car has had very little use in the past five years. Assuming the odometer is working (we’ll check it), the car has put on only about 200 miles in the past five years and 4,000 miles in the past fifteen years. It is a one owner car originally delivered to California. Mileage checks out with Carfax data and everything the owner has told me. I have not seen the car yet, since it is 500 miles away from me. I did have a good friend do an initial inspection for me which included a reasonably thorough visual check of the car. The car passed with flying colors. It also started very easily and ran smoothly. Next step is to take it to a mechanic to get it on a lift and do a more thorough check. BTW, price will be in the mid teens.
Please help me fill in the things I want to mechanic to look at specifically and also the things that I ought to do before driving it 500 miles to get it home. The only thing I’m thinking I want to do before driving it home is an oil/filter change. Of course should something come up in the PPI with brakes, tires or anything else critical to a safe drive home, I’d attend to that issue(s). The basic cost of the PPI is going to be $75. Add another $150 if I want a compression test done. The mechanic said that with that kind of mileage, a compression test is probably not necessary. I’d certainly like to save myself the extra $150, but I also want to make sure I don’t have major internal engine issues in a few months. I don’t expect any and feel pretty good about the owner’s honesty, the Carfax report, the condition of the car, etc. So, what are your recommendations on the compression test? Once I get the car home, I’ll be doing lots of maintenance on it to include changing all the fluids, brake hoses and maybe other rubber on the brake system, motor mounts, subframe mounts, maybe other suspension rubber, a 30,000 mile service, etc. I’ll be doing a search through this forum to find out other areas that may need attention. Please let me know any things I ought to be looking at. Other than the usual PPI checks, here is a list of some specific 107 chassis things some of you have suggested in past posts and some things I’ve come up with. Let me know what I’m missing. AC/climate control system – a weakness in the car. Oiler tubes – is this something that can be replaced easily and should I get it done now? Timing chain, tensioner and guides – anything that can be easily checked and anything to worry about before the drive home? Oil leaks – rear main seal, head gasket Plastic neck on radiator Soft top condition – good chance that it is original and good chance it needs to be replaced. Thanks for your help – hopefully it will all work out. Len |
#2
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I think you have most of the basics covered. The fact the car is low mileage does not release it from concern about any rubber/plastic parts, as you have already considered (timing chain guides, vacuum hoses, fuel lines, bushings, etc).
I will add that I do not recommend an oil chnage, then hit the road. I usually like a day or two of normal round-town driving on a fresh oil change before hitting the long and lonesome road. That way, if a filter leaks*, or some other minor glitch rears its head, you are not on the road away from FBO, so to speak. *Be advised... If an amateur changes oil, the o-ring on the filter cartridge is easy to pinch. A leak will only be found when the car is left idling for a bit, otherwise, the oil leak will not necessarily be found as it (the filter) will not leak unless oil is flowing (the system under pressure). I discoverd this after an oil change in my 560. Back at the FBO a couplle of days later, I had the bonnet up with the engine running, observing the engine bay for unusual noise, etc. I looked down and saw a few spots of oil. As I continued to observe, the tiny puddle began to grow. On return to the shop, a pinched o-ring was found. The mngr replaced the entire filter and o-ring, topped up with oil, and apologized profusely.
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RM Smith 1988 560SL "Where is it again that we are going, and why are we in this handbasket"? |
#3
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Do the compression. 200 miles in 5 years is not that good. It seams you have the rest of the concerns understood. Your most likely problem is going to be AC and heater issues, make sure AC blows out the center vents. I would have the oilers and chain guides changed right away. The chain itself should be fine.
John Roncallo |
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#5
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IMHO,
The brakes would be a big point for me. Sticky calipers can let the car drive ok, but will boil the brake fluid thus losing brakes when you want to stop. How do I know? It happened to my "pampered" garage queen 450SL a few weeks after I bought it. Transmission leaks will be a issue on a low mileage car. Headgasket leak at rear of cylinder head(oil). The $$$ water pump is suspect as well. Make sure the soft top mechanism is adjusted and works well, it's hard enough to raise and lower the soft top as it is. Only a '70s British sportscar is worse. If a hardtop exists, make sue it was stored in a proper "cart", because leaning it on the wall can cause it to distort ever so slightly. Again, I found out the hard way. I would ask for service records, and look for lack of coolant changes and brake fluid changes. The coolant is a big deal, because the aluminum cylinder heads can corrode when the coolant gets old. I had to replace both heads on my 300SEL 3.5 due to infrequent coolant changes. In the late '80s, it cost over $3800. They made plenty of these cars, so if it's not perfect, I would pass on it. |
#6
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I am concerned about the following. 1) If the car has not been driven very much there is a strong chance that the tires have flat spots which means a vibration probably between 60-75 MPH. Make sure you drive it on the freeway. You can always put on a new set of Michelins. It sounds like the investment would be worthy. Costs about $625.00?? 2) Check the sterring wheel for play. This can be adjusted at the sterring box for about $85.00. 3) Check the Climate Control Center Vents for A/C cooling. Read the manual in advance to better understand what to expect with the controls. 4) Make sure that the Climate Control switches from hot to cold easily. Otherwise you may need to replace the A/C Mono Valve for about $30.00. 4) Pull the hardtop and check the soft top plastic, etc. The plastic can usually be brought back to life with either Mequires or Mothers plastic polish. Read #5 at the following post: Help with 560SL purchase I don't think you should have any problems with #2,3 above but it doesn't hurt to check them. Remember you are buying a 19 year old car that costs $56K originally for you said the mid teens. Try not to expect perfection but instead put aside about $3K so you can get into the condition that suits you. And I wouldn't get any work done until you get home and settle down. Enjoy driving it home.
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD |
#7
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Center Vent Accuator
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Your Center Vent Accuator probably needs to be replaced. Please read the following post: center vents not working on 560SL
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD |
#8
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Thanks for all the helpful replies folks. They are much appreciated as I compile my list of things for the mechanic to check.
Len |
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