Fuse designation list for 1981 380sl m110 engine grey market

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

Looking for list that is on the backside of my fuse box panel. Current one is in German not USA. I found one for a 1984 but it is different than my 1981. Tried removing the current one but it came apart from the glue used.

[C.Doner]

You must have a rebadged car. It is actually 280sl. your vin should start with wdb1070421. Correct? the M110 is 2.8 liters.
I would get the info off your old german one translated. Someone here will likely be able to.

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

Thanks Chris. Looks like the vin # is WDB10704212010101.

This is my mother-in-law's car that we inherited.

It is crazy - The rear of trunk has the 380SL emblem but the plate on the driver's side door jamb states 280SL modified from Germany.
I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, removed gas tank and cleaned it out.

Car had sat for 10 years and was not getting fuel to engine.
On the backside of the German fuse listing was the USA version which I attempted to remove but it came apart from all the glue.
Right now, I have transmission slipping and it is idling around 1500 to 2000 rpm.

I can take my foot off the brake and it will go 15 mph without touching the gas pedal.
By the way, the transmission changed great the first week I had it running and just started slipping yesterday.

Do you have any more info on this car that will help me.
.

[nobby]

Originally Posted by Ron Seegars, Sr

Thanks Chris. Looks like the vin # is WD810704212010101. This is my mother-in-law's car that we inherited. It is crazy - The rear of trunk has the 380SL emblem but the plate on the driver's side door jamb states 280SL modified from Germany. I replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, removed gas tank and cleaned it out. Car had sat for 10 years and was not getting fuel to engine. On the backside of the German fuse listing was the USA version which I attempted to remove but it came apart from all the glue. Right now, I have transmission slipping and it is idling around 1500 to 2000 rpm. I can take my foot off the brake and it will go 15 mph without touching the gas pedal. By the way, the transmission changed great the first week I had it running and just started slipping yesterday. Do you have any more info on this car that will help me.

Oh boy. That engine will not like to sit that long.

Many things can cause a high idle....do the RPMs EVER come down after warm up?

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

It varies. Yesterday, I drove it 12 miles and it came down to around 1100 rpm. That is the longest distance I have driven since getting it to run. After stopping at my distination, the engine knocked off on me. It did not start back as well as on the mile or two trips. Temp gage read 105c if that means anything. Did not think it was that hot, however; do you suggest a new water pump and thermostat among other things due to it sitting for all those years? Body is in great shape and I just put new tires on it. I am now having negative thoughts of a possible money pit.

[C.Doner]

Make sure the thermostat is good. Hopefully the head gasket is OK. These cars can be a lot to have worked on, but if you do a bit yourself it is rewarding.
You likely have vacuum leaks. Are emissions an issue in your area. It sounds like nice car. Interior and looks are big plusses for these. Smog can be a pain.

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

Chris: Emissions standards? I am lucky enough to live in South Carolina which does not require inspections. I will try the thermostat. From what you have educated me on it could be: Idle control unit, auxliary valve, vacuum leaks, head gasket, etc. Thank you so much for all your exp ertuse and patience. I will let you know if I get the high idle problem fixed. Peachparts.com is the absolute best.

[rowdie]

Have you tried the idle adjustment screw? If the idle won't come down with it there is an air leak. 105 is a little warm but not dangerously so.

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

Rowdie:

I have tried the idle adjustment screw. It makes very little differenece. If I screw it all the way in, I still have the fast idle but not quite as bad. Where is the most common vacuum leak as a general rule? Thanks Ron

[nobby]

I'll bet your AAV is stuck wide open. You can screw in the idle screw all the way and still have too much air.

But jumping ahead here. Check the timing before anything and then work your way through the systems. Throw some Techron in the tank ....a bottle to 1/4 tank and drive it. Best thing you can do is drive it and work out the cobwebs.

My M110 has trouble getting to 80C and I have NEVER had it climb to 90C even in the Rockies uphill in 2nd and 3rd gear!

So...priority #1.....do a coolant system flush and throw in a new 87C thermostat.

[Ron Seegars, Sr]

Nobbie: I will do the flush and get the 87c thermostat in immediately. AAV - You are referring to the Air Auxiliary Valve, I persume? Thank you for helping me out here.

[nobby]

Originally Posted by Ron Seegars, Sr

Nobbie: I will do the flush and get the 87c thermostat in immediately. AAV - You are referring to the Air Auxiliary Valve, I persume? Thank you for helping me out here.

Yes....but it is in a really bad spot. So I would eliminate any and all other possibilities first.

Again...fresh coolant (Zerex G05) and thermostat, oil change and drive it awhile and see what happens.

Here's a pic of the AAV.