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  #31  
Old 11-18-2013, 07:52 PM
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you need fuel and air to run, is the cold start injector working?

Is the auxillary air valve open or closed when cold?

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  #32  
Old 11-18-2013, 11:08 PM
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Ok.I jumped the fuel pump relay and then started the car but this time would not die if I give her a little bit of gas and keep it running that way.I am thinking a new fuel pump relay.
The cold start valve was unplugged because I had to connect the fuel pressure test hose there.
The idle air control valve was cleaned and tested with 12V and it does opens and closes but I have not yet measure the voltage when starting the car.Is that how should be done?
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  #33  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:35 AM
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that is a symptom of a bad FP relay in the KJet's
Try it
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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #34  
Old 11-19-2013, 06:13 PM
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Yes, I ordered today- new FP relay,new fuel pump(old one doesn't sound good),new injectors & seals.
Will try and hopefully that will fix it all
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  #35  
Old 11-19-2013, 08:20 PM
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ill betcha that will get it ...keep us posted
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #36  
Old 11-22-2013, 11:15 PM
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Here is the update.Today installed the NEW FP relay and started the car and the same thing.It will start and then dies in 2-3 secs.When I spray starting fluid it will start good and then will die unless I keep my foot on the gas and try to keep the RPMs not lower than 1,500.
Installed 4 out of 8 new injectors but no big difference so far.
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  #37  
Old 11-23-2013, 09:24 AM
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something is keeping the fuel from flowing when it starts. Can you get hold of a copy of Ben Watson's "How to tune a Bosch fuel injection " book , it may help diagnose.
Are you certian the sensor plate is free and moving?
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #38  
Old 11-23-2013, 12:18 PM
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The sensor plate is not sticking and moves freely with no problem or dragging at all.
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  #39  
Old 11-23-2013, 03:13 PM
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Another update:
Installed the rest of the injectors(4 left).
I started it again with started fluid(but enrichened the sir mixture about 3/4 turns CW) and it ran ok jumping between 500 and 650 rpms without my foot on the gas.
I even switched into gear and was still stabilized and pulled it out of the garage.
After it almost warmed up I saw the tachometer going straight to 0 rpms and after 1-2 sec the car stopped like somebody unplugged it from the cord .
Any ideas?
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  #40  
Old 11-23-2013, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioang26 View Post
Another update:
Installed the rest of the injectors(4 left).
I started it again with started fluid(but enrichened the sir mixture about 3/4 turns CW) and it ran ok jumping between 500 and 650 rpms without my foot on the gas.
I even switched into gear and was still stabilized and pulled it out of the garage.
After it almost warmed up I saw the tachometer going straight to 0 rpms and after 1-2 sec the car stopped like somebody unplugged it from the cord .
Any ideas?
At some point along the way either the tach began to work gratuitously, or you replaced or repaired it!
In any event, the fact that the tach works, and drops to zero just before the engine shuts off is an indication that a TD signal is being received from the EZL. The TD signal is responsible for keeping the fuel pump relay (FPR) latched when the engine is running; as a safety measure the FPR shuts off power to the fuel pumps ~2 seconds after the TD signal stops.

Quite apart from the rich mixture indications that you describe, there appears to be a fault either with the EZL, the magnetic pickup at the flywheel, or the integrity of the wiring and connections in the circuits to and from the EZL and the FPR, and the idle speed control module (also connected to TD). It may be worthwhile to do a wholesale cleaning of connections as a first step.
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  #41  
Old 11-23-2013, 07:57 PM
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Ok.I readjusted the EHA with 1/8 tunr CW and then another 1/2 turn on air screw and since that the car would run and would not stall but...idle is jumping between 500 and 800 rpms.
I let it run for at least 20 min and was still running.Tried to return the air screw to original position and then the same thing happen - would start and then short after stalls.
The EZL fault - it came to my mind too but can it be intermittent?
Any way to test the EZL?
BTW measuring Duty cycle on #2 and #3 pins shows 20%.
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  #42  
Old 11-23-2013, 09:28 PM
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I have not found a way to test EZL
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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #43  
Old 11-23-2013, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioang26 View Post
Ok.I readjusted the EHA with 1/8 tunr CW and then another 1/2 turn on air screw and since that the car would run and would not stall but...idle is jumping between 500 and 800 rpms.
I let it run for at least 20 min and was still running.Tried to return the air screw to original position and then the same thing happen - would start and then short after stalls.
The EZL fault - it came to my mind too but can it be intermittent?
Any way to test the EZL?
BTW measuring Duty cycle on #2 and #3 pins shows 20%.
What is the air screw to which you refer? Idle air is controlled by the Idle Speed Control Unit and the Idle Speed Air Valve.

A fixed Duty Cycle of 20% is an indication that there is a fault in the throttle position switch. An On-Off ratio oscillating about 20% is an indication of a fault in either the throttle position switch or the air flow sensor potentiometer.
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  #44  
Old 11-24-2013, 01:09 AM
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The air screw is the idle air mixture screw on the top of the Fuel distributor which uses the Allen key to adjust.
Yes, I get a constant 20% Duty cycle and 70% when the engine is off but ignition on.
How do I check/test throttle position switch or air flow sensor?Do I unplug it to see if it will change the cycle value?
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  #45  
Old 11-24-2013, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioang26 View Post
The air screw is the idle air mixture screw on the top of the Fuel distributor which uses the Allen key to adjust.
That would be considered the adjustment for at idle fuel mixture.....lean / rich.

Clarification is needed because some cars have an idle air adjustment.

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