R107 Restoration

[Richard Wooldridge]

Benzmeister, you most likely have a vacuum leak. The Climate Control II system in your '79 will not function with a leaky vacuum pod, the loss of vacuum will cause the vacuum operated switch that turns stuff on when a button is pushed to fail to operate. If you remove the glove box liner and start checking for leaky pods you will probably find that there are several leaky ones - my car had several, completely prevented the heater/AC from operating. The default operation with leaky pods is lots of air to the defrost, and if you push the AC on switch, it will get cold, but no heat at all.

[SilverSaloon]

Originally Posted by Strife

This has inspired me to replace the bushings on the upper A-arms - I've had the parts around for a year but was nervous about doing it.

Also interesting is that you didn't have a problem with the aftermarket fenders (which no doubt all come from the same place) - I am seriously considering biting the bullet and replacing mine on the 380SL, which have a little bit of creeping rust, and grinding/filling/painting is a battle I know from experience that I will lose.

if you mean the same job as myself on the upper arms then replacement probably took me (never done it before) 30 mins each side and that wasnt rushing either.

i was relieved that the wing (fender) fitted ok.

new post '86 spoiler now fitted:



http://r107restoration.blogspot.com/

[Benzmeister]

Too bad U can't find a body shop that still works with lead as filler instead of bondo. I had lead used on an 86 Porsche Carrerra I had 10 ago and the results were fantastic and the person I sold the car took took a magnet over the car and the area I had fixed and it stayed in place.

[Benzmeister]

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

Benzmeister, you most likely have a vacuum leak. The Climate Control II system in your '79 will not function with a leaky vacuum pod, the loss of vacuum will cause the vacuum operated switch that turns stuff on when a button is pushed to fail to operate. If you remove the glove box liner and start checking for leaky pods you will probably find that there are several leaky ones - my car had several, completely prevented the heater/AC from operating. The default operation with leaky pods is lots of air to the defrost, and if you push the AC on switch, it will get cold, but no heat at all.

By pods do you mean the vacuum switches, sort of round things?

[Richard Wooldridge]

No, the pods are the diaghrams that actually move in response to the applied vacuum. They seem to only last about 15 - 20 years(!), being made of rubber. I believe replacement diaghrams are available if you want to try rebuilding them. You can do a search in the SL forum on this subject, and most likely come up with the source. Also, we should probably move this topic out of this thread, as it's off-subject...

[Benzmeister]

I forgot to mention I did several smoke test on the vacuum system under the dash. Couldn't find any leaks, which makes the problem even more mysterious. I also tested some of the pods and they worked fine, I used a vacuum pump for these test. I wonder if the leak is in the engine compartment someplace? However there are vacuum lines all over the place and aside from the central vacuum point on the engine, I can find a place to start a smoke test on the engine vacuum.

[SilverSaloon]

Originally Posted by Benzmeister

Too bad U can't find a body shop that still works with lead as filler instead of bondo. I had lead used on an 86 Porsche Carrerra I had 10 ago and the results were fantastic and the person I sold the car took took a magnet over the car and the area I had fixed and it stayed in place.

i replace one wing with a new one.

i did use (an apparently new product) that has metal in the filler. its slogan is "its like replacing metal with metal".

[rowdie]

Derek,

Just finished ready your blog and am very impressed with your work. I am currently working on an '81 280SL Euro. Really liked the late model Inner wing cover install.

Only one thing that hasn't been mentioned in this thread is the subframe problem. Does your '85 have the updated subframe? Found a crack in my '81 2 weeks ago. Also noticed the subframe mounts could use some attention. Not nitpicking, just observing.

Jim

[Richard Wooldridge]

The only successful way to troubleshoot a vacuum system is to use a tool, like the harbor freight item 92474-0VGA, a low cost vacuum pump with gauge. ($16.99), or a mity-vac. You cannot successfully test the system with a "smoke test".

[SilverSaloon]

Originally Posted by rowdie

Derek,

Just finished ready your blog and am very impressed with your work. I am currently working on an '81 280SL Euro. Really liked the late model Inner wing cover install.

Only one thing that hasn't been mentioned in this thread is the subframe problem. Does your '85 have the updated subframe? Found a crack in my '81 2 weeks ago. Also noticed the subframe mounts could use some attention. Not nitpicking, just observing.

Jim

hi

yes i'd recommend those arch wing covers to any SL owner. it covers not only the tops of the wings (corners where mud can collect) but mainly up above the headlamp bowls that will eventually rust through.

i've not really worked on any mechanical side of things yet as the bodywork has taken up all of my time.

my plan is to give it a full service before its back on the road, fluids, filters, plugs, leads etc.

the subframe mounts probably do need attention at some point - all those will be overhalled at some point. i plan to replace all the rubber mounts/bushes etc over time.... probably next winter.

the subframe recall doesnt cover the UK but luckly my car seems ok on that score as far as i can see. i've no idea if its been fixed in the past. its not something i know alot about - is there an easy way from looking to tell if its got the later or earlier subframe?

thanks

derek

[rowdie]

Originally Posted by SilverSaloon

hi

yes i'd recommend those arch wing covers to any SL owner. it covers not only the tops of the wings (corners where mud can collect) but mainly up above the headlamp bowls that will eventually rust through.

i've not really worked on any mechanical side of things yet as the bodywork has taken up all of my time.

my plan is to give it a full service before its back on the road, fluids, filters, plugs, leads etc.

the subframe mounts probably do need attention at some point - all those will be overhalled at some point. i plan to replace all the rubber mounts/bushes etc over time.... probably next winter.

the subframe recall doesnt cover the UK but luckly my car seems ok on that score as far as i can see. i've no idea if its been fixed in the past. its not something i know alot about - is there an easy way from looking to tell if its got the later or earlier subframe?

thanks

derek

Try here. The first pic is of my '81 280SL which has a small crack. Other pics also show failure, MB gussets welded on and the updated subframe.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1450267-sub-frame-recall-information.html

[SilverSaloon]

Originally Posted by rowdie

Try here. The first pic is of my '81 280SL which has a small crack. Other pics also show failure, MB gussets welded on and the updated subframe.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1450267-sub-frame-recall-information.html

thanks for that - i'll take a good look at mine tonight.

[Benzmeister]

Originally Posted by Richard Wooldridge

The only successful way to troubleshoot a vacuum system is to use a tool, like the harbor freight item 92474-0VGA, a low cost vacuum pump with gauge. ($16.99), or a mity-vac. You cannot successfully test the system with a "smoke test".

I also have a vacuum pump and tested the pods or rubber diaphrams and they all worked the way they should. I had a buyer looking at the car yesterday, he told me of a private Mercedes shop in a nearby town that works on these HVAC systems. The guy has a 76, 81 SLC's and a 95 SL500 He took my 79 for a hours ride and when he returned he said this is one of the best running SLC's he has driven. Now if I could only get the HVAC to work. I did fix the vacuum leak on the passenger side. The vacuum was leaking back to the tank I put one of the blue and black thing in line on the blue vacuum hose now the door lock, gas door lock trunk lock all work. I checked in the shop manual on the HVAC, the vacuum for the HVAC is supposed to come directly off the engine, a white vac tube from the main vacuum distribution point. Can find this vacuum tube/line on my car?

PS: The guy who test drove my car is thinking about buying it as is. He said aside from the HVAC the car is in great shape, better then his other two and for what I am asking for it, its a steal.

[GaryF]

Originally Posted by SilverSaloon

yes the main one that comes out of the motor was rusted on with mine. i put the end piece in a vice and pulled hard and it eventually came free with some spray lube (WD40).

definatly worth doing and it will come free eventually. then treat it with rust remover liquid, and then when refitting, coat it with a thick grease of some kind.

these rods are No Longer Available from mercedes anymore (i tried to get one) so repair is the only option unless you can replace with a similar cable from a DIY store.

Having been spured on I took the front bumper off (amazed by the lack of rust I was expecting the worst) and unscrewed and removed the headlamp wiper mechanism. The previous owner had re-fitted the passenger wiper without the rectangle steel block that locks the wiper to the arm and spaces the arm away from the body. So it wasnt rusted at all, the wiper arm was cutting into the bodywork so I have an arc of rust to fix and need to make a replacement block. Probably an easier problem to deal with in the end.

[SilverSaloon]

Originally Posted by GaryF

Having been spured on I took the front bumper off (amazed by the lack of rust I was expecting the worst) and unscrewed and removed the headlamp wiper mechanism. The previous owner had re-fitted the passenger wiper without the rectangle steel block that locks the wiper to the arm and spaces the arm away from the body. So it wasnt rusted at all, the wiper arm was cutting into the bodywork so I have an arc of rust to fix and need to make a replacement block. Probably an easier problem to deal with in the end.

hi

well done - i hope you get them working again.

A1078240011 is the Merc part number for the wiper steel block. very cheap from a dealer.

EDIT - just rang my dealer and apparently the above part number may be NLA - so you (and me aswell) may have to make one up. i recon the easiest way to do this would be to buy a washer and then with careful use of an angle grinder, shape it into the correct size using the other side as a template.

also another good tip is to fit the steel block and the retaining nut loosly BEFORE re-attaching the bumper. the wiper will then slot in, but getting the nut on the bumper with it in situ is quite fiddily, on euro bumpers atleast.