Trunk Lock

[rocky raccoon]

PLease don't hang up. This one is different. My research on this site and Benzworld did not come up with a similar problem. Car is 1988 560SL.

Cannot open trunk.

My trunk lock pushbutton is jammed in and will not come out.

Key will turn to the left (unlock) but will not turn to the right.

Tried a partial turn - jiggle - pull many times hoping fror a miracle.

Vac actuator does not work when turning trunk key to the left or attempting to turn right.

Vac actuator works when using key on doors. Fuel door locks and unlocks and can be heard trying to work on trunk when using door key.

Definitely a mechanical problem, not vacuum.

Willing to sacrifice key lock but I am told that even drilling out will not unjam mechanism.

Any help? Anyone had a similar problem?

My next attempt will be to remove the soft top well and see what I can see at the inside of the lock mechanism. I know there is a cover over the lock. Is it removable when standing on your head with a flashlight in your teeth?

[Jack M]

Hello Rocky, The partition between the softtop and the trunk is metal No way of seeing in. After examining my lock and latch on my 1986 this this is Fort Knox. Using a bigger Hammer is not the way to do this. Wait for help or find a really knowledgeable automotive locksmith.

Best of luck Jack

[Jack M]

Hello again, I talked to a locksmith friend. His suggestion is to make some type of tool that is inserted into the cylinder and turn it about 90 degrees and try to coax the cylinder (button) out to a normal position, a little lubrication on the outside first will help.

The button moves a rod that is not in line with the button. It is off to the left and that is the actuation mechanism. The vacuum system will not unlock or lock the trunk with the button in. Best of luck, be gentle. Jack M

[Jack M]

Hello Rocky, The partition between the softtop and the trunk is metal No way of seeing in. After examining my lock and latch on my 1986 this this is Fort Knox. Using a bigger Hammer is not the way to do this. Wait for help or find a really knowledgeable automotive locksmith.

Best of luck Jack

[rocky raccoon]

I'll try your friends suggestion. My key easily turns the lock 90 deg left but will not turn right beyond vertical. I am afraid of breaking off the key by turning right too hard. I'll try a tool, maybe a screwdriver. Certainly can't make things worse than they are now.

[Gilly]

Have seen a circumstance like this. You won't like what they had to do....
Bust out tail light (incl bulb carrier) reach in and unbolt striker. Ouch.
I believe it was a 107 anyways, Jack can you verify that the bolts for the striker can be reached in this manner? I'm sure any details Rocky can get as far as where the bolts are, etc would be appreciated. It could have been a different chassis, but similar vintage.
Gilly

[Jack M]

Hello Again. You must get the key cylinder to return to its normal out position.

Under the lock on the outside are 4 screws that when removed will allow you to remove that piece of chrome trim which the cylinder moves through. That may give you more access to the cylinder. The key cylinder is centered on the car body but the lock mechanism is about 1/2 inch to the right. if the rod that unlatches the lock is broken, then if you clear out the cylinder you should be able to push with a thin steel rod in to release the deck lid. I don't envy you but take your time. I do not know what holds it all together so maybe a (Very good) friend will let you dissassemble his lock so you can see how it works. Did somthing happen to damage the cylinder or it is just stuck?

The 4 screws that hold the striker and lock in place oppose each other and when the deck lid is closed there is no access to any of them. so evenif you took an Alice in Wonderland Smaller Pill and climbed through the taillight there is is no access. Sorry,, Jack

[coleyjf]

Hi there Rocky

Ouch - Gilly's solution sounds painfull - though having just looked at my 300SL - it would probably work - though you've also got the plastic back covers on the light units as well as the reflectors and cct boards so you'd need a tank cutter to cut through that lot.

One thing to try:

Squirt WD40 or similar all round the lock specially down the sides of the plunger - take a hairdryer and warm up the mech ( anything hotter might hurt the components and bodywork) then try Jack's solution with a piece of bent wire to pull the plunger out. - This worked on an old car I had years ago - anything rather than the tank cutter!!!!!

Cheers

Jim

[Gilly]

IIRC it involved a hammer, a very big hammer.
What is CCT board?
As long as there is no metal, should just require, well, smashing to hell anything in the way. BUT now there seems to be disagreement on if the striker bolts are accessable. If the bolts are between the body and decklid you are out of luck, I thought they were facing the front of the car, maybe with a plastic flap over them, which would be manageable to do if you have a good photo or mental image of what needs to be done, you could do that by "feel". (would be the same bolts you use to adjust the decklid, just remove them, usually are just 2 or 3)
Yes, on the rod trick, I've done that myself, but sounds like the latch is really had it, so not sure. If the chrome button is already in, with the button in the unlocked position, the home made rod might not work. I didn't realize the chrome strip came off from the outside on a 107, the one I did I had to drill through the chrome strip AND body to get the rod in the trunk. I am thinking, as I think the other guys are, that the part behind the chrome button (like rod or finger) might have jammed next to the part the latch itself, so yeah trying to get the chrome button pulled back out might help.
Gilly

[rowdie]

As a last resort before breaking the tail light have you thought about a slide hammer. Used to work for thieves pulling an ignition switch year ago.

[Jack M]

Good Morning,
I think the
slide hammer is a good idea.
the goal is to get the cylinder mechanism out of your way so you can manually release the latch. The trunk lid id held in place with 4 bolts on the hinges but the torsion rods are in a welded bracket. No Access even if you cut holes in the bottom of the trunk and used verylong ratches and extensions.

The chrome trim piece I described earlier looks like it has ears on it that are held in place by the two other chrome strips on either side.. which are held in place from the inside of the trunk.

Now that we talked about what you can't do. Get the cylinder clear its the thinnest metal and it should clear. Remember this car was build by the same folks that built Panzer Vagons (Tanks). Good Luck

[Gilly]

I think they only built the engines...........

I am not talking about the hinges, I am talking about the striker for the latch.

Gilly

[Jack M]

Hello again, To Gilley. I thought that If you could reach the trunk lid and remove the 4 hinge bolts than the lid should come off . No access due to battery, etc.. Jack M

[snookwhaler]

Have you tried the orbital/vibrating sander trick yet?

Try it off to the side and on the cylinder at different speeds.

My button has both stuck in and with the keyhole in different positions. The rubber pad on the bottom of the sander has worked in both instances. Its worth a try before you start more drastic measures.

I'm not touching mine again until I have time to fix it.

[rocky raccoon]

Lots of suggestions from you guys and I appreciate. Working today but tomorrow, I will start through the list. I also sent off to ************** for a manual that promises to impart secrets for emergency entry into 123 trunks. Not specifically 107 but same era so maybe they know something we don't. Worth looking.

I'll take my hard top off tomorrow (it's time anyway) and see if the soft top well is removable from the inside. First though will take off the chrome strip and see what I can see.

All this ticks me off. The car has been a reliable daily driver and some Mickey Mouse thing like this pops up.