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  #1  
Old 10-29-2011, 09:11 PM
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82 380 SL Valve or Lifter Stuck

I have one valve (apparently it has too much clearance) or the Hydraulic Lifter is stuck in place. I read that the Hydraulic Lifters do not need to be adjusted. How do I get rid of the clicking noise? Do I remove the valve cover and see if there is any other malfunction? Suggestions - comments - get me started. It has been a long time since I have been inside an engine.
Mike
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2011, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laboyma53 View Post
I have one valve (apparently it has too much clearance) or the Hydraulic Lifter is stuck in place. I read that the Hydraulic Lifters do not need to be adjusted. How do I get rid of the clicking noise? Do I remove the valve cover and see if there is any other malfunction? Suggestions - comments - get me started. It has been a long time since I have been inside an engine.
Mike
Before I remove the valve cover, I'd hold a stethoscope up to the cover to try to determine which valve is clicking. In my case, the clicking turned out to be from a worn rocker, and replacing it eliminated the clicking. However, if you want to do the job correctly, you may also need to change the shims or thrust washers that sit on the valve, which requires using the Go-NO Go gauge that MB specifically designed for that job, and buying several shims.

OTOH, the clicking could be caused by a stuck lifter, as you mentioned. If that's the case, you could try adding a can of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crank case, since many MB owners in this and other forums have stated that Marvel freed up their stuck lifters.

Finally, the clicking could be coming from a loose valve guide, in which case the only solution is to do a valve job. But, hopefully, that won't be necessary.

In any case, good luck!
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2011, 08:32 PM
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380 SL valve sticking

I already know the major work that involves doing a valve job. I am not that good.
As for the lifter - I will buy the additive that you mentioned and give it a shot. I will also get a stetoscope from a friend and listen - I am not totally sure but it sounds like 4 or 6.
Thank you and I will give a shot.
Miguel
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2011, 09:07 PM
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Four and six are on opposite sides of the engine. MB is 1-4 on the right side and 5-8 on the left. Right and left are designated viewing from the back of the engine and vehicle.
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2011, 02:05 AM
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There are no hydraulic lifters in your motor

The R107 V8 uses a SOHC design on each bank like the earlier 6-cyls with 'rocker-arm' cam followers pivoting on adjustable ball-pins. Follower-Cam Lobe clearance is set mechanically by adjustment of ball-pin height.

It would seem that a check/adjustment of this would be the first order of business.
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  #6  
Old 10-31-2011, 09:33 AM
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Valve sticking

rawdie - Yes, you are correct. I was working on another car at the same time and got the locations mixed up. I am going to read up on the adjustment procedures and give it a shot. Thank you.
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by daidnik View Post
The R107 V8 uses a SOHC design on each bank like the earlier 6-cyls with 'rocker-arm' cam followers pivoting on adjustable ball-pins. Follower-Cam Lobe clearance is set mechanically by adjustment of ball-pin height.

It would seem that a check/adjustment of this would be the first order of business.
The early models (117.982/ 116.982) are solid. Later models (117.985 etc., 116.960 etc.) have hydraulic compensators and normally require no adjustment. Thus the go-nogo gauge mentioned in the other post.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:28 AM
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