Hot and Cold idle miss on my D Jet

[meltedpanda]

I will gap em at .030, right in the middle of specs.

[meltedpanda]

Originally Posted by rowdie

I shall look at the '72.
Nope it is broken.

thanks for looking, any connectors?? especially the little dual flange one on the injectors or temp senders??

I have a call into MB classic center as well

[meltedpanda]

for the connector on the trigger points i had to just replace one side of the connector with colour coded bullet connectors.

hope thats some help
cheers
Barri

Barri , can you elaborate here , you created a connector??

[winecountryone]

I have not seen any of these in the PNP yards that still have the rubber "boot" intact.Same for the temp and injector connectors.The plastic connectors themselves I find from time to time.If the dealer or classic center are no luck I'll be happy to look around.
Most of the "boots" on my 74 are missing...But it seems to run ok
If they do any kind of emission testing in your area the machines usually have a manual mode that can be used to set the CO.You might ask them if they would do it for a nominal fee.I set mine and my emission readings show a very clean running engine despite it having 180K miles.

[Gurunutkins]

Ok Ron you got me
I dont use any of the djet system anymore but its all still in the car.

I actually rebuilt my trigger point and rewired the whole thing using different coloured wires. I have pictures below but I used different coloured wires with bullet connectors on the ends - as I am sure you dont want to rewire yours I thought you would just need to replace the broken connector wire ends with different coloured bullet connectors so you know where to put them

just out of interest i bought a box of VW and volvo trigger points (only 2 per plate) I took 2 of those (so 4 sets of points) and disassembled my mercedes 4 point set and replaced them with the 4 pulled off two sets of volvo / VW sets. the bullet connectors just plug right into the existing plug above the thermostat housing. I actually rebuilt 3 sets of mercedes trigger points this way to keep as spares before i converted to megasquirt.

I also took a couple of pics of the bosch connectors wired to my injectors and the air intake temp sensor. they look a bit bulky but work very well.

also in the second picture you can see my fuel pressure sender on the RHS off the cold start valve feed line - remember i dont use the cold start valve now as the megasquirt controls my warm up enrichment.

hope it makes sense
cheers
barri


harness from the trigger points to the place where the connector was. they just sit there right now I will remove them one day


fuel pressure sender on the RHS under the breather tube from the valve cover


bosch connector on the intake air temp sensor


difficult to see ( I was lazy and didnt want to remove the air filter) but a bosch connector on my fuel injector

[meltedpanda]

I am begining to think you are MR Wizzard (lol) nice work and great work around. Wish you lived close by I'd come over for some lessons!

[Gurunutkins]

Thanks Ron - comes from too many years of never having enough money to do things properly or living in countries where you cant get parts! thats why I love this forum - always something new to learn.
I'll keep my eyes open on the way through my local pull a parts as well see if any of the little plugs show up
cheers
barri

[meltedpanda]

well you have done a good job! looking in PNP would be great, I NEVER see any in the yards around here with an old MB in them

[meltedpanda]

ohmed all the plug wires, ( were good) regapped plugs, ( bad) fixed several bad connections. I was able to figure out how to remove the pins on the old trigger point connector and in the process of trying to figure out how to reuse the pins and make better connections, several of the wires are hanging by a few strands, that cant be good, but the little pin things are crimped on the wire and looks like it could be a very difficult surgery. More to follow. An old car mecanic told me today that most early fuel injection issues on the djet were due to ignition issues or connection issues and less so with the components of the FI sytem itself. So I am going to rule out all of those issues.

[meltedpanda]

well after several days of redoing connectors, setting points, plugs, refurb of the TPS, checking for vacuum leaks, testing fuel pressure, dwell, timing and such, the ol gal is running like a fine swiss watch!!
In retrospect I think the problem all along was the TPS and a broken /weak connection on my Temp sender #1. But I got to do a lot of learning and spent quality time bent over the engine bay. With the help of a computer repair friend of mine, we were able to refurbish all the suspect connections
That said , I feel vey good about all the settings except for the CO. I did set the ECU dial just a few clicks lean from the center setting, It seemed to sound best there. I still think it smells rich. I am in quest of a analyzer, no one around here has one.

Of course the cold start tomorrow , may negate all I just said....
Thanks to everyone for thier help. I now can talk intellgently about the Djet system

[meltedpanda]

OK assuming I have a CO meter. Is this the Idle adjustment procedure??

warm engine ( AAV should close all the way)
SET idle - question - with or without air cleaner housing??
Set at 750RPM using screw on top of AVV - Correct??

and then set CO and readjust RPM??

I lost my papers on this procedure - can someone confirm...

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

OK assuming I have a CO meter. Is this the Idle adjustment procedure??

warm engine ( AAV should close all the way)
SET idle - question - with or without air cleaner housing??
Set at 750RPM using screw on top of AVV - Correct??

and then set CO and readjust RPM??

I lost my papers on this procedure - can someone confirm...

Glad to hear you are running well!

You can leave air cleaner in place - that way your air temp sensor will be connected and it probably should be.

If you are only checking the %CO at idle, then adjust ECU screw one click at a time and rev engine in between. Let is settle down before checking CO reading. Quite a large range is given :- 0.5% - 2.0%. For economy stay to low side, maybe 1%? Once you get desired reading, go for drive and check it again. When checking, the analyzer needs a proper pick up tube that will go up the exhaust - The outside air can mess up the readings when at idle.

But, this procedure only checks %CO when idle circuit is controlling injection. To adjust CO at higher loads, the MPS has to be adjusted (different procedure)

PS: Don't use one of those old wheatstone bridge analysers that are often on eBay - they just don't work properly. Only current DIY CO analyzer seems to be the Gunson. Or better still, use a good wideband AFR gauge.(by Innovate, AEM and others)

PPS: Almost any garage should have a 5-gas analyzer and will be able to measure CO along with HC and other gases. Emission test shops will sometimes do a trial run for you. I first had mine done at a local shop about 1/4 mile from my house, which is out in the country!

[meltedpanda]

thanks , I got a lead on a CO analyzer , want to have my ducks in a row.so the adjustment in RPM is the screw on the AVV correct?

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

thanks , I got a lead on a CO analyzer , want to have my ducks in a row.so the adjustment in RPM is the screw on the AVV correct?

Not sure what an AVV is Air Vent Valve?

Anyway, it's the big slotted screw facing upwards, in the part that the hose from the AAV connects to.

[meltedpanda]

yup AAV, one in the same on my planet lol