Modulator adjustment , old steel type

[meltedpanda]

while I have Pearl inoperative for a few days thought I would try and adjust the modulator valve ( old steel style with 4mm allen in the end) to firm up shifts a bit , no vacuum issues and linkages are adjusted . Does anyone know for sure is CW for firmer CCW for softer?
I have the MB manual , but of course it is vague

[meltedpanda]

can someone confirm
CW = less pressure = softer shift?
CCW = more pressure = harder shift
this is like the plastic type on diesels???

like this'
http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com//722.118_transmission_adjustments.html

also bowden cable , if too tight - would it delay shift - that may be my issue??

[rowdie]

Bowden Cable????? The rod linkage could be worn or the ball joint on the intake shot. Bushing at trans arm missing?

[meltedpanda]

haha, too much time with diesels, the shift linkage that mates with the throttle, whatever that is called
I basically flairs into 3rd, feels just like letting your foot off the clutch too slowly in a when shifting gears

I may just replace modulator , been doing a lot of searching but can find no real clues as to what to do , or what may be cause,

I did find a write up on the steel modulator valve , but most say that to adjust an old one is wortless or impossible or both ,
This is not a bad issue , just annoying.
I am bound and determined to drive this girl alot this summer, and I want to be as nice as possible, with little issue .
No reason I can see to keep her under wraps.

[meltedpanda]

nix the replacement idea
part # 0002700179 seems to be unavailable. Oh I guess MB classic may have it , and I 'd have to get a loan lol

[rowdie]

This place shows it. No guarantee they can get it and I hear their shipping charges are outlandish.
[XXXX

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

haha, too much time with diesels, the shift linkage that mates with the throttle, whatever that is called
I basically flairs into 3rd, feels just like letting your foot off the clutch too slowly in a when shifting gears

Ron,
I used to have poor shift points, but just messing around with the control rod cured that.

In my case, the rod had got bent when I had the front transmission seal replaced, so I first had to get the rod bent back somewhere near original.

I also changed the small bushing on the transmission control lever where the control rod attaches. That needs to be done before attempting to set up the control rod. Access is not good!

They say to push the rod back and then line up the ball/socket on the throttle linkage. But at first I did not realize that you have to push the rod back in a way that actually pushes that under-car lever all the way back against it's stop.

Glad to see you are nor running out of projects!

[meltedpanda]

is that the shift kickdown rod that is showing in Rowdies picture?
I know I changed the shifter bushing , but not that one , hmm looks interesting

was the idea to get all the slack out of it when pushed against the stop?

Oh and never really run out of projects
Going to look at a 78 barn find ( as in - still in the barn) 300D Friday

[rowdie]

That is it. It connects with a ball socket on the end not shown.

[Graham]

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

is that the shift kickdown rod that is showing in Rowdies picture?
I know I changed the shifter bushing , but not that one , hmm looks interesting

was the idea to get all the slack out of it when pushed against the stop?

Oh and never really run out of projects
Going to look at a 78 barn find ( as in - still in the barn) 300D Friday

Yes, it is that rod, but I don't think it has anything to do with the kick-down, does it? I repaired the kick-down on my car, and it is actuated by a switch behind the accelerator pedal that actuates a solenoid.

Yes, I put in a new bushing on that lever - Mine had completely worn out and had about 1/4" of slack. Part number is A110 277 05 50. There is also a washer N000125 006 449. Mine got lost and shop replaced it with one that is too thin and sloppy on pin. There is also a cotter pin. I need to redo this job

[rowdie]

Graham is correct. There is a switch under the pedal. I don't see how it connects to the trans.

[Graham]

Originally Posted by rowdie

Graham is correct. There is a switch under the pedal. I don't see how it connects to the trans.

The circuit comprises a foot switch under the pedal and a solenoid that fits into the side of the transmission. It has 12v power to it. You hit the pedal hard to activate the foot switch and the solenoid plunger activates. Just what it does inside the tranny to cause it to downshift, I don't know!

My solenoid was bad, but I got one from Sun Valley dismantlers for $50.00.

But, I never use it!

[rowdie]

Totally forgot about the solenoid. I edited the picture to reflect that.

[meltedpanda]

oh, my kickdown is good , just my flair into third, , I am going to adjust linkage per above, last time I did it I did not ensure the rod was against stop underneath car, I could see how that could play a part in the shift pattern. I will let you know
BTW - got the trigger points, brand new as described , in official NOS Mercedes logoed bag, very nice. The male end is nothing more than a standard 6 plug found all over mercedes , I hope I have one lying about . more to follow!

[cushjbc]

Pardon the resurection of a year old thread, but I need to replace my transmission control arm bushing (mine is gone). I do not understand how to best get at this bushing. Is it done from passenger side underneath? (tunnel is tight) Can you get at it by removing the shifter assembly?

The discussion about pushing the control arm back against its stop - is this to provide better access to the bushing or does it have to with control arm adjustment? I am usually better at disassembly than reassembly; the tight space to work this replacement gives me concern over the latter.