107 - Leak from Driver's Side Courtesy Light

[Kimolaoha]

Hello all -
1983 380SL
This has been bugging me for a couple of seasons now. When it rains, I get a steady drip leak from the driver's side overhead courtesy light (in the visor area). In the past, I've tried to seal the area around the soft top worm gears, and also put a bead of silicone around the windshield, but the leak continues.
I suspect it is some sort of drainage problem, and have searched the forum, but all of the listed leaks seem to be from further below than mine.
I have read that there are six drain ports under the car that can be blown with compressed air, but have not yet found them.
Any ideas as to why I'm getting this leak? Seems odd that it would be coming from the driver's side only, and not from BOTH lights. Also, it seems to be worse when the nose of the car is inclined downward, as opposed to parking nose up.
Any ideas? Or tips on how to get access to this area to investigate? I couldn't find anything in the shop manual, but must admit I have problems navigating the disc.
Thanks

[Strife]

1. You do have the little seals that go into the holes for the pins on the stainless steel cowl top, right? They are cheap and easy to install. I'd look at that first.

2. Failing that, look at the condition of the gasket from the top to the cowl. This is a major pain to install correctly, and it's important to take pictures of how it was installed and take notes while removing it. The hardtop and softtop seals are identical as far as I can tell.

3. Failing that, it could theoretically be a leak behind the upper aluminum trim of the windshield. This is very diffcult to remove without damage and can involve removing all of the windshield trim.

[Kimolaoha]

Originally Posted by Strife

1. You do have the little seals that go into the holes for the pins on the stainless steel cowl top, right? They are cheap and easy to install. I'd look at that first. .

Umm . . . no, I don't.

Bought the car in 1999 and never had, and have never seen, them. The holes are bare, i.e. no selas, gaskets, etc. and the worm gear posts from the soft top just pop down into the bare holes. Can you describe what SHOULD be there, part number, etc.?

Oddly, the leaking problem only started a couple of years ago.

Thanks

[dugald]

1076880097
at the dealer or **********
Couple bucks apiece

[Kimolaoha]

Originally Posted by dugald

http://www.**********.com/search/product.aspx?sid=zabp3hfsrklwmd55milivq55&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1195309@560SL&year=1986&cid=13@Body,%20Trim%20%26%20Lighting&gid=1214@Clips%20and%20Miscellaneous%20Trim%20Pieces

Thanks, but the link doesn't seem to work.
I found these -- http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/product.asp?pf_id=P77-004&dept_id=6145 -- but they appear to be plastic and do not look like they would actually seal against leaks.

[dugald]

That's what Strife was referring to.0
I agree they aren't seals ... at least they didn't stop my leak.
I think their main purpose is to stop rattles.

[Kimolaoha]

Originally Posted by dugald

That's what Strife was referring to.0
I agree they aren't seals ... at least they didn't stop my leak.
I think their main purpose is to stop rattles.

OK thanks.
Are you also leaking from the driver's side courtesy light?
I've found some anecdotal evidence of this problem elsewhere.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1308877-picture-nylon-bushing-roof-what.html

[dugald]

On my 560, the water drips from the general area of the driver's sunvisor pivot onto my knee. Looks like I've peed my pants.
Good thing I don't drive in rain often.

[Kimolaoha]

Originally Posted by dugald

On my 560, the water drips from the general area of the driver's sunvisor pivot onto my knee. Looks like I've peed my pants.
Good thing I don't drive in rain often.

Nice.



Anyone else out there with any ideas on how to help dugald and me with our incontinence issues?

I ordered the pads from the forum sponsor (PeachtreeParts.com) but am not optimistic that they are going to solve my issue.

[Strife]

If you don't feel some pretty significant resistance when turning the latches to close the roof, the front hardtop/softtop seal to cowl is old and compressed, and it should be replaced. This is a tricky seal to install, and the sides require actually removing the above-the-windows seal rails (screws under the rubber), tucking the front seal in, screwing them back down, and then reinstalling the above-the-window seals.

One idea I'd try to see if the seal really works or not is to put a piece of paper between the cowl and top, andput the top down and slowly latch it while a friend checks the resistance of the paper to being pulled out. If the top is closed and there isn't a lot of resistance, or if it's almost closed and there isn't any, it needs to be replaced. Just because it looks like it's OK doesn't mean that it still actually works, it may have lost it's "springyness" and won't close the gap anymore.

[Kimolaoha]

Originally Posted by Strife

If you don't feel some pretty significant resistance when turning the latches to close the roof, the front hardtop/softtop seal to cowl is old and compressed, and it should be replaced. This is a tricky seal to install, and the sides require actually removing the above-the-windows seal rails (screws under the rubber), tucking the front seal in, screwing them back down, and then reinstalling the above-the-window seals.

One idea I'd try to see if the seal really works or not is to put a piece of paper between the cowl and top, andput the top down and slowly latch it while a friend checks the resistance of the paper to being pulled out. If the top is closed and there isn't a lot of resistance, or if it's almost closed and there isn't any, it needs to be replaced. Just because it looks like it's OK doesn't mean that it still actually works, it may have lost it's "springyness" and won't close the gap anymore.

OK thanks for the response, and the ideas.
As a temporary "patch", and to see if a loose seal is indeed the culprit, what do you think of simply setting a piece of suitable rubber gasket/seal (to be hunted down at Lowe's) on top of the stainless header before locking down the soft top? An appropriately sized piece wouldn't be seen when the top was up, but may be enough of a seal to close any gap until I have the time to acquire and replace the worn seals with 'proper' parts.
Thoughts?