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#2
07-18-2008, 07:23 AM
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The grills in front of the windshield feed into a small box section which should then drain under the car. They hold water and eventually rot through to the footwell. If you pull the carpet out, remove the panel above your feet and look up with a flashlight you should be able to see the rusty hole if its the same problem I had. If it all looks ok then its probably your glass not sealing.
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#3
07-18-2008, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
I recall that the first MB I bought, a used 250c, leaked water into the cabin, because the sheet metal under the cowls had filled with debris and rusted out. So, I removed the cowls and coated the sheet metal with roofing tar, which stopped the leak. If I recall correctly, I had to snip off the ends of the rivets that held the cowl in place, and that I replaced them with screws. So, assuming I have the same problem, I guess I'll have to do that again? Or is it possible to patch the leak from below with, say, plumber's putty? Thanks for any advice .
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#4
07-21-2008, 07:11 AM
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Without taking the wings (fenders?) off I dont think the box section is accessible. I sealed it from inside the footwell. Lots of rust converter where I could get access and Waxoyl to limit any future rust and then filler to seal the hole. If you can weld then that will be a better option. Mine is now always dry.
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#5
07-21-2008, 07:58 AM
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Taking the grilles off won't show you anything except the flaps that control the fresh air inlet. Instead, pull the blower cover off and check out the drain holes on each side of the blower compartment.
Also look closely at the big grommet on the driver's side firewall where the vacuum lines and parking brake cable enter the cabin. You may have rust in that area. Water runs down the firewall and gets in around the grommet, causes rust, which allows more water to get in. You need to pull the grommet back a bit to see things clearly.
__________________
Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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#6
07-21-2008, 09:45 AM
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Are these drains unique to Mercedes? I can't remember ever hearing about them in relation to other brands of cars. Clogged up drains seem to be a common culprit when body rust is discovered.
__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century  OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles
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#7
10-03-2008, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
As you can see from the pictures, the upper portion of driver's foot-well (just to the right of the emergency brake assembly) rusted through, so that I can pass a screwdriver from the cabin into the wheel-well. And there's another large patch of rust near the break pedal. After running a hose into the cowl, I could see water running along the gutter under the hood hinge, down under the wiper motor, and along the crevice under the brake booster into the rusted out foot-well. I could also see a bar with a drain plug in it (just above the screw driver in one of the pictures) that runs along the wheel well, which I assume is the "box" you were talking about(?) In any case, I'm now wondering what the best way to fix the problem would be. One of the things i'm considering is trying to prevent the water from running along the crevice under the brake booster by attaching the silver firewall covering that hangs over the crevice to the crevice with plumber's putty. I've used plumber's putty before to seal leaks in pipes, and it works great even if the surfaces are wet. The only thing I'm wondering is whether the putty will bond to the firewall covering. But even if I can use the putty to divert the water away from the crevice, it should prevent the water from taking the same path into the cabin. Another thing i'm considering is drilling a hole in the crevice under the brake booster, removing the plug in the transverse bar/box, and passing a small rubber hose down through the hole, so water can drain out to the wheel well rather than into the cabin. As for the rust hole, I can't weld. So i guess i'll have to cut the rusted portion out, scrape the edges, apply a rust converter, and fill the rusted out area with Bondo or some other filler. I was also considering POR-15, but that looks like a much longer and more difficult process. Any additional advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated.    
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