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  #1  
Old 03-26-2012, 07:15 PM
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davidlee
 
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Location: Portland OR
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Double shank lug bolts for my 92sl500?

Mercedes doesn't sell the double shank lug bolt required for my 92 SL 500

They told me they sell bolts that will hold the wheel on but they do not have the double shank bolts that come out flush with the end of the 16" wheel.
Anyone that has any info for anyone still selling these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help. David from Portland Or.

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  #2  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:30 PM
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Lug bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee View Post
Mercedes doesn't sell the double shank lug bolt required for my 92 SL 500

They told me they sell bolts that will hold the wheel on but they do not have the double shank bolts that come out flush with the end of the 16" wheel.
Anyone that has any info for anyone still selling these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help. David from Portland Or.
The reason Mercedes no longer sells those bolts is because they discovered a tendency for them to snap if torqued a bit too hard. My '96 E300D has the same bolts. Mercedes recommends swapping them for the shorter bolts. You may be able to find the longer ones used somewhere, just be careful who you let touch the wheels.

Jeremy
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  #3  
Old 03-27-2012, 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the help, That's what happened to me. I was taking my summer tires off last fall when it happened. I only broke one of them. I was able to get the broken one off without any damage done to the wheel. I feel you about the whole " be careful who you let touch your wheels " I try do do all the work I'm able to myself.
Thanks again for the feedback
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  #4  
Old 04-03-2012, 08:26 AM
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MB still sells the double shank bolts for my 500E, I just picked up 5 last week. I am thinking they are the same p/n....but maybe not.

You can also try :

Home


Put a small amount of anti-seize on the ends of the bolt threads, they'll never rust in place, which is common.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:15 AM
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sAVE YOURSELF A LOT OF GRIEF! dONT USE THE DOUBLE SHANKED BOLTS!! i HAVE A RUINED WHEEL AND HUB! hAD TO DRILL AND GRIND OUT BROKEN BOLT! rEGARDS, aBE g
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2012, 03:22 PM
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When called for, you SHOULD always use the correct double shank bolts...period. There is nothing wrong with them. MB would not have ever used them if there was a potential problem.

Here is the part number, they are available from MB as of today.

B6 647 0134

If your dealer can't get them (and they should) , PM me...I can get them at 25% off list. A set of 5 cost me $18.75.
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:03 PM
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Toeing the company line is not always correct. Example: The 107 model front subframe that that is selectively replaced or repaired by MB.

MB is not an omnipotent entity.

As Abe G stated there have been problems reported with the long shank bolts breaking leading to expensive repairs.
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2012, 04:31 PM
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Get real....lug bolts commonly break b/c they are torqued on too tight by an impact wrench. Happens all the time. Makes no difference whether its the long or short shank. You guys seem to think these lugs are bad from the get go? Really? How so? It looks as if Abe G is only speaking for himself...where is the problem report explaining all these expensive repairs due to broken long shank lugs bolts?

If the bolts in question are no truly good and failed across the board, then why is MB still selling them? Sure, MB is not omnipotent, who said they were? I don't believe they would continue to sell these if there was a problem in materials or manufacture.

The 107 subframe is an entirely different story...and totally un-related to lug bolts. Clue me in, does the SLs subframe break also when you try to remove it after torqueing the mounting bolts incorrectly?
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:40 PM
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You can bow at the altar if you wish. I choose not to.

The subframe only proves that MB does not acknowledge mistakes and accept responsibility for engineering failures. They continued with the same part for years after knowing of the problem and still ignore it to this day.

Last edited by rowdie; 05-09-2012 at 04:56 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2012, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee View Post
Thanks for the help, That's what happened to me. I was taking my summer tires off last fall when it happened. I only broke one of them. I was able to get the broken one off without any damage done to the wheel. I feel you about the whole " be careful who you let touch your wheels " I try do do all the work I'm able to myself.
Thanks again for the feedback
This is why only in dire situations do I let anyone mount tires on my car.

However, I had a shop in Atlanta do them. The owner told me that there were NO air outlets in the tire mounting area. He removed them AFTER paying a good amount of money having all four rotors on an owner's Jaguar replaced, because the bolts were torqued so hard that the rotors were warped. Also, the torque setting were noted and signed by the mechanic on my bill.

Chrome lugs ($$$) do not like air tools at all.
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Old 05-10-2012, 11:26 PM
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In my opinion, if you simply remove the wheels every 6 months (to switch from summer to winter tires) or at least to rotate them, and you use a torque wrench, you will not have problems with this type of wheel bolt. Orvertorquing them and buying new tires every 7 years will get you problems.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2012, 07:10 AM
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I have them on 3 wheels on my R107, but I am replacing them as I find shorter bolts to use. In my mind, the infinitessimal difference in the appearance of the wheel is not nearly so important as the inconvenience and expense of having a flat out in the boonies and having to have the car towed and then ripping the wheel apart.

I have not had this happen on my R107, but I have broken a couple of these puppies at junkyards.

I don't think it will happen to me, but why risk it? I notice the shanks of these things flexing as I torque them, and they are not on as tightly as I really would like either. The downside risk is too great vs. the reward. I got enough problems....

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