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  #31  
Old 03-15-2008, 10:39 AM
GSMITH's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Palm Bay, Florida
Posts: 152
Tony thanks for the pics. One question did you have to grind the link before you installed the guide? In your first pic it looks like you do but in the other pics it looks that you do not.
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  #32  
Old 03-15-2008, 12:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 47
Sorry guys, I had to leave town for a few days.

1. DOCJBK - I would be happy to rent the chain loader, but hey, it's less than $52. If you rent this from me, shipping would be something like $5 each way and if I were to add some kind of rental fee on top of that, you've almost bought it. You're probably better off just purchasing it don't you think?

2. GSMITH - Yes! I first used heavy electrical ties around the chain and cam gear toward the bottom to hold the chain on the cam. Then used my grider to grind off a link at the top. Then I placed the chain loader on top and attached the new chain to the link closest the engine. Then all you do is turn the crank clockwise (to the right) and feed the chain. While they claim using the chain loader makes this a one-man job, I'm not convinced of that. The chain still wants to ride up on the cam and bind a little in the chain loader. So I had my wife hold down the chain to the cam gear using her thumb while I rotated the engine. The one advantage of using the chain loader is that you do not have to keep moving your vise grips so the process is speaded up. Otherwise using vice grips should work just fine.

I have not yet started the engine. I have everything put back together except for the fan, fan shroud and alternator. The reason is that the person who owned this car before me replaced the alternator and didn't know what they were doing. They tried turning the adjustment bolt on the alternator from the front rather than taking the nut off the adjustment bolt from the rear. So they ended up stripping the adjustment star on the bolt. So I ordered a new adjustment bolt from Mercedes. Unfortunately the bolt is being shipped from Germany. Yes I could have found an aftermarket bolt or even just used a regular bolt to tighten this up good enough to start the engine, but I'm lazy. I hope this comes in next week so I can try firing it up.

I hope this cures the problem. Otherwise I've wasted time and money and I'm back to square one.

Thanks all,
-Tony-
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  #33  
Old 03-15-2008, 05:49 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philoprof View Post
Hey Carson357,

I was just wondering if you ever had a problem with using after-market oiler fittings vs Mercedes fittings -- or are they made by the same manufacturer. The reason I'm asking is that I purchased 2 kits from the Benzbin to replace the oiler tubes on my 380sl. However, when I tried to insert them into the holes on top of the camshaft towers, they were way too loose. So, I had to reuse the old ones. Am I running a big risk here, considering that the old ones still seemed to grab fine.

Thanks in advance for the info.
Philo, I believe the 380SL fittings are the same as on my 560SL. I purchased mine from ******** AZ, but they were packaged in a ziploc with a label so I don't know the manufacturer. They are a coffee-colored plastc. They fit the tube perfectly and they needed to be tapped in to the cam-bearing posts with a rubber mallet. They are tight, and should be. If they come loose, oil will not be directed into the cam bearing.
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  #34  
Old 03-15-2008, 07:26 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 2,834
Does anyone know if the older iron block M117 screw on metal oil tubes and fittings will fit the alloy engines. Those were so much nicer.

John Roncallo
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  #35  
Old 03-24-2008, 09:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 47
Well I finally got the final parts to finish off the chain, cam gears, guides and tensioner. However I have a problem I am unable to solve. Oil leaks out of the chain tightener. I have tried two gaskets and I still can't stop the oil from squirting out. What am I doing wrong? I can't run the car long enough to see if the other issues are fixed because of this leaking chain tightener.

Thanks,
-Tony-
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  #36  
Old 03-25-2008, 08:50 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Louisiana
Posts: 435
I offer a suggestion: I did this job a couple of years ago, and I don't remember if the tensioner is held on by bolts or nuts, but if bolts, be sure you have the right ones and they are not too long. If you get the bolts mixed up and try to use ones that are too long, they will bottom out in the holes and you will think you have them tight, but alas! not tight, therefore oil leaks. I did not have any trouble whatsoever installing the new tensioner, no leaks, and I am a rank amateur. Be sure it is not cocked and is correctly seated in position.
Another suggestion to anyone contemplating this job: I bought a spring compressor and removed all the rocker arms; that way there was no risk of the valve spring pressure trying to turn the cams while I was working on it. Just keep up with where they came from and put them back in the same place.
Suggestion #3: be sure to insert the center tie plate in the master link. I almost left it out; EGAD! I wonder how many amateur chain replacements have ended in disaster down the road because of this. Slow down and think.
Good Luck, it's a beautiful car.
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  #37  
Old 03-25-2008, 11:25 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 47
These are the exact same bolts. In fact, I removed the tensioner and kept the bolts intact. When ready I used the new tensioner, placed the gasket and inserted the original bolts. I then evenly torque to specs. It doesn't leak from the bolts, but instead leaks around the side of the tensioner toward the back between the bolts. I then removed the tensioner and tried another new gasket and same issue. It's as if the tensioner is warped. Today I'll try to gather up two new gaskets from the dealer and see if I can seal things using two gaskets. Using two should not have any impact on the tensioner from what I see.

I don't really think you need to remove the rocker arms. As long as you mark everything (which I did) to identify current positions, you really can't get lost. Yes, when I removed the cam gear the cam moved, but since everything was properly marked, it was a no brainer as to where the cam gear needed to go. I just didn't know how to move the cam and then "GSMITH" told me about the little stubs in the middle of the cam shaft and two seconds later I was fully recovered. If I didn't use the chain loader and was not confident about using vise grips to hold the chain to the cam when replacing the chain, then yes, I would consider removing the rocker arms.

Another tip for those wishing to do this job. I purchased aftermarket valve cover gaskets from Autohauz. These also leaked like crazy. I ended up buying from the dealer and they fit tighter without slipping (ie, curling on the curves). No issue after using the real gaskets. The driver's side is the biggest *****.

I'll let you know what happens,
-Tony-
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2008, 01:06 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 47
Well I finally finished this job! Before I say anything more I want to thank Carson357 for his diagnosis. He was right on! No more smoke pouring out of the exhaust and NO more oil entering the exhaust either!!!

Now to let you know what happened with the oil leaking chain tensioner. As you know from my previous post, I replaced my chain tensioner and gasket. The first attempt she leaked like crazy. I pulled it off again and replaced it with another new gasket and she still leaked like mad. I used the correct torque specs each time and only gradually made those torques (each nut at a time). But each time this stupid thing leaked. Could it be these aftermarket gaskets on the chain tensioner just like the valve covers? So I ordered 3 new gaskets from the dealer. They had to come out of California and arrived this afternoon. I ordered 3 so I could first try it with one and if one didn't work I would try doubling them up. So I placed the one Mercedes brand gasket on the tensioner and torqued it to specs. I then started the engine and NO LEAKS! First time and no leaks.

I have learned a valuable lesson. Stay away from aftermarket parts unless you know it is the exact same as the genuine one. Many aftermarket parts are genuine, but many are not and valve cover gaskets and chain tensioner gaskets are not (at least from ********).

Anyway, I wanted to report back and let you all know this solved the problem and to give a special thanks to Carson357 for his diagnosis. Tomorrow I'm going to drive it some instead of just watch it idle in the driveway.

Thanks,
-Tony-

Last edited by red560SL; 03-28-2008 at 11:03 AM.
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