87 560Sl intermittent oily smoke

[ryates]

I have an 87 560SL (160K mi) that does not smoke when cold or starting warmed up, or when running at hiway or other speeds. However, it will intermittently spew bluish/white (oil) exhaust smoke when accelerating after slowing to a stop or for a turn. Before the smoke begins, the car has a slight miss and sometimes a 'shuddering' effect like the car is loading up. This problem is intermittent but becoming more frequent.The car uses minimum oil. Any ideas? Could it be a fouled EGR system?

[jbaj007]

valve stem seals would be a first thought perhaps.

[bad122452]

I HAD SOME OF THE SAME PROBLEMS YOU DID. I HAD A CYLINDER WITH LOW COMPRESSION. IT WAS NOT FIREING AND THE CAR SHOOK AT IDEL. I WENT THROUGH A FUEL DISTRIBUTOR REPLACEMENT THAT WOUND UP BEING WORSE THAN THE ONE I HAD ORIGINALY. I GOT ONE FROM A JUNK YARD AND IT WAS BAD OR GOING BAD. I FINALY GOT A MECHANIC WHO FIXED THE COMPRESSION PROBLEM. IT WAS A VALVE NOT CLOSING PROPERLY. THE MECHANIC SHIMED THE VALVE AND THAT FIXED THE CYLINDER. THE FUEL DISTRIBITOR WOULD NOT ADJUST SO HE PUT THE ORIGINAL ONE BACK ON. THE NUMBER 8 CYLINDER STILL FOULED UP. THE CAR WAS LOADING UP AND SMOKING UP THE REAR BUMPER AND TRUNK LID. I GOT A REBUILT FUEL DISTRIBUTOR FROM A GUY IN ALABAMA AND THE CAR RUNS GREAT. YOU MAY HAVE ONE OR BOTH OF THESE PROBLEMS.

[maheath]

Fuel distributors rarely go bad. I would highly suspect valve stem seals. One way to check is to pull the spark plugs to see if they have oil on them.

[bobw]

I agree, my money would be on valve stem oil seals. When slowing the car with no throttle, manifold vacuum is at its highest. If the cylinders can draw oil past worn stem seals easier than they can draw air through the closed throttle plate then that's exactly what they'll do. The reason the car misfires when you put throttle on is that the spark plugs become fouled by the oil which takes a little time to burn off. Once it burns you see the results as blue/white smoke.

--
bobw
1983 380SL
1991 BMW 735iSE

[txstinger]

Originally posted by bad122452
I HAD A CYLINDER WITH LOW COMPRESSION. I FINALY GOT A MECHANIC WHO FIXED THE COMPRESSION PROBLEM. IT WAS A VALVE NOT CLOSING PROPERLY. THE MECHANIC SHIMED THE VALVE AND THAT FIXED THE CYLINDER.

I’m working with the thought that normal wear on the valve system would decrease the opening of the valve. If this is true, did your engine have past repairs that restricted the closing of the valve? IE. Did a mechanic make repairs to the valve compensating elements and not properly shim the valve or did normal wear cause the valve shim problem?

My problem is low compression on #2 cylinder.

• Noticeable popping in exhaust
• Leak tested and escape route is through the exhaust valve.

I would like more info on the shimed valve.

Thanks