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Old 06-27-2008, 07:31 PM
Bob's your uncle
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 76
New camshafts

I have a ticking at both cylinder banks and I took my 560 to the local MB dealer that is servicing my other MB ‘s to get the valves adjusted. I have already replaced the rockers and ballstuds and while doing that I did see that there were excessive wear on 3-4 on the rocker arms but I didn’t see anything on the camshaft. I figured that the ticking could be taken out by finding the right thrust element.

I just got a call from the SA saying that the cams need to be changed out on both sides and adjusting the thrust element would not be enough. So my question now is if it is enough to replace the camshafts or do I also need to replace the bearings (comes together with the cam towers)? I am kinds hoping that replacing the camshafts would be enough since the bearings and towers cost more than the camshafts. When I last had the valve cover off the bearings looks good and there are no slack in them so I think they should be good.

Another thing is that there are different Woodruff keys with different offset (2, 3 and 5 degrees). Should I have to use another key than the one I have and if so what should the offset be?

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Old 06-27-2008, 09:50 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: KY USA
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Unless something bad happened to the bearings (like running out of oil because of bad oil tube fittings) they are probably OK.

The woodruff key is available offset to compensate for worn cam chains or gears. If everything were new and perfect, supposedly, there would be 0 degrees required.

How many miles are on this. Are the cams obviously through the case hardening? If the ticking is not terrible and/or goes away after startup, many people (myself included) live with this - as long as the oil tubes are delivering oil.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2008, 11:51 AM
Bob's your uncle
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 76
I have changed out the ballstuds, rocker arms and chain so there shouldn’t be any stretch on the chain and everything should be as new (apart from the cams). When I got the car I replaced the chain and upper chain guides as well as the oiler kit (- the tube). They pretty much came apart in my hand and I expect that they have been broken for awhile and blocking the delivery of oil from some of the cam towers. That is properly why some of the lobes on both sides are worn through the hardening. I don’t see that a broken oiler kit should lead to the bearings going bad as well since the oil for the bearings comes from the bottom.

The ticking is not overwhelming but it doesn’t go away and is persistent up to about 1500 RPM. The motor also idles rough and keeps having the rough rocking motion even after it is revved to about 1500-2000 RPM. My thought is that the ticking, rough idle and worn cams are connected and if I replace the cam shafts I should be able to solve both the rough idle and ticking.

My plan of action it to replace the cam shafts and oiler kit. If the tubes are looking good I’ll keep them but af not they get replaced as well. I seem to remember when I replaced the kit last time that there were a couple if dents on the tube – not bad but a soft dent – but as long as they are not obstructed and the holes are free they should be OK, right?
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Old 06-28-2008, 11:59 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgaar View Post
I have changed out the ballstuds, rocker arms and chain so there shouldn’t be any stretch on the chain and everything should be as new (apart from the cams). When I got the car I replaced the chain and upper chain guides as well as the oiler kit (- the tube). They pretty much came apart in my hand and I expect that they have been broken for awhile and blocking the delivery of oil from some of the cam towers. That is properly why some of the lobes on both sides are worn through the hardening. I don’t see that a broken oiler kit should lead to the bearings going bad as well since the oil for the bearings comes from the bottom.
1. The tube (AND THE HOLES) need to be surgically spotless, or you will have a spot that will collect more gunk. I think that's why the manual says replace if clogged. It took a lot of work and 1500 grit paper to get the inside of my tubes truly clean.

2. The oil comes up from the rear bearings only - so if the back connection goes bad, nothing gets oiled.

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