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#16
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Actually, I am not sure where the adjustment is. I believe it is on the bottom because you have to come up from below with a pair of special tools AND you need to remove the pitman arm.
I looked from below and could not even see it with the arm on. So I thought "Hmm ... disconnect drag link and tie rod, remove pitman arm, buy two special tools, not much more trouble to just replace the damn thing..." If anyone wants the adjustment procedure from the CD, send me an email.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#17
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The adjustment is on the 'top' of the box. You have to unscrew the nut and inside it is a set screw. Loosen the nut and hold it with the wrench. Then take an allen wrench to turn the set screw counter-clockwise. Then hold the set screw in place while tightening the nut down.
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Don '85 500SL (Euro) - 186,000 w/a complete restoration and engine rebuild at 154,000 '95 C280 - 174,000 |
#18
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Thanks Don.
Is the nut readily adjustable from the top or must components be removed? Also is the pic that I posted earlier in the thread inaccurate? There doesn't see to be a nut at the top of the unit.....if indeed it's sitting upright. Also, should one adjust in increments (say 1/4 turn), tighten and then test for play...repeat if neccessary? Or should another technique be employed?
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Rick '85 380 SL (sold) '85 Carrera Flatnose '71 280 SL Signal Red/Cognac |
#19
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Rick,
The box you posted picture of is different than the one on my automobiles. I'm guessing it's not the one on your SL either. Suppose I could be wrong, but it's definitely different than the one on mine. As to having to remove components...you don't have to remove components on the 123 in order to make the adjustment. As mentioned previously, the 500SL I have has absolutely no room to get a wrench on to hold the nut, much less to get the allen wrench in the set screw. So, you have to jack the engine up enough to give clearance to make the adjustment. I've not looked under the hood of a 380SL to see what that set up looks like. Perhaps someone else here can lend their insight. When making the adjustment you need to break the nut loose from the box while holding the set screw in place. Then you can turn counterclockwise till you meet slight resistance. If you go too far, then the steering wheel will not return to center on its own when cornering. You'll have to manually straighten it back up. So, it's easy to see when you've gone too far and have to back the adjustment off. Hope this helps.
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Don '85 500SL (Euro) - 186,000 w/a complete restoration and engine rebuild at 154,000 '95 C280 - 174,000 |
#20
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The picture shows the box on it's side - the side that bolts to the frame in a vertical position. The big gear faces down - that's where the pitman arm attatches - and the small gear faces the back and that is where the steering coupling connects.
I don't think that's a 380SL box. I am almost certain the 380SL adjusts from the bottom and that's why you have to take the arm off. Email me if you want the procedure.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#21
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Don and Chuck thanks again....When I get my new wheels in I'll get the car on a lift. I'll use the information you've provided and post back here with my experience. I'll also take pics.
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Rick '85 380 SL (sold) '85 Carrera Flatnose '71 280 SL Signal Red/Cognac |
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