Ball Joints - and old cars

[yeldogt]

Took my 560sl into the dealer for some brake work -- one front caliper stuck as I had thought.

They always go over the whole car -- found some cracked boots on one ball joint -- a few tie rod boots look like they are leaking.

Question -- the lower ball joints look fine -- anyone know anything about the lower ones normal life.

The car is fine to drive they say -- I did feel something in the front end -- it may have just been the caliper acting on the car. I do not think anyone else could tell, the stering box was just looked at.

This is a typical point in the life of an old car -- many people do not think about the many systems and the cost needed to maintain them. The upper unit is part of the whole assembly $$ - not sure of the lower.

Has anyone worked on the front end that can give me some imput.

[RickM]

Yeldogt,

I think you're right in saying these cars are "old". Regardless of mileage anything is suspect and most likely due for replacement. The weight of these cars kills rubber and other suspension pieces.
That's probably why they have complete bushing replacement kits available. Shocks and springs would also be due if original.

[odie]

Ball joints can last for a long time or only a few years. If they have grease fittings and are greased, they should last almost forever as long as the boots remain intact.

My 1974 Porsche has the original ball joints and they are still tight. The boots are intact.

My 1993 Geo has a bad one but the boot is torn and the grease gets out and dirt gets in. the joint will need replacement.

Basically ball joints are random luck. If something in the road tears the boot, the joint is a time bomb ticking fast. If the boot stays intact it may well last the life of the car.

Anything with a boot will likely last as long as the boot is intact and not leaking. Grease fitting help a lot. No grease fitting, consider a grease needle. Rubber bushings...they dry out and tear. Poly bushings are a big improvement but a little harsher & squeaky.

Silicon spray is your delicerance. Use liberally on all rubber, plastic and vinyl. Ball joint, CV & tie rod boots love the stuff. Keeps them from drying out. Another casue of boot failure.

[maheath]

I replaced most of my front suspension late last year. The lower ball joints are cheap, but require special tools, not the spring compressor that most other Mercedes needs. The 560SL needs a special spring tensioner. One that is much stronger than the typical McPherson strut ones you can find. You might just let a shop do the lower ball joints.

The upper ball joints are part of the upper control arm. To replace them, you need to replace the entire control arm. Caliber Motors has the best price. 20% off of retail. Most other parts places sell it for just under retail. New bushings come with the new upper control arms. Very simple job to do, just expensive. I paid $250 for each control arm.

Tie rods aren't that expensive and are easy to replace. A pickle fork set will remove the old ones. The entire tie rod is not much more than the cost of one of the ends, so don't mess with replacing ends. The ends you don't replace will likely need replacing soon anyway. Make the new tie rods exactly the same length as the old ones.

And after all that is done, you'll need to get an alignment. If you unbolt the lower control arm, mark the position of the bolt heads before you loosen them. That way, you'll get the alignment close enough that you can still drive the vehicle to the alignment shop.

[Mike G]

Mike,

How did the car drive after you had all that work done. I am contemplating a similar project. I assume that it made a huge difference. Its very hard to tell how much my car needs it because I am so used to it. I have about 115,000 miles on it.

[maheath]

Honestly, except for a noise that it was making on turns, I didn't really notice a difference. I haven't replaced the subframe mounts (yet).

I have done all of the above work. Autozone will let you borrow their ball joint press for free (for the lower ball joints).

Rich Mayer
82 500 SL

[cbdo]

I did have the left ball joint (and assorted other bits in the steering system) done when I bought the car, after my indie noted it was significantly worn. The car was a bit sloppy, and notably better--back to MB standards--after it was done. I guess my take-home would be that if it's worn enough to really need doing, the difference will be obvious through the wheel.