Hot and Cold idle miss on my D Jet

[meltedpanda]

moved 5 clicks to rich, seems a little better.More to follow

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

Anyone care to tell me how many clicks their ecu is say clockwise from full lean. That is the only adjust correct??

It does have a lot to do with the MPS, so ECU idle setting on one car means nothing on another.

To tune, ECU is set to mid range. Then you have to set up exhaust %CO with MPS with TPS disconnected (to eliminate the idle circuit). Then reconnect TPS and fine tune with ECU knob. Can't be done without an analyzer.

You can buy the British made one (Gastester) for about $200+ or you could get a portable wideband AFR meter. I installed a permanent AEM wideband unit so have continuous readout of AFR ratio (which has a relationship with %CO). Innovate make a portable unit. Not cheap. Depending on where you are, maybe there is someone who could do this for you?

[meltedpanda]

Well I need to do a little more detective work. I wonder in its past life it the distributor was put in a tooth off. It is rotated all the way clockwise, and just like the ecu does not seem right. I am also going to OHM the plug wires, and perhaps replace plugs.( again) According to Watsons book on the DJET the common cause for misfire or erratic idle is the ignition and tune up specs, and the MAP. Continuity between temp sensors and the trigger points can also be suspect.
Ah the life of a DJET owner, anyone have a good used MAP unit??

AND , AND AND,

do you guys set timing by vacuum or light
If by vacuum - where do you access the draw?
If by light , what should these be set at , I have read posts and all are different??

And
Temp sensor 1 and temp sensor two reffered to in book, is one on the air intake , and 2 by the thermostat?

[meltedpanda]

timing at 3000 RPM should be __________ fill in the blank

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

timing at 3000 RPM should be __________ fill in the blank

About 28 deg BTDC with vac line disconnected and plugged. Distributor WILL be almost at end of adjustment. Vacuum at idle should be in 15-18in Hg range measured by putting tee into MPS connection, but I sometimes cheat and connect my Mityvac to the connection on the firewall that comes up off the back of the intake manifold.

BTW - make sure you don't have a leak in the vac line from the throttle to solenoid valve to Distributor. Also check that diaphragm hold a vacuum and that you actually have a vaccum at the distributor at idle.

Good Luck.

[meltedpanda]

thanks, how much vacuum should I expect at idle at the distributor?

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

thanks, how much vacuum should I expect at idle at the distributor?

It don't recall exactly - Because of the way it is pulled off the side of the throttle housing it is a lower vacuum that in the intake manifold. Probably about 10" ? Just enough to operate the vacuum retard mechanism.

BTW - if you are not getting vacuum and the tubing is connected, check that the small orifice in the throttle is not blocked - I had to clean mine out once.

[meltedpanda]

OK , I am going to check everything before changing out parts, I assume , most if not all of these tests are with the car to temp?

[meltedpanda]

I am not sure I understand this, why do I have two of these??? Thought the DJET had one fuel pressure regulator?
thoughts??
Began component testing today!

[Gurunutkins]

the first is a pressure regulator and the second is a pulse damper.
I tend to do an initial tune at 3000 rpm as graham suggested and then finish off with a little fine tuning to get max vacuum at idle.
cheers
barri

[meltedpanda]

which one adjusts the fuel pressure to 30?

[Gurunutkins]

the one with the 2 pipes going into the sides and the one pipe going out of the bottom to the pressure pulse damper - so the regulator part you adjust has the 3 pipes and the damper is the one with 2 pipes.
you need to put your pressure gauge in the ring - generally off the cold start injector feed (just disconnect from the cold start injector or valve). I have an electric fuel pressure sender hooked into mine permanently - they don't vary a lot - mainly so I can see if there is a catastrophic loss of pressure before the flames come licking out of the edges of the engine bay
cheers
barri

[meltedpanda]

thanks barri, ran out of time today, so I will attack again tomorow that is unless the "honey dos" get in the way

[Gurunutkins]

know how that feels - I was supposed to be welding new floor pans in the mini I am restoring and ended up spending the day hanging wind chimes etc

[meltedpanda]

lol, hear ya, I went "shopping". ANyways back at it and realized several of my connectors to the "senders" temp 1 temp 2 and even the trigger points are in bad repair, anyone find a source for these or an aftermarket connector that would work. I thought these buggers came apart but they dont!