Help with 1974 450SL examination

[mikeyfev1]

Hello,

A friend and i are going to pre-purchase inspect a 1974 450SL tomorrow that is acknowledged to have been flooded during Hurricane Ike. The car was not being driven at the time.

I believe that the car had water about 1 foot deep in the floorboards at the worst. The car has not been started since the storm.

Given that, what would this body of experts recommend that I look at closely? I believe that unfortunately the car was flooded with salt water (near Galveston Bay, probably storm surge water in the car).

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

[rowdie]

I would not even consider this unless you need a $500.00 parts car for a '72-'75 D-Jet.

Guess I need to update my profile. I own: '72 and '73 D-jets. '81 280 SL, '84 380 and 500SL. '86 560SL. Some knowledge of price and repairing all of them.

[meltedpanda]

I'm with Rowdie, parts at best, too many areas water can sit in these things and rusted SL's are something to stay away from

[Graham]

Rowdie and Ron are no doubt correct.

But for a bottom fisher, if the drive train was not affected, then for say $500, perhaps it could be driveable? At least for a while and after that parting out will probably recover the initial cost.

The places where rust is often found, would be wheel wells, rocker panels, jack points, floor pans, bottom of trunk. Exhaust system has probably rusted out unless it was stainless. Also check all places where suspension, shocks, springs etc are anchored. You want it at least to be structurally sound.

If exterior doesn't look too bad, and you decide to buy it, it might be an idea to rust treat inside and outside all panels. Up here in Canada we have people (Krown, Rustcheck) who do that for $100 or so. Otherwise, I think you can buy a gun and the product at Napa and others.

[mespe]

Look for corrosion on electrical connections. Also a common rust problem is under the battery, there is a little weep hole that gets clogged and standing water accumulates above the passenger foot well.

Stay away if the connectors are all green.

It might be wise to wash the Jetronic box with fresh water, if it was exposed to salty water. just be 100% certain that it's completly dry before applying power.

[mikeyfev1]

Thanks to everyone who responded.

We did look at the car (it was close by) and it was quite bad. This was a case of the paint holding the rust together.

Under the rear carpet was, not the typical dark red rust, but rust with bright crystalline sparkles. Looked like a newly-established quart field. It was like this under every carpet. The door sill had a cracked piece of plastic. When I put my finger there to test the "metal" my finger went straight through the sill with no effort.

Was (is) listed in Clear Lake (Houston/NASA) area at $1400. It certainly could be a parts car (chrome bundts, red hardtop, engine looked all present), but don't bring a trailer--bring a dump truck. I doubt if it will hang together if you try to move it.

[mespe]

Originally Posted by mikeyfev1

Was (is) listed in Clear Lake (Houston/NASA) area at $1400. It certainly could be a parts car (chrome bundts, red hardtop, engine looked all present), but don't bring a trailer--bring a dump truck. I doubt if it will hang together if you try to move it.

It's amazing what some people want for a scrap 107. I looked at a 1974 rust bucket, where the current owner spray painted the trunk lid and other areas without even masking off the tail lights. The passenger side engine compartment was totally gone, hinge hanging on the hood. Headlights busted, fog lights busted, etc and he was firm on $1200,,,

[meltedpanda]

parts ,and at best $500
YOu could make some money at that and learn a lot in the breakdown