560 Sl Rear Bearing Removal

[ironman21]

I have the rear hubs disassembled and just received new wheel bearing kits for both sides. I have the races removed and the new ones installed the inner bearing is off (pretty easy) however the outer bearing (on the spindle) is giving me a problem. I found a MB bearing puller but it costs $400.00 so that is not an option, has anyone removed this bearing, if so how did you do it? I am sure it has been discussed but the searches produced very little info. So how does one remove a rear wheel bearing the McGiver way? In addition how does one check end play? I have an Indy that could do the job but I am so far along I would like to finish it myself; I have a press so installing the new bearing will be a snap.

[Deltacom]

Here is an excellent DIY article by Dmorrison for the complete operation. Although it is for a 123 & 126 the same applies for 107.

While you are at it, it would be advisable to replace driveshaft center bearing and flex disks.


You can also use a bearing puller as the pic below for $25.

[ironman21]

Deltacom thank-you for the DYI article regarding the wheel bearings, it was awesome. It is pretty much what I have done so far up to the bearing removal, except I am dismantling the entire rear end and both wheel carriers are being done on the bench. Everything is being sand blasted and refinished along with new bushings, bearings, fittings, shocks etc. The differential is next to come out then the trailing arms and sub-frame, I was going to leave the drive shaft alone but you have convinced me and you are right the flex discs and center bearing should be replaced even although they look to be in good shape. The front end is completely redone, this may seem like a lot of work but I got the car for my 50th birthday and feel that I owe it to those who pitched in and bought it for me. Once the mechanicals are completed the body and interior are next. Last but not least I am going out to find the bearing puller as shown in you picture, any idea where I can find it?

Thanks again
John

[ironman21]

The bearing has been removed! Went to Harbor Freight and found 2 bearing separators, one came in a nice kit with different adaptors and everything included the other is a simple bearing separator the first was $50 the other $20. After pacing back and forth I decided to by the $20 one worked fine. If you go with the cheaper one you will need a puller shown in the pictures, it is pretty straight forward and it took about 5 minutes to set up and 2 minuets to pull the bearing. I don't think the bearing is good for much now but a paperweight but if have gone this far replace it. Just make sure you tighten the separator so it catches the inner race of the bearing, if not all you will do is pull the cage. Be sure to protect the top of the spindel, I used a socket and plenty of blaster.

[Chas H]

In the DIY article, the author has assembled the outer bear and seal on the hub. This is not correct. The outer bearing and seal should first be fitted into their respective places in the trailing arm, then the hub pressed into them. Done as shown in the DIY, the seal will not be properly fitted and will be proud of its bore.

[Deltacom]

Hi John,

An 107 for a birthday present is a fantastic token of affection and love for you from those who really value and appreciate you. You are very fortunate!!.

I am impressed by all the work you are undertaking on one of these Teutonic Rhine Barges. I went through all those stages you are going now last year and overhauled completely the front subframe/suspension and rear end. It is very gratifying to restore these Panzerwagens. Glad you found the bearing puller and the combination you bought is just the same as the kit I bought (on my above pic) and did the job very well. Great pics of the bearing work. It will no doubt help others on this process. Wise decision on planning to replace d-shaft center-bearing and flex disks, it will be easier now that you have everything dismantled than later on when eventually will need to be replaced. Congratulations on the work you are doing. Will be good to see your pics on reinstallation of bearing on the flange shaft for others to see.

+ + + + + + +

Hi Chas H,

Good observation on the DIY article but it only applies to the sealing ring and not the bearing. The writer might have ultimately installed the seal on the wheel carrier, we don’t know, but the bearing must be installed on the flange shaft together with the crush washer PRIOR to installation of the flange into the wheel carrier. But your comments will no doubt assist others in installing the seal first onto the wheel carrier (trailing arm).

FYI, from Mercedes Benz workshop service manual:

[ironman21]

Hey Deltacom

Yes my family and friends were good to me............I think! We will see once the car is finished, it was in pretty good nick but I have had this strange compulsion at a very young age to tear things apart and rebuild them. I find the 107 quite easy except for having all the tools on hand to do the job but my collection has grown over the years and keeps growing now I feel like a tool hoarder. My favorite is the blast cabinet bye bye rust, parts washer, press, special MB tools will it ever end, I hope not.

I have a 1929 Ford that is next in line, all original should be easy but I find myself dreaming of another MB as a project, weird. I am running out of room my garage its like a puzzle.

Anyway, once I am finished, I will try to do a step by step procedure on replacing the wheel bearings

Thanks again for your help and kind words