'92 300SL Brakes go to floor!!

[Marc-1]

It's that time of year and I took my baby out of hibernation. I have a 1992 300SL.
Everything worked pefect except the brakes go right to the floor!!
No leaks, however the brakes were worked on before and someone told me that they were not bled correctly at that time. I always felt a little shutter like the abs when it activates. Is there a tool to hold the piston in neutral while the pedal is applied in order to bleed these brakes? In my thoughts and what I'm trying to explain is on a 1992 S-10 Chevy Blazer a device is attached to the master cylinder (in place of the brake fluid cover) and 5 to 15 psi is applied to the atmosphere above the brake fluid. This pushes the fluid through the master and though the ABS system, with the right rear bleeder open. These brakes CAN NOT be bled using the pedal method!! What proceedure should I use for my car? Last year at 10 MPH to stop I could feel a thumping and the rotors have zero to .010" T.I.R. (all four). The pads are as new and the bearings are tight.
WHAT DO I DO???

[RickM]

Marc,

I've heard nothing but worship for the Motive Power Bleeder. And this from the very technically active Porsche 911 crowd.

Below are links on where to purchase and great How-to and technical info. Let me know what you think.

BTW, this is on my list of purchases for the spring.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/autocat/load_page.cgi?page_number=1&bookmark=3&model=911E&currsection=brakes

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/mult_bleed_brakes/mult_bleed_brakes.htm

[Marc-1]

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you
Somehow I saw one in a book and it was for a Chevy. It was way expensive and I didn't pay attention too well as to how simple the mechanics of a pressure bleed is! Awsome
These links are super usefull and I'm buying this system now. I will use it for every vehicle by purchasing an M/C cover for said vehicle and drilling a hole for a valve stem.
On another note per other responses and per Chevy... The ABS system MUST be defeated mechanicaly by attaching somekind of clip on the ABS 'head end' to insure that the piston inside the ABS doesn't engage and this is what I refered to as 'neutral' position or perhaps this means 'open' position. It is imparitive that it be done this way to vacate ALL trapped air. I'm not just bleeding a wheel/slave cylinder. The fluid was replaced and so was the M/C, therefore I must start the bleeding from the M/C not the wheel, but,... to the last wheel!! Now to assume... The ABS has it's own pump/motor/piston. It allows the fluid from the M/C to pass through until it is 'called' to operate. Therefore it remains closed and if it has air in it... then it needs to be mechanically opened or "a clip" to hold it open while bleeding. Assume the car to have TWO M/C's

[Marc-1]

In view of my last response I'm going to look into the EXACT mechanism of an ABS system and find out why and how but in the mean time does anyone know the exact 'proper' proceedure for bleeding a 1992 300SL?