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  #1  
Old 08-24-2016, 07:03 PM
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engine shot? 380SL

I was told a tensioner gave out and caused the timing chain to loosen up??

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  #2  
Old 08-24-2016, 07:54 PM
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Ouch.
Did you hear a warning clanging chain slap sound?
Was the Tensioner a Mercedes or Febi brand?
Is the rest of your 380SL in very very good condition?
You might want to consider locating a used 5.0L engine.
Good Luck.
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2016, 08:53 PM
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Single row or double row chain? Did the chain break or just become slack? How many miles? Some of the early 380's were single row and then converted to double row. Either way, yes you may have bent valves. Do a leak down test before going any further if you are thinking of fixing it.

Good luck!!!
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  #4  
Old 08-24-2016, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtajack View Post
I was told a tensioner gave out and caused the timing chain to loosen up??
And were you told anything else? Do you have any other information to bring forward? Your statement/question above is rather thin gruel.
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  #5  
Old 08-24-2016, 09:49 PM
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Has 115K on it now. I bought it 2yrs ago from 2nd owner, and she's had it for years. I have all past records on it, and Mercedes converted to double chain when it had 30K on it, at N/C. As I said, I have all the service records. The 2 valve covers were removed by a German mechanic yesterday, and showed me pictures of what he said were bent valves. The novice that I am, I had no idea what I was looking at. So, I'm here looking for any help, info, advice, that I can find. I'm 80, and have always wanted one these. I also don't have a lot of money. Any advice would br greatly appreciated! Jack
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  #6  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwmoser View Post
Ouch.
Did you hear a warning clanging chain slap sound?
Was the Tensioner a Mercedes or Febi brand?
Is the rest of your 380SL in very very good condition?
You might want to consider locating a used 5.0L engine.
Good Luck.
Heard nothing. Mercedes tensioner. Very good condition. I bought it 2 yrs ago from 2nd owner. 115K today. Mercedes changed to double timing chain @ 30K. @ N/C. I have all original service records. Has both tops. I had a new soft top installed 6 mths. Tires are new. I took it to a very favorite Mercedes technician here. He replaced the antenae mast, He then flushed out the radiator, block, etc. Started it up, and this happened. I drove it to him on the freeway, 25 mile, purring like a kitten. All he did was drive it 30 feet into his garage, and did the above work. Then boom!!!
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
Single row or double row chain? Did the chain break or just become slack? How many miles? Some of the early 380's were single row and then converted to double row. Either way, yes you may have bent valves. Do a leak down test before going any further if you are thinking of fixing it.

Good luck!!!
What's a leak down test?
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtajack View Post
Heard nothing. Mercedes tensioner. Very good condition. I bought it 2 yrs ago from 2nd owner. 115K today. Mercedes changed to double timing chain @ 30K. @ N/C. I have all original service records. Has both tops. I had a new soft top installed 6 mths. Tires are new. I took it to a very favorite Mercedes technician here. He replaced the antenae mast, He then flushed out the radiator, block, etc. Started it up, and this happened. I drove it to him on the freeway, 25 mile, purring like a kitten. All he did was drive it 30 feet into his garage, and did the above work. Then boom!!!
Is the 5.OL engine compatible w/ 82 380SL, and why would this be a good choice? Please remember, I'm a novice at this, and looking for all the good advice I can find! THANKS!!
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  #9  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:59 PM
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Your comments about the 5.0 are true. 5.0 should be an easy conversion, but sometimes nobody wants a conversion. It's easier to maintain a stock vehicle. A running 380 engine shouldn't be too hard to find either. W126 380se cars b's any 380sl or 380slc should work. I happen to have swapped a 380slc parts car to rwd4evr who has since made the car run and drive, but unfortunately with no exhaust. So it's quite loud. He is willing to sell the engine, and I would think he could even manage strapping it to a pallet for shipping. I think the last number he was seeking for the engine and trans was $1500. So keep that in your pocket as an option.

Since the engine went kaput in your mechanic's hands, I think he should give you a good discount on the installation of a replacement engine.

And you don't want to use a febi tensioner.
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  #10  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzi View Post
Your comments about the 5.0 are true. 5.0 should be an easy conversion, but sometimes nobody wants a conversion. It's easier to maintain a stock vehicle. A running 380 engine shouldn't be too hard to find either. W126 380se cars b's any 380sl or 380slc should work. I happen to have swapped a 380slc parts car to rwd4evr who has since made the car run and drive, but unfortunately with no exhaust. So it's quite loud. He is willing to sell the engine, and I would think he could even manage strapping it to a pallet for shipping. I think the last number he was seeking for the engine and trans was $1500. So keep that in your pocket as an option.

Since the engine went kaput in your mechanic's hands, I think he should give you a good discount on the installation of a replacement engine.

And you don't want to use a febi tensioner.
Thanks! Any idea on the engine?
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  #11  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzi View Post
Your comments about the 5.0 are true. 5.0 should be an easy conversion, but sometimes nobody wants a conversion. It's easier to maintain a stock vehicle. A running 380 engine shouldn't be too hard to find either. W126 380se cars b's any 380sl or 380slc should work. I happen to have swapped a 380slc parts car to rwd4evr who has since made the car run and drive, but unfortunately with no exhaust. So it's quite loud. He is willing to sell the engine, and I would think he could even manage strapping it to a pallet for shipping. I think the last number he was seeking for the engine and trans was $1500. So keep that in your pocket as an option.

Since the engine went kaput in your mechanic's hands, I think he should give you a good discount on the installation of a replacement engine.

And you don't want to use a febi tensioner.
Thanks! Any idea on the engine? MILES on the engine.
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtajack View Post
Thanks! Any idea on the engine?
1) Are you able to describe what was shown to you in the photos of "bent valves"?
2) What were the circumstances that only photos were shown to you, rather than having the actual evidence pointed out to you, i.e., having the mechanic and you stand by the car as the mech shows you the evidence?

3)If you consider exchanging the engine, a 4.2L (420 SEL) engine will use your existing exhaust system. A 5.0L engine will require an exhaust system from either a 500SL or a 560SL; the bolt patterns on the heads are different, and the block height & width is greater.
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2016, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
1) Are you able to describe what was shown to you in the photos of "bent valves"?
2) What were the circumstances that only photos were shown to you, rather than having the actual evidence pointed out to you, i.e., having the mechanic and you stand by the car as the mech shows you the evidence?

3)If you consider exchanging the engine, a 4.2L (420 SEL) engine will use your existing exhaust system. A 5.0L engine will require an exhaust system from either a 500SL or a 560SL; the bolt patterns on the heads are different, and the block height & width is greater.
Yes, I would consider any options that are availale to me, to get this beauty back on the road again , just for our pleasure driving.
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2016, 01:01 AM
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A leak down test puts air with the pressure measured into each cylinder through the spark plug hole and determines a percentage of leakage inside the cylinder. More than 10% isn't good. It also lets you know where the leak is by where the air leaks out from e.g. the exhaust or intake due to a burnt or bent valve and/or the crankcase/valve cover area.

If your mechanic can see bent valves then a leakdown test is pointless because that is where the air will leak from. The benefit to doing a leak down test is provides a better picture of what you can expect before tearing into engine instead of pulling it apart to determine it is more than you want to do.

It sounds as though you need an expensive valve job and timing chain replacement with new chain guides and tensioner. This should only be done by an experienced technician. A good used engine would probably cost less but not be original to the car if that is of concern to you.

Good luck and please keep us posted...
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:24 AM
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Hey Bertajack, when was the Engine converted to Dual Row Timing Chain?

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